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Where's my boomstick?
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Kicker Comp VR's and wiring tips Q's

Anyone have these?

what do you think of them?

im considering getting 2 12's to replace my sony p5's.

would get L7's but dont feel like building another box, just built one like a month ago.
 

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Where's my boomstick?
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Discussion Starter #4
next question

currently i have a Kicker 600.4 amp running my 2 12's. its bridged to 2 channel 300watt rms.

if i got the VR's, what should a get, single voice coil or dual voice coil? and how should they be wired with my current amp.
 

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i currently have 1 12inch kicker comp vr in my camry. it is dual voice coil 4 ohm. i'm using a u.s. amp 50 bridged to 2 ohms. it sounds really good. if you get one get the 2 ohm dual voice coil, this way when you bridge it, it will drop to 1 ohm and sound much better. but, be sure your amp is 1 ohm stable.
 

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The Comp VR only comes in DVC version. I don't recommend using a 4-channel to run subs, even though it's capable. You won't be getting the most output even in bridged mode. If you get the DVC 4-ohm, you'll be running each sub at 2-ohm or 8-ohm (preferred) bridged. If you get the DVC 2-ohm, then that would be 1-ohm or 4-ohm bridged. You have to check whether each bridged channel will support 2- or 1-ohm loads.
 

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spin turbo hammy... SPIN!
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i am currently running one 12 inch comp vr, it is DVC- they only come DVC and i am running it by an mtx thunder 342 amp- it pounds bass and i assure you that you would like it
 

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I've got a 2003 model 8" compvr running it off 2 channels on a 4 channel amp with my midbass taking up the other two channels. I got a dual 2 ohm sub and my amp runs about 90 watts in 2 ohm stereo. It sounds great. I got tired of the big bass and just wanted a little low end kick and got more than I wanted but I still love it. I've never had any problems with Kicker so thats all I've ever owned.
 

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I get angry when Im sober
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Yeah but Luc, what about the big class A/B or D for subs debate? Obviously we know the advantage of D class amps is that we get more efficient power, therefore putting less strain on our electrical systems, however, with an A/B set up, we'd be getting "cleaner" power. Can we actually hear the difference? probably not.
 

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Where's my boomstick?
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Discussion Starter #10
yeah, i was thinking that running a 4ch on 2 subs wasnt the best route.

so, say i got 2 compVR's dvc 2ohm speakers. Then should i get a single channel amp? if so, how would you wire such a contraption.

also, im assuming this has the potential to be hella loud. with 400watt RMS for each, can you recommend an amp for this application, I would prefer to stick with Kicker, but i also like the quality of Memphis and Rockford amps too.
 

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I'm happy combining Kicker CompVR 10" subs w/ Kicker ZR360 amps... haven't ever had a problem with em, love the sound too.
 

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Got SQ?
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I prefer a class AB over D
 

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I smell McNuggets
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Class D amps bassically are designed for subs because the circuitry and inductors in it are designed for low bass frequencies where as AB amps are designed for all ranges. I had 2 10" comp VRs hooked up to a 250 watt class d and those things shook. but now i'm runing a single 12" L7 and a 1600 watt class D amp so it's a bit of a different story for me.
 

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Stealth said:
Yeah but Luc, what about the big class A/B or D for subs debate? Obviously we know the advantage of D class amps is that we get more efficient power, therefore putting less strain on our electrical systems, however, with an A/B set up, we'd be getting "cleaner" power. Can we actually hear the difference? probably not.
It's all about efficiency. Why there are more upper range speaker types, like coaxial, component, etc., compared to subs? When you are listening to the upper frequency spectrum, say 1000-Hz - up, music reproduction can be very selective and you can really hear the difference between something that's OEM to mid-level to high-level. Our ears are very susceptible to those pitch changes, as there are three parts of the ear: outer, middle, and inner. Each part has its functions. But when you are talking about 200-Hz and below, you don't "hear" the music because the wavelength is long and not much frequency changes. Why do some subs sound louder than others? It's because their construction alters the amplitude of the waveform, the frequency doesn't change, if you were comparing subs together. In addition, the box dimension plays a very large part. Thus, we always "feel" the subs, we don't "hear" the subs.

Class A/B amps are full-range type amplifiers, so any speakers (subs, coaxial, component) can be used. Class D amps only serve one purpose, to play a limited range, typically, 200-Hz and below. But when you are talking about efficiency, Class A/B is only 50%, whereas the other 50% is dissipated as heat, compared to Class D, at least 80% efficient. The bigger the speaker, the more electrical energy is needed to be converted to mechanical energy to move the speaker. Think of how large that electric field is around that magnet!!

There's no law saying that you can't use Class A/B to run subs through a LP filter, but you are wasting the other 90% of amplifier's capabilities. If you were to compare Class A/B and Class D amplifiers to run same subs with the same power, 95% (may be more) of the time, you will not hear a difference. You are getting clean power from either class designs, it just depends which design is more efficient.

In all my work projects, we are always aiming for efficiency, less heat dissipation, lower costs, etc. However, not every factor can be satisfied at one time, there will be compromises.
 

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Rice Eater!
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Luc said:
The Comp VR's are well built, you'll be happy with them.
Actually I've heard quite the opposite. I hear they are poorly made and blow really quickly. I had a Kicker Comp VR 12" in my car in a sealed box and it blew within a week. But I moved up to an L7 and those are some good subs. I hit 122db with just a 300 watt RF amp.
 

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I've had the Gen1 S12L7, a couple of Gen1 S15L7's, and the previous Gen CompVR 10's... and I have to say that the 10's stomped all over everything else in SQ. Obviously the 15" L7's were loud, but I've kinda grown out of the "hear me from 4 miles away" phase :)
 

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RiCebuRneR206 said:
Actually I've heard quite the opposite. I hear they are poorly made and blow really quickly. I had a Kicker Comp VR 12" in my car in a sealed box and it blew within a week. But I moved up to an L7 and those are some good subs. I hit 122db with just a 300 watt RF amp.
i had two 10" comp VRs for a whole year and never ended up blowing them. But if you blew them in a week it was probably becasue they were brand new and not broken in. Kicker says in their manual that you should not turn your volume up over half of the RMS for the first to weeks so you can break in the sub, otherwise you can blow them pretty easily. A lot of major companies have similar recomendations as well. But this is purley just speculation as to what happened in your case.
 

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RiCebuRneR206 said:
Actually I've heard quite the opposite. I hear they are poorly made and blow really quickly. I had a Kicker Comp VR 12" in my car in a sealed box and it blew within a week. But I moved up to an L7 and those are some good subs. I hit 122db with just a 300 watt RF amp.
Like SMAN said, did you break it in? Or did you just start pounding on it? Was it the older design or newer type with the surround like that of the L-series? No offense, but 90% of the time, it's always user error.
 

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Rice Eater!
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I was actually pushing the Kicker Comp VR with a RF amp (model: 300a2 300watts peak @ 2 ohms). It had dual 4 ohm voice coils so i hooked them up to run at 2 ohms. Then I ran the amp half way making sure I was well below the RMS for Comp Vr's which is around 350-400ish. Then after about a week or so I started hearing the thud noise associated with a blown sub woofer. I mean the sub still hit like crazy but when you opened the trunk and listened to it. It was horrible. Kicker is a great company and I'd recommend them to people. But I had a bad expreience with the Comp VR so I don't plan on buying anymore.
 
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