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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have this problem on a Lexus ES 250.
Motor cranks easily over but will not start. Thought it was the Fuel Pump, But that didn't bring the car to life.
Checked Inspection plate of the Timing belt, Its in good shape.
Checked for spark on the plug(s) - Those are fireing. - So Ignition Coil is working, along with Ignitor inside of Distribitor. (never took distribitor off and inspected inside or around inside of cap for cracks)<-- will check that next.
Replaced Fuel pump - thought it was this. Ummm Nope, Guess Again!
Formula = Gas + Air + Spark = Engine Runs.. musta messed up somewhere!

While reading a note from the fuel pump install - it said something about a "Oil Pump Switch", if unit is faulty, Fuel pump will not operate. Hmmm.
From reading a post on another forum, I'm going to go Take the back seat out and connect a Ohm's Reader to the Fuel pump Electrical feed and see if im getting enough power or pulses to the pump. All -N- All , Either one could be the problem.. Arrrggg.. *note- do smell gas while trying to crank car Sometimes, Maybe when its flooded?*
-Fact is, where the heck is the "Oil Pump Switch" Or "Oil Pump Sensor".. or whatever the gizmo is that will make this ES Car Go!

Also, Does anyone know in reference to what Toyota Camry Book has the 2VZEF Motor, so i can find a book on this thing? (Will the Toyota Camry 89 - 91 Book give me some Insight to finding the problem, or can I use that book for this car?) Maybe something that would help trouble shoot this problem?

-Added Note- might be a crack on the distribitor cap..

If anyone has an Idea, Drop a few lines.
Thanks!
 

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Where's my boomstick?
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The 87-91 haynes car manual has the info on the V6 motor, should be the same info.

check ALL your fuses, i had the same problem a while back, turned out to be a blown fuse on the battery terminal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Great! sooo getting a Toyota Camry 89 - 91 book would help troubleshoot this annoying problem.. KickA$$!
Well, I have already been down that route with the checking of fuses. Cleaned the Post of the batter and the lead that connects to the (+) side, believe its the (Alt,Main,? cant remember the third one) all those fuses where just fine, along with the rest of the fuses that are hidden through out the car. (driver side kick panel, passenger kick panel, under hood by left wheelwell and terminal post off of battery.) think I got em all :)
Amazing that I did happen to find a blown fuse.. The one I dont use, The freaking lighter!! musta been why the clocked stoped working.. LOL

Had another idea, Could be the VAC, or is it called IAC .. that big metal looking thing sitting ontop of the air filter. (Grin)

thanks for the lines, if ya have anymore helpful suggestions.. Drop some lines!

Thanks
 
2005 Tacoma X-Runner
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Have you checked the EFI fuse under the hood on top of the left fender? Switch it with the ac fuse. Then see if it starts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Fuse block is fine, no blown fuses.. pulled em out, inspected them, cleaned em and shoved them back in the place they came out of.
*News Update*

6/26/2004 - decided to try getting my car to start once again. To my amazement the car started to act like it was trying to start. Finally after connecting jumper cables to my truck to keep the battery from dieing, this gave me enough cold cranking amps to get the car to start for maybe a Minute!! RPM's reached 3000 then the motor stalled and wouldn't Restart.. *Alot of bad words here*

I've checked to see if fuel is reaching the rails by removing the return fuel line hose. Yes, fuel is moving nicely. Not sure if the Injectors are droping fuel into cylinders..*scratches head*

after reading a post about a 92 ES, Im starting to wonder if I'm having the same problem. The "MAF", Big metal thing that sits on the top of the air filter.. I think.
If thats the reason why this car isn't starting, I'd Be So HAPPY! Cause I hate My Truck!!

6/29/04 - today I made my way over to a salvage, bought a AFM, MAF .. Whatever. Big metal thing ontop of the air breather. Well, needless to say, That wasn't the problem.
- Noticed today while the car had the Ignition on, Fuel rail was hissing.. (this I know now is the Fuel Flowing through to the Return line to the Tank. In other words, Fuel Pump Works.)
-- Sooo, Checked Spark One More Time! No Spark! ... Changed the Coil and Igniter (Igniter is located under the Coil) That didnt help either. Still no spark. Am I Missing Something here? Suppose tomorrow I'll Remove the Rotor Cap and see if there is some kinda part that's needed to be replaced.

Anyone else know why there wouldn't be any spark ? IF I get spark, I bet the car will start..
 

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Did you figure it out yet? What did it turn out to be?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Yes! I found out the rotor cap had a slight crack underneath the rotor... right where it connects to the shaft of the distrubitor.
when cranking the car over, this would alow for play in the copper connection to the Cap(Spark). which inturn would make the rotor miss the points in the cap. thus, no spark. Go figure!
Also, this would give tall tail signs of a gas pump being screwed up - because of the car starting every so often, but not enough to stay running.
After replacing the rotor, the car started without any problems.

-Then! - Had to replace the spark plugs & Cap & spark plug Wires. Let me tell you that was a chore by itself. Found that plug #1 was Easiest, useing a very very long extention and a tool grabber (Long extention Right up against the Firewall and shoved into the the hole made for easy getting) Getting the plugs outa the hole was no task at all.
#3 hole about tore my poor arm up while trying to get to the spark plug. Learned that removing the bolt from the top of the intake for the gas pedal; makes getting to the plug easier and provides more room to move a wrench. Trouble was the Harness is rather large, but just useing alittle brute force gets it outa the way. Enough room to shove a wrench into the hole to remove the plug.
#5 wasn't to hard to get too, just cramped for room. with a very short wrench it was possible to remove.
#2,4,6 .. EASY!

over all - doing that minor tune up was easy, compaired to what I had to fight with to get the damn car started.

*maybe i should think about getting into another car - maybe another truck . saw a lexus truck the other day.. Sweet @$$ Truck!*

-Tekken Out-
 

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Have you tried the map sensor? My husband and I own alot of Ford Vans, 1 Lexus, 1 94 coupe camry. When the vans won't start, he usually changes the map sensor and that corrects the problem. I don't know where it is located on the Lexus, but I am sure someone might know. It's not at all expensive to replace.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
It wasn't the "MAF", which is located ontop of the air breather. that would be like the "MAP", but I could of swore FORD called that something else. Think its GM that calls it "MAP". Otherwise pretty much all the same function. If you get the chance read what I wrote on 09-04-2004..

What has been really interesting recently, was when the water pump on the car decided to go out. For now, thats another story. :)

Tekken Out..
 

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MAF=Mass Airflow Sensor. they are the same thing on every car. there is also an IAT (Intake Air Temperature sensor). but that will not cause the car to not start.

check the MAF and the IACV (Idle Air Control Valve) along with the Throttle Body.

remove the air intake hose that goes to the upper intake manifold and look at the throttle plate. if you cant see it very well, pull on the accelerator cable until its all the way open and look at the throttle plate. the back side is probably all gunked up. clean it with some carbeurator cleaner. clean or replace the IACV.
 

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P.o.s.

tekkenm2000 said:
I have this problem on a Lexus ES 250.
Motor cranks easily over but will not start. Thought it was the Fuel Pump, But that didn't bring the car to life.
Checked Inspection plate of the Timing belt, Its in good shape.
Checked for spark on the plug(s) - Those are fireing. - So Ignition Coil is working, along with Ignitor inside of Distribitor. (never took distribitor off and inspected inside or around inside of cap for cracks)<-- will check that next.
Replaced Fuel pump - thought it was this. Ummm Nope, Guess Again!
Formula = Gas + Air + Spark = Engine Runs.. musta messed up somewhere!

While reading a note from the fuel pump install - it said something about a "Oil Pump Switch", if unit is faulty, Fuel pump will not operate. Hmmm.
From reading a post on another forum, I'm going to go Take the back seat out and connect a Ohm's Reader to the Fuel pump Electrical feed and see if im getting enough power or pulses to the pump. All -N- All , Either one could be the problem.. Arrrggg.. *note- do smell gas while trying to crank car Sometimes, Maybe when its flooded?*
-Fact is, where the heck is the "Oil Pump Switch" Or "Oil Pump Sensor".. or whatever the gizmo is that will make this ES Car Go!

Also, Does anyone know in reference to what Toyota Camry Book has the 2VZEF Motor, so i can find a book on this thing? (Will the Toyota Camry 89 - 91 Book give me some Insight to finding the problem, or can I use that book for this car?) Maybe something that would help trouble shoot this problem?

-Added Note- might be a crack on the distribitor cap..

If anyone has an Idea, Drop a few lines.
Thanks!
P.O.S. Yeah I know Why ur car won't start....same reason mine won't it does the same thing...I think I heard my boyfriend call it...hhhhmmmmm......P.O.S. Peice of shit. Love the car but....well it won't start
 

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classylex said:
P.O.S. Yeah I know Why ur car won't start....same reason mine won't it does the same thing...I think I heard my boyfriend call it...hhhhmmmmm......P.O.S. Peice of shit. Love the car but....well it won't start
. I have checked EVERYTHING it just WON'T START!!!! makes know sense
 
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