[blandis]

I will be tackling my passanger side front axle this weekend on my 96. Boot is split.

Is there a "how to" on here? I did a search and did not come up with anything. I would be happy to take some pictures as I go and attempt to do a simple write up.

Have done them on my old 928 and my s70s. Any advice for secrets or surprises?

Thanks
Brad
96 SR5

 

[olemissalum]

Its not to bad of a job. The front cv will come out, but you will need to jack up the lower control arm a little to get it all the way out. About the only special tool needed is a 54mm socket for the axle nut.



Removal and Installation Front Drive Shaft - 4 WD
Removed Copyrighted Material

Forum rules prohibit the posting of copyrighted Toyota materials...

The rule states:

16. There will be no posts or threads containing a direct link to Toyota Factory Service Manuals. All threads about copyrighted Toyota material will be deleted, and Forum Administrators/Moderators reserve the right to determine what material is copyrighted or not. First offense will result in a warning, second a temporary ban, third a permanent ban.

We as Toyota Nation staff appreciate your cooperation regarding this matter.

Thanks!

1. Loosen nuts holding front drive shaft, as follows:

1. Place matchmarks on the inboard joint tulip and side gear shaft.
2. Loosen the six nuts, while depressing the brake pedal. Torque: 83 Nm (61 ft. lbs.) .

• 1. Remove flange.
  2. Remove snap ring and spacer. Using a snap ring expander, remove the snap ring from the driveshaft.
  3. Remove front drive shaft. First pull the drive shaft inboard joint tulip from the side gear shaft and then pull it out from the steering knuckle. NOTICE: Be careful not to damage the oil seal and boot.

INSTALLATION
Installation is in the reverse order of removal.

NOTE: After installation, check the front wheel alignment.

 

[blandis]

Olemiss,
That is exactly what I was looking for. No need to do a writeup now. Thanks

I seached two different forum and could not find a how to.

Thanks again.

 

[BamZipPow]

Olemiss,
That is exactly what I was looking for. No need to do a writeup now. Thanks

I seached two different forum and could not find a how to.

Thanks again.

Click the

button if you don't mind...

 

[olemissalum]

Olemiss,
That is exactly what I was looking for. No need to do a writeup now. Thanks

I seached two different forum and could not find a how to.

Thanks again.

Just remember to be careful with the cone washers, loosen the nuts holding them in the hubs, but dont remove the nuts, they will hold the cone washers from flying off into space when they release!!!!

 

[blandis]

Any idea what the axle torque is? I have found two different values online. 80 ft. lbs that I found seems like quite a bit. Maybe to seat the bearing but not as a final torque value.
Headed to Northern Tool to grab 54mm socket. They have that and 2 1/8" in stock.

 

[olemissalum]

Any idea what the axle torque is? I have found two different values online. 80 ft. lbs that I found seems like quite a bit. Maybe to seat the bearing but not as a final torque value.
Headed to Northern Tool to grab 54mm socket. They have that and 2 1/8" in stock.

The 80 ft lbs is to torque the cv axle to the transfer case. To seat the bearing torque to 43 ft lba, loosen, retorqe, loosen, and then final torque of 21 ft lbs. this will seat the bearings and be the right torque. Hope that helps

 

[blandis]

Thanks again olemiss, guess all that is left is to ask you to swing by and install it for me.

Will post with how things turn out.

 

[SammyQ2]

How did the job go, Blandis? I am looking at the same thing, myself.

 

[blandis]

Im headed back out to finish. Axle nuts should be broken loose while truck is on the ground with tires still on. No real surprises so far. Will follow up at the end of the day.

I repacked wheel bearing, had rotors turned and put a new set of EBC pads on it. Picked up a 54mm socket at Northern tool. I believe 2 1/8" will also work.

Replaced a tie rod as the boot was split.

 

[blandis]

Not a bad job at all. 17mm nuts that bolt axle to case required the ole foot on wrench technique.

Axle nuts do not have to come off, so the 54mm socket is not required. Just pull dust cap, remove circlip and there is a washer behind it. Once everything is loose, a-arm as olemiss mentioned has to be jacked up before spline will slide out of the hub. I also had to unbolt the shock from the aarm as the axle hits when you try to slide it out. Not much else to it. Hope this helps.

 

[olemissalum]

Sorry about the socket, when i did mine just assumed it had to come off. Good info

 

[blandis]

Olemiss no need to appologize, would rather have it than not.

I needed one regardless as I was doing my brakes also. Have to pull the hub/caliper assembly, and that requires the socket.

I appreciate you posting the diagram, and giving me a heads up. I would have tore into it and had to stop and run up and grab the socket anyway.

Now on to my dash lights that dont work, just realized it last night pulling it out of the garage when I was done working on it. First time I have driven it at night.

 

[BamZipPow]

Dash lights could be attributed to the dimmer switch on the left panel. Fuse is the other thing that it could be. Make sure you check the fuse properly...not just pulling it and looking at it.

 

[blandis]

bam

Made another post about my dash lights. Think I have all the bugs worked out of it now. Very nice truck, even nicer now that everything is working correctly. Biggest issue was the front axle, took care of that today.

Dash light issue is the dimmer, the aftermarket stereo was the issue.

 

[SC T100]

I needed one regardless as I was doing my brakes also. Have to pull the hub/caliper assembly, and that requires the socket.

You also need it to pull the hub and repack the bearings, and to seat/retorque the bearings back correctly. Everyone needs one!

 

[skip4309]

Not a bad job at all. 17mm nuts that bolt axle to case required the ole foot on wrench technique.

Axle nuts do not have to come off, so the 54mm socket is not required. Just pull dust cap, remove circlip and there is a washer behind it. Once everything is loose, a-arm as olemiss mentioned has to be jacked up before spline will slide out of the hub. I also had to unbolt the shock from the aarm as the axle hits when you try to slide it out. Not much else to it. Hope this helps.

My passenger side CV boot started leaking yesterday...what a mess. Been doing tons on research for "how to" videos and pics. I have a very good idea how this replacement goes...everyone does it different. Some people remove lower ball joint others remove hub assy, etc..Question: Your saying you don't need the 54 mm socket. After removing hub, dust cap/nut/ C clip it will just slide out assuming you unbolted the axel, removed shock for clearance and raise up lower control arm to line up it will slide out. Its hot and I want the 'down and dirty' version of replacement. I can repack wheel bearings in the Fall when the weather is milder. Tks

 

[Yota0621]

I just did my driver side a few weeks ago and I'm getting ready to do the passenger as well. The nut was held in place by 2 clips with bent metal tabs on mine and once the tabs were bent straight (They are bent down to lock the nut in place) I gave it two taps with a hammer and a screwdriver at an angle and it came loose. For reinstall I hand tightened, gave one corner a few taps and then bent the wings of the clips back down. Works perfectly, no gigantic socket needed.

 

[Ibleedgreen]

I just did my driver side a few weeks ago and I'm getting ready to do the passenger as well. The nut was held in place by 2 clips with bent metal tabs on mine and once the tabs were bent straight (They are bent down to lock the nut in place) I gave it two taps with a hammer and a screwdriver at an angle and it came loose. For reinstall I hand tightened, gave one corner a few taps and then bent the wings of the clips back down. Works perfectly, no gigantic socket needed.

Thanks... I'll be tackling this one in a few weeks

 

[SC T100]

Just FYI...using the hammer and chisel method will get it apart and back together, but it will not give you the proper preload and final torque values for your wheel bearings. See the FSM for the values. They wouldn't be in there if that wasn't what the engineers specified for the front hubs. This may cause you to wear out the bearings prematurely, and possibly allow the wheel hub to move around on the spindle. The socket is only $20...in my opinion the durability and safety factor (who wants loose wheel bearings?) seems well worth it to me.