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Discussion Starter #1
hi there
i have a 97 toyota caldina with the 3sfe engine
when the engine is cold it makes a ratteling sound from under the valve cover but once warmed up it quitens to a light tick like the valve clearances are loose would this just be the shims need adjusting or could there be another problem causing this?
 

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Premium Member
'91 MR2 Turbo
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19,831 Posts
Pull your valve cover and check clearances. Also check for loose shims.
They can come loose at hi rpm's or with age. I've actually had a shim fly off and crack, damaging the lifter and lifter bore. Not fun.
 

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V8'sRGone
95 Cam
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1,956 Posts
Pull your valve cover and check clearances. Also check for loose shims.
They can come loose at hi rpm's or with age. I've actually had a shim fly off and crack, damaging the lifter and lifter bore. Not fun.

Off topic to OP, but what engine and what was the probable clearance before it flew out? Maybe even, what was the RPM during departure. . .

My MZ is running some non-standard shims so I have vested interest in your answer.

Thanks!

Oh - maybe this is applicable . . . Its from the 3VZ-FE lit.
Exhaust and intake valves are equipped with irregular pitch springs made of special valve spring carbon steel which are capable of functioning no matter what the engine speed. :eek: :lol: :lol:
 

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If the shims are over spec by .002-.003 inch cold, then yes this is possible. Either way you need to remove the valve cover and check clearance and pinpoint the noise.
 

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Full Throttle
1993 Corolla SE Ltd
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6,774 Posts
Welcome to the forums! My brother's Caldina GT-T (3S-GTE engine) does exactly the same thing. I'm not sure if your problem is related, but his is due to the manifold slightly warping since Toyota never put an extra stud in near the alternator for the exhaust manifold when they made the car. They remedied the problem on the later model face-lift Caldinas. It's very common on all of the GT-T Caldinas we've ever seen, and the noise virtually disappears once the engine warms up as everything expands with the heat and the 'leak' becomes sealed. Perhaps the 3S-FE is prone to suffering from the same problem?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
i suppose it would be alot less likley on a non turbo engine? but i will remove the heat sheild in the weekend and have a look for a leak would like to find the problem before taking it to a mechanic would rather fix it myself than pay someone else to do it
 

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V8'sRGone
95 Cam
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1,956 Posts
Use a stethoscope, broom handle, or long screw driver to the ear to listen to the suspect areas by touching to the area and your ear. Stick the listening device right on the exhaust manifold, intake, valve cover, engine block ect, it'll be loud but you'll figure out what it is. If its an exhaust leak, a tube like a paper towel tube to the ear will offer direction to the source(s). No need to have misfit mechanic diagnose it.

These simple tools will help you pinpoint the problem w/out taking anything apart.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
thats a good idea i will give it a go in the weekend and hopfully find out whats causing the noise
 

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V8'sRGone
95 Cam
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1,956 Posts
Use a stethoscope, broom handle, or long screw driver to the ear to listen to the suspect areas by touching to the area and your ear. Stick the listening device right on the exhaust manifold, intake, valve cover, engine block ect, it'll be loud but you'll figure out what it is. If its an exhaust leak, a tube like a paper towel tube to the ear will offer direction to the source(s). No need to have misfit mechanic diagnose it.

These simple tools will help you pinpoint the problem w/out taking anything apart.

Ha - here's a thought . . . The wooden handle from from a toilet plunger is rounded on one end for the ear and is about the right length. . . I suggest new, unless you already have some kind of ear infection . . . :eek:

Preference is my 24" Snap-On flat blade screw driver as it fits into tight places.
 

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2001 Camry XLE 1MZ-FE
2001 Camry XLE
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1,661 Posts
Ha - here's a thought . . . The wooden handle from from a toilet plunger is rounded on one end for the ear and is about the right length. . . I suggest new, unless you already have some kind of ear infection . . . :eek:

Preference is my 24" Snap-On flat blade screw driver as it fits into tight places.

Here's what I got, and it works well. It also makes you look very knowledegable when you pull this out, start poking it around the engine, with a serious look on your face, Hmmmm, ah ha, that sort of stuff. Much more professional that a broomstick or screwdriver sticking out of your ear, don't ya think. :lol:


http://www.harborfreight.com/mechanics-stethoscope-41966.html
.
 

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V8'sRGone
95 Cam
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1,956 Posts
Here's what I got, and it works well. It also makes you look very knowledegable when you pull this out, start poking it around the engine, with a serious look on your face, Hmmmm, ah ha, that sort of stuff. Much more professional that a broomstick or screwdriver sticking out of your ear, don't ya think. :lol:


http://www.harborfreight.com/mechanics-stethoscope-41966.html
.
True! :thumbsup:

but most people don't have them so I try to drop hints giving them options. . . I have one, but seldom dig it out.
 

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I use a stethoscope almost on a daily basis and works much better then the old whatever to one ear, but i like the tube Y connector near the top and a single hose to the probe as you can then remove the probe and use the open single hose to listen for vacuum leaks, squeaks, exhaust leaks, wind noises and the list go's on.
Now back to the subject at hand, Use whatever you need to use to try and get a general idea of the area of the noise, If it's internal your going to need to then pinpoint the noise with disassembly and inspection.
 
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