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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Seems my 96 1.6 is loosing power when the car is warmed up. I have to keep down shifting when going up hills and it barely accelerates in 3/4/5 when on a flat surface. I changed the plugs wires and cleaned the cap n rotor, but there is not really a major difference. Anything else I can do to improve this?
 

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1994 Corolla DX
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Is this the same car that has the head gasket failure and the weird oil situation?

You have five main areas to pursue:
- Intake of air (which includes inspecting/cleaning/replacing air filter)
- Intake of gas (including fuel filter)
- Output of exhaust (clogged converter could mess things up for you)
- Compression (leakdown test can verify any issues)
- Ignition

Plugs, cap/rotor only addresses the last point, ignition. By the way, did you compare your old plugs to a spark plug chart to see if you could diagnose any issues that way?

With the history you have on this car I wouldn't be surprised if it's something major! But might try out smaller stuff first.

- Check for the presence of any trouble codes
- Run a bottle of Red Line SI-1 in the gas tank and do a lot of highway driving to see if it improves. Don't bother with SeaFoam.
- Replace air filter
- Use the 3M Fuel Injector Cleaner Kit - especially the intake cleaner that comes with tubing to insert in throttle body. Again, don't bother with SeaFoam.
- Ensure you have no vacuum leaks by inspecting all the vacuum hoses
- Replace the PCV valve.
- You mentioned cleaning the cap and rotor - how old are those parts? Might have to replace them
- Check resistance in spark plug wires

All of these items are a bit of a shot in the dark without further diagnosis, such as a leakdown test. But they are relatively cheap, and most of them count for periodic maintenance anyhow.
 

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corolla
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Two age related things come to mind-

Corolla dad already mentioned a leakdown test. Do this first. You need to know if your engine is CAPABLE of making your lost power.

Catalytic converters are next on the list since they disintegrate and block exhaust flow.

-SP
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Cat is clean and fine. Rolladad yes I had the problems with the head gasket and replaced it and no I didn't have any problems with oil. Cap and rotor were from my previous rolla and were new, but I cleaned them up anyways. The air filter is dirty and the TB is nice and oily so I will replace airfilter and clean Intake. Replaced PCV Valve less than a month ago, forgot to replace the grommet and seems as if it is sitting a little loose. I forgot to mention it seems like it has more power when cold, but once it gets warm is when I notice the loss of power.



I'll report back once I get those things taken care of. I have another question though......I was changing the INT bulb for my heater controls and now my gauge lights as well as my Heating light no longer work. the door/highbeam/checkeng lights all work though.....
 

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1994 Corolla DX
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Cat is clean and fine. Rolladad yes I had the problems with the head gasket and replaced it and no I didn't have any problems with oil. Cap and rotor were from my previous rolla and were new, but I cleaned them up anyways. The air filter is dirty and the TB is nice and oily so I will replace airfilter and clean Intake. Replaced PCV Valve less than a month ago, forgot to replace the grommet and seems as if it is sitting a little loose. I forgot to mention it seems like it has more power when cold, but once it gets warm is when I notice the loss of power.



I'll report back once I get those things taken care of. I have another question though......I was changing the INT bulb for my heater controls and now my gauge lights as well as my Heating light no longer work. the door/highbeam/checkeng lights all work though.....
If you have a Haynes manual you can check the various sensors that affect fuel trim once engine is warmed up.

Regarding the lights: The dimmer is notorious for blowing when you work on anything that's running on the dimmer circuit. Assuming you actually have the dimmer on max and still have no lights, try popping it out and bypassing it temporarily to see if your lights now work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
If you have a Haynes manual you can check the various sensors that affect fuel trim once engine is warmed up.

Regarding the lights: The dimmer is notorious for blowing when you work on anything that's running on the dimmer circuit. Assuming you actually have the dimmer on max and still have no lights, try popping it out and bypassing it temporarily to see if your lights now work.

Do you know what wires I would need to jump to bypass?


EDIT: If it is the switch, could I keep it bypassed until I buy a new one?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
So I bought a new instrument cluster with RPM Gauge. Now I can at least see what the rpms are at and I noticed its sitting two notches down from 1000rpm at idle and surges up to 1000 once in a while. I cleaned the throttle body and EGR and it ran at 1000 for a bit now its back down to what its normally at. I'm driving 4th gear at 60km/h and its sitting at 2100rpm is that normal? seems low to me.
 
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