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Though this is for another generation corolla, I found the instruction helpful in replacing the triangle venting window:

http://www.diymytoyota.com/corolla/replace-rear-vent-glass/

For the corolla, I find that I didn't have to remove the handle that opens the door. Removing the inside handle may actually break the handle. I didn't have to mess with the window glass aside from making sure that the window is all the way open. For 1999 corolla, it was difficult if not impossible to unplug the power, so I didn't do it. If you really wanted to, you might as well take out the key so there's no way to accidentally open / close the window.
 

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They don't sell it by a set. Today is 6/3/2013 at Autozone sells EACH Duralast rotor for 1999 corolla for $39.99 each rotor, 2 year warranty. Kragon sells it for $30 each rotor. I am not sure if it's better to have mechanic sand the rotor down to evenness or to buy new rotor.
Resurfacing rotors are for rotors that are not smooth. Like a slightly warped set. This is only doable if they prematurely become unusable. Only if there is enough material to grind them down evenly. You can buy a pair of front rotors for less than $40 shipped on ebay from decent manufactures like EBC. Don't slam down on the brake pedal and break the rotors in properly. Also allow them to warm up properly for each use and they won't warp on you.
 

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When ipress hard on the brake, it seams to me that the pedal vibrates. It appears randomly and my 2000 vorolla doesnt have abs. could the rotors be warped in this instance or is it just the cause there is no abs,? so far all my prev cars had abs so dont know if it norma
 

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95&01 rolla 07 camry
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This thread puts out.

Whats the deal with all the spring sets. Are you supposed to run those on stock struts? Any coilovers under 300?



Has anyone swapped/retrofitted different factory seats or steering wheels in the car yet? Leather? Newer steering wheels with wood trim?
I just swapped my 2001 corolla LE steering wheel to a 2002 Corolla S steering wheel from junkyard, it is a plug and play, nothing need to change, just take the old wheel off, plug the new one, and thats it.

here's the pic
 

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Beware of pigs
Little Pig
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2,433 Posts
Use a set of these:

Spark plug type:

DENSO SK16R11 or
NGK IFR5A11

Spark plug gap, mm(in.):
1.1 (0.043

these are the factory recommended plugs for the 2001 corolla
These are Iridium plugs for 2000+ with coil on plug.

98-99 uses copper twin ground electrode plugs:
Denso K16TR11
NGK BKR5EKB-11
 

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- Does anyone know how the mileage is stored on these cars? If you do a cluster swap will it read out original mileage or the mileage of the new cluster?


- Also what is the deal with these ECUs? Can you swap them plug and play or do they need to be aligned?

For my purposes im focused on the 8.0 corollas but for the purpose of this thread it might be helpful to include the 00-02 cars with this information.


- As for injectors does anyone know the flow rating of the stock injectors? 15lbs/hr or something?
 

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hello forum members, i have a corolla 98 and besides some mechanicals issues will talk on later, the problem is the interior door handles break often even the back seat doors ones , eventhough barely no one rides in the back very often , ( strange the ones in the front eventhough they also break are used more and last a bit longer than the ones in the back which are used barely :p ).

Would like to know if there is any subsitute lets say metal type interior handles for this car ? have looked the internet but have only seen the stock ones :( , so knowing you memeber like well love : D , to make modifications and upgrades would like to know if these type of handle exist or do we have to stick to the "frequent" breaking ones ?


the other issue would like to hear have your point of view and sugestion/advice is on the following:

i've had these car since 1998 and besides the breaking interior handles and ohh yes the exterior ones also ;) , this car has been great car , handling and good ride, but recently some mechanical issues have emerged:

radiator leek - need to change radiator

leak and losing power steering fluid and jittery movement of steering wheel-
( car has been aligned and new tires , balalnced installed ) - need to change rack and pinion complete

front hood paint went away :( is basicly on the factory primer - need to paint it

front lower part of bumper is cracked - need to paint and repair it

side rear view mirrors are half broken at the part joins with the car ( beacuse sometimes when in reverse dont know why garage doors get in the way : P ) have to change them - by the way are there any folding type side rear view mirrors that could be used for this car , would also apreciate if so you let me know .


interior is ok : )




so upon all have mentioned here well some people have told me to buy a new car : / , i know cars look great and many good features ( techno and safety ) , but well would like your point of view -advice- suggestion-recomendations

uppon as if is it budget wise to fix this things and keep the car or would it be to costly and a new car could be a more budget economic option ?


p.s. have read about the new cars and mostly if not all have
electric power steering and i like my hydraulic steering it goes where i want and when i want : D , that is something will be not be available on the new cars : (


so will be waiting your posts and thanks in advanced : )


 

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99 Corolla GT-S
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141 Posts
I have something to add,
ae101 and zze110 chasis is 90% the exact same, fuse boxes, holes for things, connectors for things all reside mostly in the same place. Its been stated that suspension is interchangable, so are engines.
I understand people consider 2ZZGE swap in these because they house a 1ZZ, but for typically at least a third less and almost the same performance a 4AGE blacktop (or 4age of any kind, 4AGZE would be the best alternative) can be done with no fabrication. You need the engine and trans mounts from an ae101(93-97), a windshield washer reservoir from an ae101, and your usual wiring. Exhaust also lines up exactly with the exhaust on the zze110, just keep the downpipe with the header off the 4age, and it will line right up for you or a mechanic to weld. The only other difference is the tachometer, if wired properlly the tach will get signal, but as 1zz has coil over plug and 4age's do not, you will show idle at between 3 to 5000rpm and sit pinned at 8000rpm most of the time. A solution is a cleverly placed tach infront of this on on the cluster for a nice clean non ricer look, or a dash swap from an ae101, which honestly i think would be worth it, because there dashes are so much better anyway. Only downside to a 4age swap in a 110 in North America is Etests, if your district and your year of vehicle only need a tail pipe test, then you are in luck, just make sure you have a cat and you should pass flying colours. IF your car gets etested where u live with OBD2/computer plug in testing only, there will be a problem, as a 4age doesnt care about obd2, and it doesnt have it. It does have OBD1. As will most JDM engines, so if you get your 2zz from japan you could be in the same boat anyway.
Moving on from what should be obvious etesting knowledge, other engines: 4EFTE/Starlet 1.3l turbo motor; Nice and cheap, easy to find, and mounted with a c52 and lSD, its got the strongest C series box, with a boost controller and trickery you can run 16-20psi at 200hp+ pull mid 13`s in the quarter mile and have a daily driver that will make you laugh all day long. Tercel engine mounts are needed, make no mistake, this walks over any 2zz or 4age, enough torque to break tires lose in 1st and 2nd.... and can launch in 2nd gear.
Any S engines, 3sge Beams or 3sgte, pully side rav4 engine mount is needed, use A series engine mounts for the rest, Exhaust will line up, axles from mr2 or 89 Celica GTS. A redtop beams or a 3sgte are also both better candidates than a 2zz, as they are each less work than a 2zz and both much more power. The average Beams Redtop dynos stock around 180-190WHP*. You can also Transverse mount a Beams Blacktop(Dual VVTi motor from ALtezza) with a transverse S engine oil pan, a Beams redtop or greytop intake manifold, and either a beams red/greytop exhaust manifold or any S engine exhaust manifold, with the original blacktop beams Header flange(where it mounts to the head) cut and welded together.
Shifter cables, shifter base, and shifter(stick?) are also all interchangeable pretty much back to an ae82. ae101/ae110 have a shorter throw shifter, but a crappy plastic base, the best combo is the metal base out of an ae92 with the shifter/stick from a 101/110.
Brass shifter bushing are an amazing ZERO flaw upgrade, they dont give any harshness or rough shifting, just precise firm shifts, and feel excelent. You can find them on ebay, look for a brass set for a 02 Celica, they should be less than 10$, virtually ALL Toyota transaxles use the same shifter bushings (C, S, E series)
I use an ae92 GTS fully adjustable seat in my 99 corolla, it has adjustable lumbar and bolster, and is very supporting, and comfortable, highly reccomended over an after market hard as hell bucket racing seat, and the stock seats. Front mounts line up perfect, asside from a small lip needing cut where the trunk release is, and the rear needs the feet cut off original 110 seat, and welded in place of the feet on the ae92 GTS seat. I used vise grips to hold them in place on the seat rails once lined up, and that was pretty much it.
3 Spoke Toyota Sport wheel/Supra/MR2/Altezza wheel. It can be sourced from many vehicles, i got mine from a 98 Rav4, not leather, but still incredible, odly my 96 4runner 2 spoke wheel was a straight plug n play swap, but the airbag plug on the 3 spoke sport wheel is different, and will need to be switched on the column end, simple souldering/crimping will do, make sure battery is unplugged many minutes in advance and you do a good job with your connections, its a simple BLUE AND YELLOW< keep blue blue and yellow yellow. OTher then that, horn and mounting the wheel are plug n play.
Folding rear seats are interchangeable between all ae110's, i almost did mine but so far ive decided id rather keep the nice X beam that sits there now.
Thats all i can think of atm...
Remember, if it fit an ae101, or even an older FWD Corolla, there is an incredibly good chance, it fits your 98-02 Corolla.
 

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Toyota Camry LE 2012
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249 Posts
I have the header and yes it's a pain in the ass if you don't want to spend the money to get it done right. It's working properly now problem free after I got a flex pipe welded in and the header welded directly to the downpipe to eliminate all leaks.

btw, add this to the list for a full list of suspension components.

Ultimate suspension guide for 7th and 8th gen Corollas.
http://trdforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=32446
This link doesn't work, anybody can update it? Thanks
 

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I read the entire FAQ thread looking for sparkplug info, found it, but have question.

I updated my thread here:

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/131-8th-generation-1998-2002/296173-okay-use-ultra-long-life-denso-iridium-sk16r11-stock-99-corolla.html#post8047946

Can someone comment on it? I do realize there are comments about the sk16r11 is designed for vvti, however, I have the SK16R11 and have been running it since 2009. I'm here to update my original 2009 thread and also hope that others can find useful information for those who are interested in comparing the OEM sparkplug with the Iridium for the corolla 99 without vvti. I do have some issues, but I'm not sure if it's attributed to the sparkplug.

Update 10/11/2014: I called a Toyota dealer and was told that the sparkplug they sell is Denso K16TR11 OR Denso SK16R11 for the 1999 corolla, automatic.
 

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Owen
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9 Posts
I have a 2001 Corolla and am looking to buy used rims for my winter tires. I am hopping to stay with stock sizes and am wondering what cars have rims that are the same size as mine. (Bolt patern, offset, diameter, width) my tires are P175/65R14 81T M46
 

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99 Corolla GT-S
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141 Posts
I have a 2001 Corolla and am looking to buy used rims for my winter tires. I am hopping to stay with stock sizes and am wondering what cars have rims that are the same size as mine. (Bolt patern, offset, diameter, width) my tires are P175/65R14 81T M46
4x100 bolt pattern very common honda civics integras etc.
 

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2005 Celica GT
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861 Posts
I just completed a front end conversion myself and it's not as easy as Vamp's guide indicates. Below is Vamp's guide re-rendered, based on the original text, plus my first hand experience.

(Disclaimer: Piggy had an collision in 2003 that I think was not properly repaired. Front end was since adjusted but something was still off. Got to get my body shop and discuss. So YMMV)

------
This mod is quite involving, so plan to spend the whole weekend on it (that is if you don't want to rush it).

Here is the parts list:

01-02 Headlights
01-02 Corner Lights (I bought Depo OEM replacements)
01-02 Bumper (or body kit)
01-02 Bumper Mounting Arms
(bought mine from dealer, $16 each)
01-02 bumper Mounting Bracket (goes behind metal bumper bar, see below)
Two 9005 bulbs (high, came with headlight)
Two 9006 bulbs (low, came with headlight)
Two 9005 sockets (pulled from a gen7 at a junkyard)
Two 9006 sockets (Canadian Tire, $8, or pull from a junkyard)

I DID install the fog lamps :D. If you score a pair of factory fogs ($100/pair on fleabay), PM me and I'll help out with a wiring diagram. No matter how you get your sockets, the wiring is going to be the same.

Let's begin by taking the stock bumper off. I marked the screws with red arrows. Those are 10mm. The plastic clips I marked with blue arrows. You remove those by popping the center part out with a flathead screwdriver and then removing the whole thing. Be careful not to break them off. If you do, go order some from the dealer ($3.3).


(Vamp)


(Vamp)

There are two more screws on each side. Both 10mm. One is located on the very end of the bumper, marked by the bottom arrow. (The correct order for installing this screw, from top to bottom, is: support arm, bumper, screw plug, mud shield, screw.) The other one is hidden by the black plastic mud shield. It's flexible, so just use a socket wrench, and push the plastic towards the inside to get to that screw. Once you found it, it's easy to remove. Now that you have off the screws removed, pull the bumper cover forward. It will slip off the white plastic guides and come off. The foam absorber will be most likely still be attached to the bumper. Pull it off. If it's stuck to the bumper cover, fish it out. You'll need it for installation. Now, you're car should look like this, but with corners.


Remove the corner light. They are held on by a small screw that screws into the headlight. Once it's off, get a firm grip on the corner light and pull it off directly forward.




(Vamp pic retained for arrow reference)

Next remove the headlights. First remove the top bolt, marked by the very top arrow, then the side bolt. The third bolt, marked by the very bottom arrow, is hard to get to. Use a long socket wrench extension. It seems to have a big enough washer that you can reuse in mounting your 01 headlights (see below), so make sure you keep it.
Now, remove the bolt holding the adjuster, marked by the yellow arrow, and the whole headlight should be off. Once the whole headlight is off, disconnect the socket (pull on it really hard). Now your car should like exactly like the first picture. The first part is done.

The hole for the front mounting bolt are NOT the same. Where you would find the threaded hole for your bolt on a 01, you will find a bigger hole on a 98 that allows the horizontal aiming mechanism to go through. This is when you need an oversized washer to fill up that hole so the bolt can be secured. The threaded hole for that bolt are on a metal piece that is welded to the chassis which is different between 98 and 01.


(toyodiy; also refer to 1st pic in Vamp guide)

As you can see there is a lot of difference in design. ... Toyota could have come up with the face lift sooner, but I guess marketing strategy always wins. At the point it's wise to replace the mounting arms. If you still don't know what I'm talking about, see pic below. It's a thin black beam that extends from the body to the outer bottom edge of the bumper at a 45 degree angle.

On 98-00 it's about 1 inch too short for the 01-02 bumper. Remove it, and replace it with the 01-02 one. The mud shield will not reach it now, so don't worry about trying to attach it to the new arm. Or you can get a 01-02 mud shield from dealer or junkyard. The driver side is more involved.
You can also try to get at it via that long extension you used to remove the headlight, if that's what you used. If not successful, then read on. You'll need to remove the resonator box. It's held on by 2 screws and a bolt. Remove your battery and the plastic tray it's on. You'll see a gold-looking bolt, unscrew it. The first screw you can see directly from the front. The last screw is hidden behind the mud shield. Push it towards the resonator box from the inside of the wheel well and you'll see a screw. Remove it and then you'll be able to pull the resonance box down and out of the way. Now you can get to the mounting arm screw. Replace the arm with the new one. It's up to you if you want the resonator box back on the car. I noticed a little power loss at high speeds after I removed it, so I suggest putting it back on.

Before we jump into wiring the headlights up, let's modify the bumper so that the 01-02 bumper cover fits. Marked with yellow arrows are the two steel guides. Those will not fit the 01-02 bumper. The small ones ("energy absorber mounting bracket") are easy to remove. They are held on by a rivet. You can either drill out the rivet with a drill (drill works better than rotary tool here), or just grab it with something big and rip it off. The rivet will pop off. The bigger guide is removed by unscrewing the two nuts (marked by the red arrow) on each side and removing the bumper. Then, the guides can be simply taken off the bolts. For the bigger guide, try to source the correct ones for 01-02. If you have it, replace it with the 01-02 version at this point. The finger on top of them slips into a slot on the fender and provides support for the bumper cover in case some j-asses decide to sit on that area. The finger on the 98-00 version is a few mm higher and won't fit 01 bumper covers. Replace the bumper back in its place and secure it. The nuts must be torqued properly to 27 ft-lbs.
When I did mine I found 4 U-shaped metal plates that aren't mentioned anywhere. I just left them there. You probably won't find anything similar.


(Vamp)
There is an issue with fitting the 01 bumper on the 98 side guides. The guides are the little white balls that mount on the fender and ensure a tight fit of the bumper. Here's the picture of the universal fender I got a hold of. You can ether buy the 01 fender (which probably have both holes there anyway) or you can modify yours to look like this one. You'll need a nibbling tool. You can get them from Radio Shack, and it basically allows you to cut any shape hole in sheet metal. Just drill a hole in the middle where the guide is supposed to go, and nibble outwards until you got a perfect size hole for that white ball guide.
If you are looking for measurements, place the hole (9mm x 9mm) 18mm back, and 12mm down from where the hole for 98 placement is. Because of interference from the welded metal frame behind, you probably will not be able to install the guide ball properly and will need to bend some metal and/or cut a slot on the guide itself for it to go in. I had to do both to RH side and didn't bother to punch this hole on LH side.


(Vamp)
Alright, now the fun starts. Let's begin by looking at the picture. As you can see, the 01-02 headlights have two bulbs. I tied the two black grounds together. That's how they connect to the ground on the H4 socket. Assuming you already cut the wires on your current socket, clean the wires. Here's which wire is which, and how they connect:

Red/Black (Ground) to 9005 and 9006 grounds tied together

Red/Green (Low Beam) to 9006 (Low beam) positive

Red/Yellow (High Beam) to 9005 (High beam) positive.


If you are lucky as to score a pair of male H4 plugs, do this soldering off the car and just plug everything in when done. This has the additional benefit of making this mod reversible.


(Vamp)
After you are done your set up should look similar to this. I soldered the wires together, and then used shrink wrap to insulate them. Remember to slide the piece of heatshrink on BEFORE soldering! :D Make sure you insulate the contacts; you don't want the rain to short out your contacts. Secure the headlight with the side bolt and the top screw and test out your wiring. Make sure it works before you put everything back together.

You can probably get by without cutting anything metal, unlike a Camry gen4.5 headlight conversion. But I am doing a HID retrofit simultaneously and needed cutting for the HID projector to clear anyway.


Noticed that I used a white ziptie at the hard-to-get-to headlight bolt hole to secure the fog light wiring.

For me, here is where I am having fun.

(Vamp; Buurin's experience is different)
The third mounting point is tricky. I simply took apart the adjusters that were once there, and then used it as a spacer. You can really use anything, as long as the headlight points straight and flows with the lines of the bumper. Rincon and myself (following his idea :thumbsup:) used oversized (fender) washer. Vamp guide illustrates using bits of the now-obsolete horizontal aiming screw. I recommend using the base instead, for you can actually thread an M6 bolt in for mounting. There is no horizontal aiming mechanism here on a 01-02 headlight. I used nothing between chassis and headlight. Instead I used one of the headlight bolts with an attached big ass washer from the back and nut+6mm washer through front.

Since the pic shows the relevant part, I'll mention this here. The two top bolt holes to the bumper cover are placed closer together in a 01 bumper, so much that force needs to be applied (ie. metal brackets needs to be ever so slightly bent) for them to bolt up.


(Buurin, never mind the fogs and HID retros :D)

This is the final product. Slide the bumper cover on. Secure it in the reverse order. If you do decide to install the new guides, make sure the plastic pieces that slip on them make it to the guides. Everything else that keeps the bumper cover on should be sufficient to hold it in place. Put corner lights on, check and re-aim the headlights. OK, now you are really done. Enjoy! You'll notice that optics on the 01-02 headlights is far more superior to the 98-00 headlights.
Not to mention it actually has space to retrofit an FX35 projector which can't go in the 98-00 headlights, being only 90mm tall. :D
Can you possibly re-up the photos?
Thank you!
 

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hello forum members, i have a corolla 98 and besides some mechanicals issues will talk on later, the problem is the interior door handles break often even the back seat doors ones , eventhough barely no one rides in the back very often , ( strange the ones in the front eventhough they also break are used more and last a bit longer than the ones in the back which are used barely :p ).

Would like to know if there is any subsitute lets say metal type interior handles for this car ? have looked the internet but have only seen the stock ones :( , so knowing you memeber like well love : D , to make modifications and upgrades would like to know if these type of handle exist or do we have to stick to the "frequent" breaking ones ?

The OEM ones were cheap and will dry up, become brittle and crack if you park under the sun a lot, even if you don't use them. Don't worry about metal ones. Go to Amazon and look up "DEPO COROLLA DOOR" and it'll show you both inside and outside door handles. I got them in black. They're decent and not too expensive. Haven't had to replace the outside door handles yet so not sure if they're sturdy, but you should buy one just to see. Much cheaper than genuine Toyota parts, if those are too expensive for your budget.

the other issue would like to hear have your point of view and sugestion/advice is on the following:

i've had these car since 1998 and besides the breaking interior handles and ohh yes the exterior ones also ;) , this car has been great car , handling and good ride, but recently some mechanical issues have emerged:

radiator leek - need to change radiator

leak and losing power steering fluid and jittery movement of steering wheel-
( car has been aligned and new tires , balalnced installed ) - need to change rack and pinion complete

Power steering pump might have to be replaced--or not. Find a mechanic who will drain the power steering reservoir and clean the mesh screen for you and see if that will help. Watch this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FJgL71KGS4w

front hood paint went away :( is basicly on the factory primer - need to paint it

front lower part of bumper is cracked - need to paint and repair it

Just had my whole car painted because I had the same problem that only affected the roof, but eventually also the hood and the trunk. Still cheaper than new car payments.

side rear view mirrors are half broken at the part joins with the car ( beacuse sometimes when in reverse dont know why garage doors get in the way : P ) have to change them - by the way are there any folding type side rear view mirrors that could be used for this car , would also apreciate if so you let me know .

Bought third-party replacement side mirrors. Not perfect, but more palatable for my wallet. One thing I meant to look into was to buy the seventh generation's Corolla mirrors and see if those will fit on your car. Let me know if they do.


interior is ok : )
What about your headliner?




so upon all have mentioned here well some people have told me to buy a new car : / , i know cars look great and many good features ( techno and safety ) , but well would like your point of view -advice- suggestion-recomendations

uppon as if is it budget wise to fix this things and keep the car or would it be to costly and a new car could be a more budget economic option ?


p.s. have read about the new cars and mostly if not all have
electric power steering and i like my hydraulic steering it goes where i want and when i want : D , that is something will be not be available on the new cars : (
Me, too! I like my hydraulic steering and "real" brakes!
 

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- Does anyone know how the mileage is stored on these cars? If you do a cluster swap will it read out original mileage or the mileage of the new cluster?


- Also what is the deal with these ECUs? Can you swap them plug and play or do they need to be aligned?

For my purposes im focused on the 8.0 corollas but for the purpose of this thread it might be helpful to include the 00-02 cars with this information.


- As for injectors does anyone know the flow rating of the stock injectors? 15lbs/hr or something?
If you swap out the cluster you can keep your speedometer.
 
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