Okay, this is my first write-up for the forum, so bear with me. Being into custom car audio since 1990, I had my share of different car audio systems. I was disappointed with the JBL audio system of my 2008 Highlander Limited. I found the dash speakers weak and lacked high-mids and high end presence. I wanted to replace the OEM dash speakers with more powerful 3.5” coaxial speakers, but found most wouldn’t fit and/or I would have to modify the mounting surface in the speaker location. I wasn’t ready to go that route yet, so I searched for a smaller speaker. I’ve found the Powerbass S-275CF to be the closest replacement I could find in comparison to the JBL OEM speaker, in size. They're 4-ohms, handle 30w RMS each and I had an Amazon gift card for my birthday so I decided to give them a shot.
Here’s the link of the speaker via Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Powerbass-S-...=1484077905&sr=8-1&keywords=Powerbass+S-275CF
For more details of the speaker, here is the link to product page via Powerbass: http://www.powerbassusa.com/us/en/products/mobile-audio/s-275cf-chrysler-ford-oem/
Looks almost like the JBL OEM dash speaker.
Side by side comparison (sorry for the pic quality, this was quick n dirty!). Powerbass on the left, JBL OEM on the right. The Powerbass is a much better build, with a nice gauge size speaker lead. Look at that magnet.
Now for the removal of the dash JBL OEM speakers. Use a plastic panel tool to pop off the speaker covers.
Use a 10mm socket or wrench to remove the bolts holding in the OEM speaker.
Pull out the speaker and disconnect the wire harness to free the speaker.
You can use a small flathead screwdriver to pull off the wire harness from the metal tab and snip off or de-solder the leads from the OEM speaker to connect to the replacement speaker using crimp connectors or soldering and heat shrink tubing to insulate the joint (I just snipped off the leads and soldered and heat shrinked mine). Or, you can order the wire harnesses from Crutchfield: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_12071045/Speaker-Wiring-Harnesses.html?tp=3097
Connect the wire harnesses and drop in your replacement speakers. Using metal speed nuts, I was able use small screws and washers to hold the speaker in. For the screws away from the left and right A-pillars, I was able to use a small angled screwdriver to screw in and use one of the OEM holes. For the screws closest to the A-pillars, you’re going to need to screw into the plastic. It’s impossible to use a screwdriver, so I used a 1” square drive drywall screw and square drive bit. I used a corkboard thumbtack to start the hole. Because the screw is so sharp, I was able to use the square drive bit and apply downward pressure in a clockwise motion to cut and thread a hole through the plastic and engage the speed nut. I did this with using just my fingers.
Right side (I left the square screw partially screwed in for context purposes):
Left side (screwed down):
Replace the speaker covers. Boom! You’re done. In my opinion, these Powerbass speakers sound so much better than the JBL OEM speakers (they suck!!!). I may go back and use sound deadening materials to fill in the gaps, which I’m sure will help bring out the sound even more. Also, I plan on adding tweeters to the A-pillars to compliment these speakers. I also replaced all the OEM door speakers, which made them sound even better, but that is another possible post.
Here’s the link of the speaker via Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Powerbass-S-...=1484077905&sr=8-1&keywords=Powerbass+S-275CF
For more details of the speaker, here is the link to product page via Powerbass: http://www.powerbassusa.com/us/en/products/mobile-audio/s-275cf-chrysler-ford-oem/
Looks almost like the JBL OEM dash speaker.
Side by side comparison (sorry for the pic quality, this was quick n dirty!). Powerbass on the left, JBL OEM on the right. The Powerbass is a much better build, with a nice gauge size speaker lead. Look at that magnet.
Now for the removal of the dash JBL OEM speakers. Use a plastic panel tool to pop off the speaker covers.
Use a 10mm socket or wrench to remove the bolts holding in the OEM speaker.
Pull out the speaker and disconnect the wire harness to free the speaker.
You can use a small flathead screwdriver to pull off the wire harness from the metal tab and snip off or de-solder the leads from the OEM speaker to connect to the replacement speaker using crimp connectors or soldering and heat shrink tubing to insulate the joint (I just snipped off the leads and soldered and heat shrinked mine). Or, you can order the wire harnesses from Crutchfield: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_12071045/Speaker-Wiring-Harnesses.html?tp=3097
Connect the wire harnesses and drop in your replacement speakers. Using metal speed nuts, I was able use small screws and washers to hold the speaker in. For the screws away from the left and right A-pillars, I was able to use a small angled screwdriver to screw in and use one of the OEM holes. For the screws closest to the A-pillars, you’re going to need to screw into the plastic. It’s impossible to use a screwdriver, so I used a 1” square drive drywall screw and square drive bit. I used a corkboard thumbtack to start the hole. Because the screw is so sharp, I was able to use the square drive bit and apply downward pressure in a clockwise motion to cut and thread a hole through the plastic and engage the speed nut. I did this with using just my fingers.
Right side (I left the square screw partially screwed in for context purposes):
Left side (screwed down):
Replace the speaker covers. Boom! You’re done. In my opinion, these Powerbass speakers sound so much better than the JBL OEM speakers (they suck!!!). I may go back and use sound deadening materials to fill in the gaps, which I’m sure will help bring out the sound even more. Also, I plan on adding tweeters to the A-pillars to compliment these speakers. I also replaced all the OEM door speakers, which made them sound even better, but that is another possible post.
