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We can call this this DBBD1- wire mod.
It is just that, an alternative. I liked the relay idea that a lot of you have done but I was not comfortable with a few things, mostly cutting that many wires, but more importantly, you could engage it at any time. I am not the only one to drive my truck, wifey does on rare occaisions, as will friends in need. I did not want them looking at the locker switch and thinking "oh, what does this do" and engaging the locker at 60mph! With this mod, you engage my switch (fools the ecu), then hit the stock locker switch when you want/need it. My way is easier, only one wire to hookup to a switch then from the switch to ground. What we are doing is fooling the 4wd ecu into thinking that the truck is in 4low. We are going to just short across the 4low switch that is on the transfer case. When your truck is in 4low, it shorts this wire to ground anyways. We will just do this with our internal switch. The only downside to this is that if you start the truck with the switch "on," (truck thinking that you are in 4low), the green 4wd light on your dash starts blinking. If you flip the swtich after you start it up, all is fine. I can live with that. It will still lock up though, even with the greenie blinking. It disables ABS (on my truck) and I assume VSC on those of you that have it. All other functions are the same and it works just the same as the relay version of this mod, locks up and will accept whatever speed you want to go. Now the pic's.


Here is a write-up on removing the glove box (sorry for the hijack of the pic's)
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=170576


This is the connector we are looking for. It is to the right and up, behind your glove box. You can see it in 6th and 8th pic's down. It is the top connector on the white plastic box of connectors.



I just "tinned" the wire (put solder on it, gave it some rigidity) and stuck it in next to the top left wire. It is yellow w/black stripe. Just squeezed it in there and put a couple of zip ties on all on all of the wires to keep it from slipping back out. It stays in there nice and good. I then ran that wire over to my switch. (Yes, there are actually 2 wires there. I had a 4-conductor cable that I used, so I ran 2 to the switch from there and 2 to the ground from the switch)




Then ran the wire from the switch to the ground, same as shown in the TPMS mod referred to above.


Now to go out and play. Remember just to flip the switch after the truck is "on" and you are good to go. Then all you need to do is hit the locker switch when you want to lock up.
 

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'Coma Nut
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Neat!

If I understand correctly, your new switch will only fool the ECU into thinking the truck is in 4low. The locker will still have to be engaged by the OEM switch?

This suits me fine, as I didn't like the lack of a safe guard on the relay version. I have often wiped down the dash of my truck and later noticed the red blinking locker light after driving a couple of miles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Oops, yeah, I kind of forgot that part. That is correct. I could have put a switch inline with the power to the relay in the other version, but, h3ll, this was easier. I will edit the original post, thanks.
 

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Toyotanation
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Basically what you are doing is by-passing the L4 indicator switch. By fooling it with your own switch. (Your switch is just a safe guard) You could just ground that wire and it would work anytime.:thumbup: No relay would be needed.

So where did you mount the new switch?

Very nice!

I'll add this to the sticky!
 

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I hate hippies.
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It's been a couple years since I did the locker mod on my truck, so maybe the wiring has changed a little. Are you sure the locker works, and the light isn't just coming on? Can you draw up a schematic so I can wrap my mind around what you did? Where does the yellow wire with the black stripe go to? Transfer case or ADD? I'm going to have to pull up some schematics and check it out.

EDIT: OK so you just grounded the transfer case indicator switch. Yeah let us know if it really works and the lights aren't just coming on. If this does work, you get a cookie.
 

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A question I have is if the ECU thinks you are in 4L, what happens when you really do want to go into 4L?
 

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So, with the mod done this way, you combine the locker-anytime with tacogrande's abs/vsc play switch into one mod? (I'm aching to do the vsc switch asap with the snow here)

I'm watching very closely for others to try this and share. . . . .
 

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So, with the mod done this way, you combine the locker-anytime with tacogrande's abs/vsc play switch into one mod? (I'm aching to do the vsc switch asap with the snow here)

I'm watching very closely for others to try this and share. . . . .
The ABS only turns off when the locker is engaged. With the truck thinking it's in 4-lo, TRAC and VSC might be off... Not sure about ABS. I'm thinking ABS would still be on, but I don't have VSC or TRAC on mine to check.

You could always use a DPDT switch and use the second set of poles to ground out the blue/yellow striped wire for the ABS/VSC/TRAC shutoff option to cut down the number of switches you need to mount.
 

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I had a six pack
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Yea, you gotta make sure that it's just not the locker light coming on.I did Tacogrande's ATRAC mod, and I accidentally used the wrong side of the cut wire, and all it did was turn the locker light on and off!The locker wasn't engaging, but the light was showing that it was, and that's not suppose to happen with the ATRAC mod.I finally re-read the instructions and saw I was using the wrong side of the cut wire.I switched to to the other end of the cut wire, and the ATRAC mod worked exactly the way it was suppose to.VSC, TRAC, ABS lights come on instead, since it thinks the locker is engaged, when it really isn't, but then the locker light will come on when the locker is locked.So like Tacogrande is saying, make sure that you aren't just switching the locker light on and off.
 

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So if I already had the original locker mod done, this new switch would be an added safety precaution correct? If it would work like that it would be great.
 

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So if I already had the original locker mod done, this new switch would be an added safety precaution correct? If it would work like that it would be great.
If you already have the mod done, just add a second switch somewhere along the circuit for safety if you are concerned about that. I just try not to let retarded people drive my truck, it's worked out good so far.
 

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If you already have the mod done, just add a second switch somewhere along the circuit for safety if you are concerned about that. I just try not to let retarded people drive my truck, it's worked out good so far.


Good advice in general right there! :clap: Only my wife and I drive my truck. Especially after a dealership valet/courtesy driver couldn't get the gears right, and damn near gave me whip lash from the shift shock. :ahhhh:

Needless to say I drove on the way back when he picked me up after work. I don't let anyone else drive if at all possible, and I make my wife practice with 4HI and the locker. I'll have to do another training session soon once I get the ABS disabled today... :naughty:
 

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Toyotanation
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I've been looking at all the prints and diagrams I could find on this, and it appears that all "dbbd1" is doing is manually controlling the indicator switch, which lets the ECU know when you are in 4LO. He installed his own bypass switch.

The ECU will do everything else.

I can't be positive what else is going on. Because I can't find information on the ECU itself.

The only way to confirm what is going on? Is to run a few tests.

But this mod does appear to be a simple answer to the Diff Lock.

I'm hoping that"dbbd1" can chime in and give us more info.

Maybe he's out testing as we speak!:thumbup::D:clap::clap::clap:
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
It's been a couple years since I did the locker mod on my truck, so maybe the wiring has changed a little. Are you sure the locker works, and the light isn't just coming on? Can you draw up a schematic so I can wrap my mind around what you did? Where does the yellow wire with the black stripe go to? Transfer case or ADD? I'm going to have to pull up some schematics and check it out.

EDIT: OK so you just grounded the transfer case indicator switch. Yeah let us know if it really works and the lights aren't just coming on. If this does work, you get a cookie.
Yes, this really works, tested and all. Honest!

A question I have is if the ECU thinks you are in 4L, what happens when you really do want to go into 4L?
Nothing different, only this time it will actually engage the gears too.

So if I already had the original locker mod done, this new switch would be an added safety precaution correct? If it would work like that it would be great.

Yes, you could just add a switch inline with your power wire to your relay as a safety.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Right now, I am in the process of scanning a copy of the schematic so you electron-heads can see what we are doing with this mod.


Hold please.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Sorry, pizza got delivered, yum.

The wire that we are messing with is the yellow w/ black stripe coming from the transfer indicator switch on the transfer case itself. We are tapping into it at PA22, you could also use the next wire down in the pictures (it is yellow w/ black stripe too) because it is PA21. We are just shorting it to ground, fooling the ECU into thinking that the transfer is in 4low. When you actually flip the 4wd switch on the dash into 4low, it completes other circuits (within the transfer) and then actually engages the gears.


 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I tried messing around with the #22 wire going to the ecu and grounding it before startup to see if it would stop the green 4wd from flashing if I had my mod switch engaged while starting, no luck. But I feel that is something that I can live with, just do not turn it on until after you start the truck, no big deal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Alright, you beat me to it. How do you post PDF's? I had to scan it as a .jpg file.
 
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