loud engine noise

6634 Views 15 Replies 8 Participants Last post by ohgood, Feb 21, 2008

9422re

Discussion Starter · Feb 15, 2008

I have 1994 22re with 210,000 miles on it. I just had a new head, timing chain, water pump, all new gaskets and timing cover installed. Since getting truck back from mechanic the engine is very loud. sounds like knocking in valve cover. the sound is there at idle and while driving. I adjusted the valves yesterday and the sound is different but is still really loud. engine was quiet before work was done. also, i had a internal coolant leak which is why i had work done.

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ohgood

· #2 · Feb 15, 2008

9422re said:
I have 1994 22re with 210,000 miles on it. I just had a new head, timing chain, water pump, all new gaskets and timing cover installed. Since getting truck back from mechanic the engine is very loud. sounds like knocking in valve cover. the sound is there at idle and while driving. I adjusted the valves yesterday and the sound is different but is still really loud. engine was quiet before work was done. also, i had a internal coolant leak which is why i had work done.

Take it back. Make him fix it. If he refuses, threaten him with small claims court. He'd rather fix it and never see you again than loose money + time + face in court

From your very brief description i'm betting its:

improper timing chain setup (guides/tensioner) which will destroy the motor

rocker arm hitting the valve cover (DOH!)

rod knocking (OUCH !)

9422re

Discussion Starter · #3 · Feb 15, 2008

Ive have already brought the truck back three times because of oil leak he caused. He seemed to have fixed that but engine sounds bad. the engine seems to run fine if the radio is loud. I do not want to bring it back to him because i dont think he knows what hes doing. Id rather fix it myself or take it somewhere else.

ohgood

· #4 · Feb 15, 2008

9422re said:
Ive have already brought the truck back three times because of oil leak he caused. He seemed to have fixed that but engine sounds bad. the engine seems to run fine if the radio is loud. I do not want to bring it back to him because i dont think he knows what hes doing. Id rather fix it myself or take it somewhere else.

Yikes. Have you discussed a refund ?

If he balks I'd still take him to small claims court. You'll want proof (estimates) from 2-3 other shops that he screwed up before you go

Sidney

· #5 · Feb 15, 2008

File a complaint with the Dept of Consumer Services where if he doesn't refund your money or fix the problem they will easily fine him up to $10K.Else buy several boxes of lemon and park your truck next to his shop and contact the local radio stations,tv stations and newspapers.

Did he adjust the valves with feeler gauges?.

Sidney® ™
Repairs TV's,VCR's,home/car audio out of my apartment
E-mail:sidneybek(at)yahoo.com
Dartmouth,Nova Scotia
Canada

9422re

Discussion Starter · #6 · Feb 15, 2008

I did adjusts the valves with a feeler gauge yesterday and also rechecked them today. noise seems to be coming from rear of head on the passenger side. put a hose to different areas and seems to be loudest on the back corner near the fuel injector. the valves are adjusted correctly. would a leaking intake manifold gasket make this sound. sounds like a diesel. the sound also gets louder as i accelorate. it sounds like a exhaust leak but on the wrong side.

coonass

· #7 · Feb 18, 2008

With 210,000 on the motor, a fresh head probably caused a wrist pin to fail, the engine slap starts as soon a fresh head is put onto an "unfresh" lower end. Happened to me in grand fashion. My money is on a wrist pin.

greypickup94

· #8 · Feb 18, 2008

i had a loud noise like a bunch of marbles being shaken in a can....more prevalent on acceleration but still...it turned out the bolt from the exhaust manifold to the exhaust downpipe had backed off and i had a pretty good leak...just another thing to check and eliminate as a problem, so check your manifold for leaks

9422re

Discussion Starter · #9 · Feb 18, 2008

I checked all exhaust bolts and all were tight. It does sound like the knock could be coming from block. sound is loud under truck. If it is a wrist pin can it be changed with motor in truck?

ohgood

· #10 · Feb 18, 2008

9422re said:
I checked all exhaust bolts and all were tight. It does sound like the knock could be coming from block. sound is loud under truck. If it is a wrist pin can it be changed with motor in truck?

grab a piece of hose, 3-4 feet long, and hold it near your ear with the engine running.

press the other end against wehre you THINK the noise is coming from on the motor.

STAY AWAY FROM MOVING PARTS ! IT'LL WHIP YOU QUICK IF YOU CATCH THE FAN !
(ya i know, goes without saying, but still)

so, now you've got abetter idea where the noise is coming from.

get a bar/rod/pipe/ and stick it in the same spot, similar process. the rod will help you determine exactly which part of the motor the noise is coming from.

i'm betting on a piston wrist pin, cylinder slap, and/or bearing spun.

no, you don't want to bandaid a piston wrist pin. you want to drop the crank, pistons, etc and do a full bottem end rebuild, imho. once one part fails down there, it's time to freshen it all.

sorry to bear bad news.

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fredk

· #11 · Feb 18, 2008

see if the cam gear is tight

toytruck89

· #12 · Feb 18, 2008

if you or someone else works on it.. keep all the receipts for parts you bought and make meticulous record of the time you spent or look up what the alloted callout time is for replacing that part. That way, when you take him to court (which you should do if the problem is a direct result of neglect) you can have a clear estimate of money owed.
If you need some help looking up labor times for replacing XYZ part, let me know and I can get you those numbers.

9422re

Discussion Starter · #13 · Feb 19, 2008

Im taking back my truck today to have him look at problem. I dont thing i will have to take him to court. The thing is is the sound wasnt there when i dropped the truck off but was there when i picked it up. Would a wrist pin, piston slap, or any problem in the lower end show signs of a problem that fast with a new head. Also i did try to hear the noise with a hose. It is hard to determine but it is loudest on or near rear fuel injector. The sound is not to bad at idle from in the cab but when i drive it the sound is loudest at high rpms. when i am cruising sound is not very noticable but when i let off gas it is loud. other than the sound truck runs fine and if i have the radio on i do not hear it. I hope nothing is wrong with lower end because ive already spent enought to have bought a new motor. I would like to get 2 years more out of this motor before doing a engine swap. This is probably my fault for waiting till 210,000 miles before doing timing chain but the truck ran like it was going to run forever. I dont know what the hell i was thinking. i am an idiot.

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Vicoor

· #14 · Feb 21, 2008

first make sure that the valve cover is not too tight. when onertightened it pulls up on the rocker shafts and increases the valve clearances , which return to normal when you loosen the nuts.

And to make you less nervous, My engine has over 230,000 miles and I just finished doing substantial cylinder head modifications which include porting and milling .054" from the head to bring the compression ratio up over 10:1 and a high lift cam, and my wrist pins are not noisey at all?

9422re

Discussion Starter · #15 · Feb 21, 2008

I checked the valve cover bolts and they are not to tight. I loosen them even more and sound does not change. the one thing i think could be wrong is they used the original rocker arm assembly with the new head. either that or he is off on the timing chain by a tooth. I had no lower end noise before so it has to be something in top end. that or he did something wrong to cause lower end damage.My truck is still at mechanic and he is trying to figure it out. I will update when i hear something. Thanks for the input. i learn so much on this forum hopefully i will be able to do this stuff myself in the future.

ohgood

· #16 · Feb 21, 2008

9422re said:
I checked the valve cover bolts and they are not to tight. I loosen them even more and sound does not change. the one thing i think could be wrong is they used the original rocker arm assembly with the new head. either that or he is off on the timing chain by a tooth. I had no lower end noise before so it has to be something in top end. that or he did something wrong to cause lower end damage.My truck is still at mechanic and he is trying to figure it out. I will update when i hear something. Thanks for the input. i learn so much on this forum hopefully i will be able to do this stuff myself in the future.

I can't think of anything he could do to the top end to destroy the bottem end, unless he ran it without oil and killed a bearing. if he's spanked a valve, that would suck. if he's spun a bearing, you're looking at a new motor, or a pro rebuilding it for large dollars. LARGE.

oil starvation will fuxxor things really fast. now, that's what I'm leaning towards.

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