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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Besides behind the head unit, where is the easiest place near the rear subwoofer can I tap that JBL sub for an LOC to an amp for another subwoofer?? And what colors are the +/- wires??
I have been looking all over the internet as to how I can find these leads without taking the entire rear interior apart. PLEASE!! ANYONE!!ANYWHERE!! Help me out!!

**Note for anyone with the JBL system installing a sub amp... DO NOT TAP THE REAR DOOR SPEAKERS!! They are filtered at about 120hz so you will not get the low freqs that your sub needs... soooo sucks that Toyota did that to save the speakers that seem to blow out anyway.

Thank you in advance
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks bud, but I've seen this video, this shows how to tap the REAR DOOR speakers which are filtered and do not allow the low frequencies through which is needed for the subwoofer amp. I do want to buy a component that will restore the lows.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks bud, but I've seen this video, this shows how to tap the REAR DOOR speakers which are filtered and do not allow the low frequencies through which is needed for the subwoofer amp. I do want to buy a component that will restore the lows.
I need to know how to tap the subwoofer in the rear deck in the rear window which on the JBL systems come with. DO NOT want to tap the rear door speakers.
 

· Acoustics Engineer
2019 Camry SE
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21 Posts
Nice info above. I agree that you want to avoid tapping rear speakers (pretty common these days for rear speakers to be filtered and with a lower signal level).

I caution you against running both the stock sub and an aftermarket sub simultaneously. When you add a sub in the trunk you will pressurize the rear deck and force the stock sub to move - which may not directly align with what the stock sub is trying to do or will exceed the mechanical limits of the stock sub. We've seen rear deck speakers suffer from trunk subs over the past 30 years - and the same logic applies here. My recommendation is to remove the stock sub entirely - this lets you easily intercept the sub signal without cutting up wiring and you provide a pass-through for air pressure from the trunk sub. If you insist on running both, enclosing the stock sub would mitigate the distortion.

Another benefit of snagging the signal at the stock amp is getting a turn-on signal and not relying on auto turn-on which appears to be Pin 12 on Harness A. The table in the previous post is Harness B.
295767
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
View attachment 295761

Sub is dual voice coil so you'll see 4 wires.

W=white
R=red

L=blue
Be=beige

You just need to get access to the harness on the sub to tap it. Not sure if there's an easy way to get to it though. The easiest way is probably to tap it from the jbl amp under the driver seat.

View attachment 295764
Thanks for the helpful info!! I think tapping at the amp under the seat will probably be the best or easiest place also. Thanks for the schematics pic and wire color chart!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Nice info above. I agree that you want to avoid tapping rear speakers (pretty common these days for rear speakers to be filtered and with a lower signal level).

I caution you against running both the stock sub and an aftermarket sub simultaneously. When you add a sub in the trunk you will pressurize the rear deck and force the stock sub to move - which may not directly align with what the stock sub is trying to do or will exceed the mechanical limits of the stock sub. We've seen rear deck speakers suffer from trunk subs over the past 30 years - and the same logic applies here. My recommendation is to remove the stock sub entirely - this lets you easily intercept the sub signal without cutting up wiring and you provide a pass-through for air pressure from the trunk sub. If you insist on running both, enclosing the stock sub would mitigate the distortion.

Another benefit of snagging the signal at the stock amp is getting a turn-on signal and not relying on auto turn-on which appears to be Pin 12 on Harness A. The table in the previous post is Harness B.
View attachment 295767
Nice info above. I agree that you want to avoid tapping rear speakers (pretty common these days for rear speakers to be filtered and with a lower signal level).

I caution you against running both the stock sub and an aftermarket sub simultaneously. When you add a sub in the trunk you will pressurize the rear deck and force the stock sub to move - which may not directly align with what the stock sub is trying to do or will exceed the mechanical limits of the stock sub. We've seen rear deck speakers suffer from trunk subs over the past 30 years - and the same logic applies here. My recommendation is to remove the stock sub entirely - this lets you easily intercept the sub signal without cutting up wiring and you provide a pass-through for air pressure from the trunk sub. If you insist on running both, enclosing the stock sub would mitigate the distortion.

Another benefit of snagging the signal at the stock amp is getting a turn-on signal and not relying on auto turn-on which appears to be Pin 12 on Harness A. The table in the previous post is Harness B.
View attachment 295767
Thank you for your input!! So if I enclose the stock sub with a shallow baffle would that harm that JBL sub since it is a free-air sub??
 

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I highly recommend tapping into one front speaker and one subwoofer output. I initially only tapped into the subwoofer; gave terrible bass from my sub.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I tapped the signals for the LOC from the sub and also the front door from the JBL amp output to those speakers.
The sound from my Fosgate R500X1D and Sundown 10" sounds AMAZING!!
Thank u all for your help.. Now I have another problem.... Rear deck rattle!!! LOL!!
 

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View attachment 295761

Sub is dual voice coil so you'll see 4 wires.

W=white
R=red

L=blue
Be=beige

You just need to get access to the harness on the sub to tap it. Not sure if there's an easy way to get to it though. The easiest way is probably to tap it from the jbl amp under the driver seat.

View attachment 295764
Thanks for the diagram man. I was searching everywhere for this!
 

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40 Posts
So I ordered the TacoTunes add a sub wiring harness. The wires from the new harness come from the rear speakers.

I thought the rear speakers from the head unit were filtered, that’s why I purchased the harness from TT’s.

Does anyone know ?
 

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These forums are a bit quiet, lol.

I spoke to TacoTunes via text and they said their amp would resolve that issue? I did not purchase the amp, only the add a sub harness... (that was our text)

So I’ve spliced up the NEW TacoTunes wiring harness to feed from the front speakers output.

A bit disappointed in their product and after their text response (about the amp), they would not respond after that.
 

· Acoustics Engineer
2019 Camry SE
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21 Posts
These forums are a bit quiet, lol.

I spoke to TacoTunes via text and they said their amp would resolve that issue? I did not purchase the amp, only the add a sub harness... (that was our text)

So I’ve spliced up the NEW TacoTunes wiring harness to feed from the front speakers output.

A bit disappointed in their product and after their text response (about the amp), they would not respond after that.
We've been silent because we don't recommend tapping rear speakers, regardless of what product you want to use. Always snag the strongest signal first.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 
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