[Guest]

Hi:

I have a 1990 Toyota 4x4 with a 22RE engine. I've replaced plugs,
distributor cap and rotor and everything else seems to be in order.
However, on acceleration, if you depress the pedal about half way,
acceleration is sluggish until the RPM get up a bit when it will just
take off, the way you'd expect. It almost behaves the way a faulty
accelerator pump used to act on the old carb engines. Any ideas about
what I could check next?

Dave

 

[Guest]

As well, there is a fairly large adjusting screw on a device right next
to the cold start injector. It has 4 rubber tubes connecting to it.
My shop manual doesn't say anything about this or how it should be
adjusted. Any suggestions?

 

[Guest]

Try cleaning the throttle body.

<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]
> As well, there is a fairly large adjusting screw on a device right next
> to the cold start injector. It has 4 rubber tubes connecting to it.
> My shop manual doesn't say anything about this or how it should be
> adjusted. Any suggestions?
>

 

[Guest]

You might want to check the incjectors at low and high rpm. Sounds to me
like a semi clogged injector or partially clogged fuel filter.

 

[Guest]

Yeah, I can see how a clogged fuel filter or injector would make the
engine sluggish, but why does it take off like a bat out of hell as
soon as the rpm gets above a certain point?

 

[Guest]

You might want to start with the cheapest fix and replace the fuel filter
first. Run some injector cleaner through the system (Chevron makes a
pretty good one) and see if this will help.

 

[Guest]

[email protected] wrote:
> Hi:
>
> I have a 1990 Toyota 4x4 with a 22RE engine. I've replaced plugs,
> distributor cap and rotor and everything else seems to be in order.
> However, on acceleration, if you depress the pedal about half way,
> acceleration is sluggish until the RPM get up a bit when it will just
> take off, the way you'd expect. It almost behaves the way a faulty
> accelerator pump used to act on the old carb engines. Any ideas about
> what I could check next?
>
> Dave

I've seen this happen when a fuel tank is constantly topped off and raw fuel
gets in the evap canister. The raw fuel is sucked into intake and floods the
engine, then when engine catches up it will go like the proverbial bat out
of hell.
HTH, davidj92

 

[Guest]

Yeah but that's not how fuel injection works. Take off the big rubber hose
to the intake plenum and clean the throttle boddy with eith TB cleaner or
spar carb cleaner and a rag/toothbrush (with engine off of course). I'd
also add a jug of Chevron Techron FI cleaner.

"davidj92" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]
> [email protected] wrote:
>> Hi:
>>
>> I have a 1990 Toyota 4x4 with a 22RE engine. I've replaced plugs,
>> distributor cap and rotor and everything else seems to be in order.
>> However, on acceleration, if you depress the pedal about half way,
>> acceleration is sluggish until the RPM get up a bit when it will just
>> take off, the way you'd expect. It almost behaves the way a faulty
>> accelerator pump used to act on the old carb engines. Any ideas about
>> what I could check next?
>>
>> Dave
>
> I've seen this happen when a fuel tank is constantly topped off and raw
> fuel gets in the evap canister. The raw fuel is sucked into intake and
> floods the engine, then when engine catches up it will go like the
> proverbial bat out of hell.
> HTH, davidj92
>

 

[Guest]

Wolfgang wrote:
> Yeah but that's not how fuel injection works.

When the evap canister is holding raw fuel that's exactly how fuel injection
or any other fuel metering system that cleans the evap canister by vacuum
works. The vacuum draws raw fuel instead of vapors into the intake manifold
which causes an over-rich condition. I'm not saying this is the only
possibility but it is one, is easy to slip by un-noticed and one I've seen
more than once so it's not uncommon.
HTH, davidj92

 

[Guest]

Well, I'm going to start with the fuel filter and the possibility of
dirty injectors, but I'm still curious why it looses its sluggishness
as soon as the rpm goes over 3000. Could dirty injectors behave like
that?

Dave

 

[Guest]

does it start and accelerate as it should after the motor has warmed up?

<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]
> Well, I'm going to start with the fuel filter and the possibility of
> dirty injectors, but I'm still curious why it looses its sluggishness
> as soon as the rpm goes over 3000. Could dirty injectors behave like
> that?
>
> Dave
>


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

[Guest]

[email protected] wrote:
> Well, I'm going to start with the fuel filter and the possibility of
> dirty injectors, but I'm still curious why it looses its sluggishness
> as soon as the rpm goes over 3000. Could dirty injectors behave like
> that?
>
> Dave

If they are putting too much fuel in at idle or low rpm's then they would
cause a problem in those rpm ranges and loose sluggishness over 3000 rpm's.
I haven't used it but many suggest Techron injector cleaner. You could try
some and see if it makes a difference. You can also get a pressure test on
fuel rail to see if you have any leaky injectors.
HTH, davidj92

 

[Guest]

I had many of your problems with my 92 Toy 2WD 5 speed for the past
eight years or so.

I went back to NGK plugs, new wires, new cap, new rotor, TONS of
Chevron Techron, etc.
NOTHING WORKED !!!!!!!!!!!

I had a fairly rough idle, a bog or delay on my 1 to 2 shift and
slightly decreased mileage .

Then one day I re-read the Haynes manual and it mentioned something I
had never seen on any other vehicle = as EGR VACUUM MODULATOR FILTER.
It said if you have ROUGH IDLE, SHIFT LAG, AND DECREASED MILEAGE, then
clean or replace that filter.

On my car there is a vacuum line going to the EGR valve but AHEAD of
the EGR valve and in the line is a MODULATOR.

I took the thing apart after removing the three vacuum lines - a 5
minute job. Unit slips out of a clip.

Inside was a pissy assed little white filter = size of a half dollar
and about ¼ inch think made of white material similar to what you find
on some sponges.

I blew it out with air and WOW.
To date the idle has improved about 50-75%.
No more BOG on my 1 to 2 shift.
I am still waiting to see if the mileage improves to where it was - it
was down about 4 mpg over normal which on highway was like 27 for a 4
cylinder.

Haynes manual said to BLOW OUT WITH AIR if dirty.
It was not really that dirty, but blowing out with air worked for me.
I am going to treat "ol' paint" to a new one for whatever it costs.

Hope this helps.

 

[Guest]

Interestingly enough, my idle is just fine - everything is smooth, it's
just gutless as I try to accelerate until the RPM hit 3000 and then off
it goes. And to make it worse, I'm not sure it's misbehaving all the
time. Nothing like an intermittent problem to make things difficult.
Anyhow, there have been several suggestions related to fuel filter and
injectors so that's what I'll try first. Probably wouldn't hurt to
clean out the EGR modulator filter too !

 

[Guest]

Mines the same - 92 22re, runs better when it is first started. I
checked the plugs and it appears to be running lean.
(I did injector cleaner, throttle body clean, plugs, rotor cap,)
So in my case since it runs ok when its cold just started, I figure my
filter and injectors are OK.
Next I plan to go test the oxgen sensor, and temp sensors, etc...
Let us know what fixes it, I will too.
Slightly Annoying but driveable.



On 15 Sep 2005 22:01:52 -0700, [email protected] wrote:

>Interestingly enough, my idle is just fine - everything is smooth, it's
>just gutless as I try to accelerate until the RPM hit 3000 and then off
>it goes. And to make it worse, I'm not sure it's misbehaving all the
>time. Nothing like an intermittent problem to make things difficult.
>Anyhow, there have been several suggestions related to fuel filter and
>injectors so that's what I'll try first. Probably wouldn't hurt to
>clean out the EGR modulator filter too !
>

 

[Guest]

I had a similar problem with my 93 22RE, replaced the oxygen sensor,
cleaned out the EGR valve, replaced fuel filter, checked cat converter,
opened and checked mass air flow sensor, etc.... Finally I put a timing
light on it (and the jumper in the test box) and couldn't find the mark.
It was way off even though the distributor had never been loosened. The
problem was something slightly worn in the throttle position sensor. All
I had to do to fix it was turn the throttle position sensor about 1/8
inch and the timing mark lined up where it should be.

Q

Cregster wrote:
> Mines the same - 92 22re, runs better when it is first started. I
> checked the plugs and it appears to be running lean.
> (I did injector cleaner, throttle body clean, plugs, rotor cap,)
> So in my case since it runs ok when its cold just started, I figure my
> filter and injectors are OK.
> Next I plan to go test the oxgen sensor, and temp sensors, etc...
> Let us know what fixes it, I will too.
> Slightly Annoying but driveable.
>
>
>
> On 15 Sep 2005 22:01:52 -0700, [email protected] wrote:
>
>
>>Interestingly enough, my idle is just fine - everything is smooth, it's
>>just gutless as I try to accelerate until the RPM hit 3000 and then off
>>it goes. And to make it worse, I'm not sure it's misbehaving all the
>>time. Nothing like an intermittent problem to make things difficult.
>>Anyhow, there have been several suggestions related to fuel filter and
>>injectors so that's what I'll try first. Probably wouldn't hurt to
>>clean out the EGR modulator filter too !
>>
>
>
>

 

[Guest]

So, I am more familiar with carbed cars. On EFI, the Throttle Position
Sensor TPS can actually change the timing?????? Seems wierd to me, but
I guess the computer adjusts for mixture and timing.
I also looked at changing the computers sense of temp, so you can
richen it up like its cold with a dial on you dash.(someone sells a
kit, not sure where) Would be cool if you could get the Oxygen Sensor
output on a gauge also to see the results. (A little extreme for a
pickup)


On Sat, 17 Sep 2005 17:21:23 GMT, Q <[email protected]> wrote:

>I had a similar problem with my 93 22RE, replaced the oxygen sensor,
>cleaned out the EGR valve, replaced fuel filter, checked cat converter,
>opened and checked mass air flow sensor, etc.... Finally I put a timing
>light on it (and the jumper in the test box) and couldn't find the mark.
>It was way off even though the distributor had never been loosened. The
>problem was something slightly worn in the throttle position sensor. All
>I had to do to fix it was turn the throttle position sensor about 1/8
>inch and the timing mark lined up where it should be.
>
>Q
>
>Cregster wrote:
>> Mines the same - 92 22re, runs better when it is first started. I
>> checked the plugs and it appears to be running lean.
>> (I did injector cleaner, throttle body clean, plugs, rotor cap,)
>> So in my case since it runs ok when its cold just started, I figure my
>> filter and injectors are OK.
>> Next I plan to go test the oxgen sensor, and temp sensors, etc...
>> Let us know what fixes it, I will too.
>> Slightly Annoying but driveable.
>>
>>
>>
>> On 15 Sep 2005 22:01:52 -0700, [email protected] wrote:
>>
>>
>>>Interestingly enough, my idle is just fine - everything is smooth, it's
>>>just gutless as I try to accelerate until the RPM hit 3000 and then off
>>>it goes. And to make it worse, I'm not sure it's misbehaving all the
>>>time. Nothing like an intermittent problem to make things difficult.
>>>Anyhow, there have been several suggestions related to fuel filter and
>>>injectors so that's what I'll try first. Probably wouldn't hurt to
>>>clean out the EGR modulator filter too !
>>>
>>
>>
>>

 

[Guest]

Cregster,

Yes, it's the computer that changes the timing based in part on input
from the TPS.

There is a cold start switch on the engine with a couple wires going to
it. I suppose you could attach a couple wires to it and run them inside
to a switch on the dashboard if you wanted. It seems to work just fine
automatically though. I disconnected mine for testing once and sure
enough the engine started fine on a warm day, but would hardly start on
a cool morning.

Q

Cregster wrote:
> So, I am more familiar with carbed cars. On EFI, the Throttle Position
> Sensor TPS can actually change the timing?????? Seems wierd to me, but
> I guess the computer adjusts for mixture and timing.
> I also looked at changing the computers sense of temp, so you can
> richen it up like its cold with a dial on you dash.(someone sells a
> kit, not sure where) Would be cool if you could get the Oxygen Sensor
> output on a gauge also to see the results. (A little extreme for a
> pickup)
>

 

[Guest]

I have the 22re. mine is suped up. tuned. everything. mine doesnt
pull hard till 3k rpm either. not sure wtf it is, but ho damn. it pulls
hard... i can chirp in 2nd gear like nothing.... go up hudge hills
in 4th... mabye ill mess with the cold start switch.... im getting
my smog crap removed this thursday... and if i dont like the power, im
dropping a v6 in it. heh.

 

[Guest]

I suggest that you jump the service connector and check for a stored
EFI code. A faulty TPS sensor will act that way, as will a dirty
throttle body.

HTH

Dentman
Training Solutions Group
Box 617,2577 Church St.
North Gower ON Canada
K0A 2T0
(613) 489-2759
[email protected]

"It's better to be in the race for a second than to spectate forever."