Is this angle OK?
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both front wheels on the ramps
I think you would be better off with it level side to side. That way you will be lifting the trans straight up and down
On the two wheel drive trucks the crossmember does not come out. so after the trans is unbolted you will have to slide it back then drop the front down and pull it out
Make sure you get the harness to the O2 sensor secured when you are done so that it does not burn through on the exhaust.
I think you would be better off with it level side to side. That way you will be lifting the trans straight up and down
On the two wheel drive trucks the crossmember does not come out. so after the trans is unbolted you will have to slide it back then drop the front down and pull it out
Make sure you get the harness to the O2 sensor secured when you are done so that it does not burn through on the exhaust.
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The picture is fun. It reminds me of dumbass stuff I did when I was young. Vicoor was too kind when he told you our approach was not the best.
I hope you have some heavy cardboard to lie on when you do the job in that location.
I hope you have some heavy cardboard to lie on when you do the job in that location.
i'd guess around 70-75 pounds? mine was out last summer and that's about what it felt like when i lifted it. i'd say you can do it without a jack. but if you have one, why not just use it. the toughest part is getting the tranny and engine lined up straight. it'd be easier if you had a second person to help you.
Got it out...
Got the trans out this afternoon. I think was about 3-4 hours. Removed speedometer cable, back-up light switch cable, muffler support bracket, clutch slave, and starter bolts. In all was 4 17mm bolts and 4 14mm actually holding it to the motor. Removed the 8 bolts off the trans shock mount and the 4 bolts of the shock mount bracket.
Lots of thick black grease and the usual dried on sand that goes right in the eyes. The worst though was the gear oil the leaked out of the back. Next time I'll drain it first.
I'm thinking a floor or trans jack will make it much easier to get it back up in there. Or is it pretty easy to get lined up and back in place???
Got the trans out this afternoon. I think was about 3-4 hours. Removed speedometer cable, back-up light switch cable, muffler support bracket, clutch slave, and starter bolts. In all was 4 17mm bolts and 4 14mm actually holding it to the motor. Removed the 8 bolts off the trans shock mount and the 4 bolts of the shock mount bracket.
Lots of thick black grease and the usual dried on sand that goes right in the eyes. The worst though was the gear oil the leaked out of the back. Next time I'll drain it first.
I'm thinking a floor or trans jack will make it much easier to get it back up in there. Or is it pretty easy to get lined up and back in place???
That's the tricky part. Even if you can bench 300lbs I would like to see that guy hold a tranny up and aligned with both hands while putting in bolts.
I would use a jack. It is a pita if you try to hold it up by yourself. The best thing would be to have someone hold it up while your putting in the bolts...good luck!...and don't smash your fingers
:thumbup::thumbup: what Vicoor said :thumbup::thumbup:
Took the two big round pieces off the flywheel last night. Six bolts and the motor was turning a little. I think it is called the clutch and pressure plate. Anyway, the flywheel looks shiny with some lightly "blued" areas but no deep gouges or roughness. Very smooth to the touch. If can remember will take pics tonight.
Been cleaning on the trans with Gunk in a can and dish soap for a couple days so it's starting to look a little better. Might be fun to see how shiny it will get
Next is the flywheel so can get to the Rear Main Seal and take the flywheel to have looked at. How hard is it to remove flywheel bolts?
Also, don't they sometimes have a certain orientation of the flywheel and clutch relative to each other and the crank? Little marks or something? Anybody hear of that?
This is more of a hobby truck. Not a daily driver. Used for fishing and hauling kayak. So no rush to finish. Good thing cause I'm so S L O W !
Thanks much for all the replies, really helps a lot. Cheers.
Been cleaning on the trans with Gunk in a can and dish soap for a couple days so it's starting to look a little better. Might be fun to see how shiny it will get
Next is the flywheel so can get to the Rear Main Seal and take the flywheel to have looked at. How hard is it to remove flywheel bolts?
Also, don't they sometimes have a certain orientation of the flywheel and clutch relative to each other and the crank? Little marks or something? Anybody hear of that?
This is more of a hobby truck. Not a daily driver. Used for fishing and hauling kayak. So no rush to finish. Good thing cause I'm so S L O W !
Thanks much for all the replies, really helps a lot. Cheers.
The clutch was finally installed last weekend. Long day last sunday :sosad:
Here's some notes. A local machine shop resurfaced the flywheel and it came out real nice. About $50.
The pilot bearing was stubborn. Did the grease thing about 20 times before it finally worked all the way out. Used a same size socket to seat the new one. It wanted to go in crooked but tapping on the high side got it straightened out. It's a snug fit.
The rear main seal was baffling... finally just carefully started picking at it with a screwdriver and it came loose eventually. New seal went in fine with motor oil on the inner seal and wheel bearing grease on the outer. Slow light tapping around the seal perimeter with a hammer got it seated correctly after a while. It's also a snug fit. Used a Fel-Pro from Advance Discount Auto was about $15. Markings on new one looked just like the old one.
Torquing the flywheel was tricky. Had to get just the right size round screwdriver to go in the flywheel hole to keep it from turning. Bent one cheap ass screwdriver before finding the correct angle.
Lifting the trans to mate with the motor was difficult but the idea was to see if can be done without a jack. It can. The alignment pins on the back of the motor help a lot and it went all except the last 3/8 " with a little shoving. Tightening the bolts slowly got it the rest of the way tight.
Everything else was just reattaching and torquing to whatever the specs were. I think everything is solid. Clutch operation is smooth and no leaks evident... yet :ugh3:
Could probably do this in a couple of hours if it has to come back out again.
One question... if anyone is reading this far down both shafts on the trans seemed to have a fair amount of "looseness" to them but no leakage anywhere. I was expecting them to turn but not seem loose when pushed from the side. Is this normal? Or will I be having it rebuilt sometime soon?
I meant to take it by the trans shop before reinstall, to have them check the "looseness", but then just forgot about it. Oh well, seems fine.
Here's some notes. A local machine shop resurfaced the flywheel and it came out real nice. About $50.
The pilot bearing was stubborn. Did the grease thing about 20 times before it finally worked all the way out. Used a same size socket to seat the new one. It wanted to go in crooked but tapping on the high side got it straightened out. It's a snug fit.
The rear main seal was baffling... finally just carefully started picking at it with a screwdriver and it came loose eventually. New seal went in fine with motor oil on the inner seal and wheel bearing grease on the outer. Slow light tapping around the seal perimeter with a hammer got it seated correctly after a while. It's also a snug fit. Used a Fel-Pro from Advance Discount Auto was about $15. Markings on new one looked just like the old one.
Torquing the flywheel was tricky. Had to get just the right size round screwdriver to go in the flywheel hole to keep it from turning. Bent one cheap ass screwdriver before finding the correct angle.
Lifting the trans to mate with the motor was difficult but the idea was to see if can be done without a jack. It can. The alignment pins on the back of the motor help a lot and it went all except the last 3/8 " with a little shoving. Tightening the bolts slowly got it the rest of the way tight.
Everything else was just reattaching and torquing to whatever the specs were. I think everything is solid. Clutch operation is smooth and no leaks evident... yet :ugh3:
Could probably do this in a couple of hours if it has to come back out again.
One question... if anyone is reading this far down
both shafts on the trans seemed to have a fair amount of "looseness" to them but no leakage anywhere. I was expecting them to turn but not seem loose when pushed from the side. Is this normal? Or will I be having it rebuilt sometime soon?I meant to take it by the trans shop before reinstall, to have them check the "looseness", but then just forgot about it. Oh well, seems fine.
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