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Discussion Starter #1
Hey you all,
I was lazy in the past and just adjusted the timing by where I had the most power with no PING.;) I finally dragged out the timing light, shorted T and E1 terminals at set it at 5 deg. BTC. Perfect. The idle dropped 200rpm. It showed around 40 deg. BTC before and ran great. I do have gears but I also could roast the bajesus out of the 33s. At 5 deg. I cant do over 55mph. It sounds like im running on 1 cylinder. :confused: Whats up guys (and girls)?
 

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Languishing in Virginia
1994 XtraCab 4x4 P/U
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IHATERUST said:
Hey you all,
I was lazy in the past and just adjusted the timing by where I had the most power with no PING.;) I finally dragged out the timing light, shorted T and E1 terminals at set it at 5 deg. BTC. Perfect. The idle dropped 200rpm. It showed around 40 deg. BTC before and ran great. I do have gears but I also could roast the bajesus out of the 33s. At 5 deg. I cant do over 55mph. It sounds like im running on 1 cylinder. :confused: Whats up guys (and girls)?
it sounds suspiciously like the terminals were not shorted...
 

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'95 Toyota 4x4 xcab
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or that the cam timing is off a tooth...

Has the timing chain ever been changed?
 

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I gauruntee that the terminals were shorted. But that would be just too easy a fix! My first though was that the distrubuter might be a tooth off. I never replaced the timing chain but I looked at it a couple days ago when I was forced to pull the valve cover. The tensioner tightens up one side and the other is so loose it almost hits the inside of the head. Im guessing its time to replace? Any ideas on timing? Thanks
 

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One with the farce
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Is the woodruff key in the crank pulley sheared off, allowing the pulley to turn on the end of the crank? I'd pull it off and check.
 

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'95 Toyota 4x4 xcab
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the slack is supposed to be on the side with the tensioner. The other is supposed to be pretty tight.

Is there any of the plastic drivers side rail left or it is gone?

When you put the timing mark on the crank to 0 degrees on compression (both valves loose on #1 cylinder) is the mark on the cam at 11:30?
 

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ovrrdrive said:
the slack is supposed to be on the side with the tensioner. The other is supposed to be pretty tight.

Is there any of the plastic drivers side rail left or it is gone?

When you put the timing mark on the crank to 0 degrees on compression (both valves loose on #1 cylinder) is the mark on the cam at 11:30?
Mine had broken guides on both side of the timing chain when I took it apart. A steel rail replacement is highly recommended when you do the chain.

You can also check to see if the rotor lines up with the number one plug when you set the motor at TDC.
 

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TPS needs adjustment. When you short the terminals you should get a slight drop in RPM as the ECU pulls the timing back to set point. If this does not happen the ECU is advancing the timing while you are adjusting it. Therefor when you put it to 5 degrees you are really putting it like retarded 10-15 degrees.
Your TPS terminals E1 and IDLE should be a closed circuit at idle or you will not be able to set timing
 

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Flash319 said:
TPS needs adjustment. When you short the terminals you should get a slight drop in RPM as the ECU pulls the timing back to set point. If this does not happen the ECU is advancing the timing while you are adjusting it. Therefor when you put it to 5 degrees you are really putting it like retarded 10-15 degrees.
Your TPS terminals E1 and IDLE should be a closed circuit at idle or you will not be able to set timing
I believe he said he jumped the terminals and the idle dropped by 200 rpm. It wouldn't hurt to check the resistance on the TPS though. It is pretty easy as long as you have a multimeter. Adjusting it can a bit of a pain, especially if it has never been done, so you don't want to do it if you don't have to.
 

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Guys, can someone point to a link that shows the connector [and the terminals that need to be shorted] to set the timing please?

Oddly, my harmonic damper on my 93 Paseo does not have a timing mark on it, but does have a cuple of places where the pulley edges are broken off [chipped actually], probably from someone dropping it while prying it off.
 

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I gauruntee that the terminals were shorted. But that would be just too easy a fix! My first though was that the distrubuter might be a tooth off. I never replaced the timing chain but I looked at it a couple days ago when I was forced to pull the valve cover. The tensioner tightens up one side and the other is so loose it almost hits the inside of the head. Im guessing its time to replace? Any ideas on timing? Thanks

Yup time for a new timing chain job. You will want to re-set ignition timing afterwards. That much advance timing is bad. I'm wondering how you were able to even get that much out of it without having performance issues.
 

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I'm still new to the world of toyotas...what happens if you adjust the timing without grounding the terminals in the diagnostic block? Mine was way out, so I adjusted it some with it grounded, and then later adjusted it more without grounding those ports. any help on this would be greatly appreciated!
 

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Bridging the terminals give you the base timing, meaning NO timing advance.
 

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Guys, can someone point to a link that shows the connector [and the terminals that need to be shorted] to set the timing please?

Oddly, my harmonic damper on my 93 Paseo does not have a timing mark on it, but does have a cuple of places where the pulley edges are broken off [chipped actually], probably from someone dropping it while prying it off.
The links below show location of check engine (timing connector).

About half of the ECU codes stored on the first & second generation EFI Toyotas don't show a constant blinking check engine light therefore you must pull the ECU codes to see if a fault is registered.

To pull the ECU codes:

All 1980-1995 and including 1995 EFI equipped vehicle allow you to find engine and related faults by pulling the ECU (computer) codes without the need for a handheld OBDII diagnosis scanner, the sites listed below have the fault codes needed to pull the codes and the instructions on how to do it:

http://autorepair.about.com/library/ts/obd-i/bl-dtcs-36.htm
http://autorepair.about.com/library/ts/obd-i/bl-dtcs-53.htm
http://autorepair.about.com/library/ts/obd-i/bl-dtcs-71.htm
http://autorepair.about.com/library/ts/obd-i/bl-dtcs-90.htm
http://www.off-road.com/toyota/tech/codes/index.html
http://lcengineering.com/TechNotes/TechNote12.htm
http://lcengineering.com/TechNotes/TechNote13.htm
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Pit/9975/dataBySubject/Engine.html
http://www.mad-mechanic.com/toyota/toyotaobd.shtml#obtaincode
http://www.freewebs.com/th3duke/22RE-ECU.mht
http://www.troublecodes.net/Toyota
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h27.pdf
http://www.showmesome.info/hilux/info/manuals/1KZ-TE/Page0096.htm
http://www.efisakh.narod.ru/at_toyota.htm (auto tranny codes)
http://www.usatransdoctor.com/foreigntoyota.htm
http://www.obd-codes.com/forums/viewforum.php?f=3

Pulling the ECU (EFI computer) codes is the first thing I do to diagnosis a problem thereafter I reset the ECU to see if the same problems show up and if so I then take voltage measurements at each ECU wire both with the engine running and not and compare with the factory service manual, I also close the ignition switch after a cold engine and also after a warm engine and compare the resistance values with the factory service manual. This technique will completely isolate your problem without having to do trial and error and it is the technique I use when repairing tv's, vcr's, home/car audio.

Most engine wear on any engine occurs at startup with that said the R series Toyota engines such as the 18R,20R and 22R all use a timing chain which it's tension is supplied by hydraulically driven timing chain tensioner which has it's oil pressure build up few seconds after the engine has started therefore the timing chain rubs on the driver's side brown colored nylon/plastic timing chain dampener or guide and after so many miles (140-170 000 miles in the city with the average 4 starts per day) the driver's side guide breaks through causing the chain to rub on the timing chain cover for the first few seconds upon startup and when driving in 5th gear and letting off the gas.

Usually by this point the other timing components such as the camshaft sprocket,crankshaft sprocket and chain have their specs out of tolerance and hence must be replaced as well.The tensioner sometimes sticks due to dirt build up and other problems arise as well and must be replaced as well,all of those parts are sold in the aftermarket world as a "timing chain kit" which also include gaskets and a front oil crankshaft seal.Toyota on the other hand for some reason does not sell the parts as a kit but as individual parts which would cost around $400+ and from all of the reading I have done on many Toyota 4-Runner/pickup discussion sites I have come to the conclusion that many experienced off-roaders who cannot afford to buy all of the genuine Toyota timing parts instead buy the chain and tensioner from Toyota and the other parts from aftermarket as a kit but of course don't use the aftermarket chain or tensioner.

The best brand of aftermarket timing chain parts to use on the 20R & 22R series Toyota motors are:

http://www.engnbldr.com/ToyotaHotlicks.htm
http://www.mizumoauto.com
http://www.22r.biz
http://www.rpmrons.com/toyotatiming.html
http://www.toyota-engine-parts.com
http://www.europeanautomotive.com

and if you choose to buy from Toyota these places have the best prices in the USA & probably the whole world:

http://www.1sttoyotaparts.com/partscat.html (10% shipping by Fed Ex or free shipping with $100 & over speak to Roger at 1-888-271-3948)
http://www.toyotadiscountparts.com (free shipping with $100 & up)
http://www.Toyotaparts4U.com
http://www.toyotaofplano.com

Other ways to check timing chain wear are:

http://www.misterfixit.com/chanslop.htm

you can also remove the valve cover and take a flashlight and see if the driver's side timing chain dampener or guide wore through.

You can bend 1 to all 8 valves and have timing cover eaten through if you wait and then coolant and oil mix together to give you butterflies in your stomach.You can do a fluid analysis on your engine oil by going to any Caterpillar and buying a fluid analysis kit for around $15-20 and taking a sample of your old oil.

Finally these sites explain the timing chain replacement well:

http://yotarepair.com/22R timingchain.html
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/EngineMods/TimingChain.shtml
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/timingchain
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/reviews/doatimingchain


Make sure you use 50% Toyota long life red low silicates radiator coolant to reduce corrosion build up on the tiny water bypass passages found in the aluminum cylinder head and preferably 50% distilled water,rain water or snow water.

I would pour the mixed coolant & water combination into the thermostat hole until full then install new stat and stat cover/hose tighten up.Start the truck on an incline or car ramps and start pouring mixed coolant & water combo into radiatior almost to the neck wait for stat to open which is about 10 minutes of idling then turn your heater on to high and hot (as well as your back seat heater controls for those with 4-Runners) and rev the engine back and forth but not too high.Re-top the coolant and continue to do so for one or more stat cycles.

Finally turn the heater control from hot to cold repeatedly and from high to low and place about half mixed coolant & water into overflow bottle and place stat cap back on,take for a test drive.Once engine has cooled off check the rad level and overflow bottle.

Sidney® ™
Repairs TV's,VCR's,home/car audio out of my apartment
E-mail:sidneybek(at)yahoo.com
Dartmouth,Nova Scotia
Canada
 
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