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I deleted my prior answer "Its Not". Thats too vague and suggests identical which is not true. I should have said "Both will be within the range of a 20 grade" or "similar weight". This answer includes oils in the same multi-grade. Would take hours of writing to explain why that is, there are many variables. A quick example: TGMO 0w20 is synthetic produced by XOM. M1 0w20 is synthetic produced by XOM. But TGMO 0w20 is not a rebranded M1 0w20, its a unique brew. One of the thinnest oils in the world with one of the highest VI's on the market. Compared to TGMO 0w20, M1 0w20 is thicker with a average VI. So while they are both 0w20's, one is thicker than the other. They could be closer or farther away depending on what operation temperature is. Using the industry standard 100ºC, there is a difference on the warm side but its very small. More of a difference when cold.

Thanks for the explanation. This compares e.g. 5w-20 vs 0w-20 or the same viscosity oil from different brands, right? If I think M1 5w-20 is thick enough then how would M1 0w-20 be not thick enough at operating temperatures? This is for someone who would bash use of 0w-20 but will be perfectly OK with same brand 5w-20 (I see this a lot so I am trying to figure out why).
 

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Thanks for the explanation. This compares e.g. 5w-20 vs 0w-20 or the same viscosity oil from different brands, right? If I think M1 5w-20 is thick enough then how would M1 0w-20 be not thick enough at operating temperatures? This is for someone who would bash use of 0w-20 but will be perfectly OK with same brand 5w-20 (I see this a lot so I am trying to figure out why).
I compared 0w20's to make the point that even in the same multi-grade range (combination of cold and hot) there can be differences. To answer your question, in general 0w20 would be a better choice because of its cold weather viscosity. At operation temps there is little difference between 0w20 and 5w20. They bash 0w20 because they cling to a manual printed prior to the development of 0w20. 90% of engine wear is startup, so I'm more concerned with the cold "w" number. Want that as low as possible. The operating temps are of lesser concern. I use a 0w30, even a 0w40 depending on the age of the engine, oil burning, etc. But I don't do that without a reason. If there is no consumption using 0w20, stay with it.
 

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This compares e.g. 5w-20 vs 0w-20 or the same viscosity oil from different brands, right? If I think M1 5w-20 is thick enough then how would M1 0w-20 be not thick enough at operating temperatures? This is for someone who would bash use of 0w-20 but will be perfectly OK with same brand 5w-20 (I see this a lot so I am trying to figure out why).
You have to keep in mind a few things when looking at oil grades. The first number like 0W or 5W has specifications only related to the cold start up. To make things more difficult they change the standard (test temperature) based on the grade, where OW is tested lower. So you can't directly compare the specifications.

The second number has specifications related to the operating temperature. However, quite a wide range is acceptable. 20 includes 100 deg C viscosity ranging from 5.6 to 9.3. 30 starts at 9.3, so you could have a light 30 at essentially the same viscosity as a heavy 20. They are all tested at the same temperature so you can compare from grade to grade.

See this link for some more details on oil viscosity specifications.

Also keep in mind that the 40 deg C viscosity is a warm condition, neither hot or cold. It is not a specification point.

I would suggest what causes confusion when people especially see 0W on the can is that they associate viscosity with the number, and when they see a zero that must mean it is really thin, like zero thin. Of course it is not. All grades are way too thick at even 40 deg C. For example a 40 weight oil may be about 15 cSt at operating temperature. A 0W20 is likely to be about 45 cSt at 40 deg C. So it is not thin at cooler temperatures compared to what the engine wants.

As far as 0W20 being a lot different than 5W20 have a look at this specification chart for Petro Canada synthetics. Compare the 0W20 to the 5W20. The viscosity at 40 and 100 deg C is essentially identical. Quite likely it is the same oil with the 0W20 having some low temperature pumping additives to let it meet the 0W pumping specifications. If there really is a difference in the two oils it would only likely show up at -35 deg C or so...

Now if you compare the 0W20 to the 0W30 you can see a difference and this is certainly not the same oil. Despite them both being 0W they are not the same viscosity at lower temperatures. There is a difference even at 40 deg. C.

Comparing oils is not all that simple. No wonder than many are confused about what the numbers mean.
 

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2008 Camry Hybrid - approx. 120k miles.

When making a sharp turn or coming to an abrupt stop, dash lights up and message appears "Low Engine Oil Pressure". Message only flashes for a second. When car is moving at normal pace - i.e., no sharp movements - no messages display.

Car has had an oil change and filter replaced approx. 3,000 miles ago. I usually get the oil change done every 5,000 miles.

If it matters - we are going through the heat wave right now. Temps in our area have been at or above 100 degrees steady for the last 10 days or so. It seems to me that this problem appeared when the weather spike occurred and has steadily become more frequent day by day.

Problem seems to be worse for the first 15-20 minutes that car is run, and decreases when car has been running awhile. I don't know much about cars, but this would make sense as the pressure in the engine builds as the car is running, right?

What I want to know is the following:
- How dire is this problem? (I am at work - can I drive the 50 miles home or do I need to get it towed to a mechanic right away?)
- Is there anything I should check on my own before taking it to the mechanic and/or any potential DIY fixes?
- Any idea what the possible problems could be AND how much $$$ I may be looking at for a fix? (Worst timing for major car repairs for us right now.)


Additional question - this car is new to me, only had it for about a year and so far no major repairs needed, just typical tires/oil changes/etc. I have been taking it to a local shop for these fixes, but this is my first hybrid vehicle. Is it better to take the car into a dealer and/or shop that specializes in hybrid vehicles when a major repair is needed or is it OK to take it pretty much anywhere? I have only minimal knowledge of engine anatomy and beyond a basic understanding of the fuel cell, I struggle to understand how/where my hybrid is different than a typical non-hybrid engine - therefore I find it difficult to make judgment calls about how much expertise should be sought for my repairs.
 

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Low oil pressure is a very big deal and I would not drive it any further. Driving with low oil pressure can lead to scaring of cylinder walls and or engine seizure resulting in engine rebuild or replacement.

The first thing I would check to make sure is that there is enough oil in the motor. (check your dip stick) and check for oil leaks under the car or splash residue under the hood/in and around the motor.

any competent mechanic should be able to figure it out since this a engine issue and not a hybrid issue is my guess.
 

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The only time I have seen the oil light come on in a car when turning corners, or stop/starting, is when the oil level is very low (down 2 quarts or so). Check your oil level ASAP.
 
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The only time I have seen the oil light come on in a car when turning corners, or stop/starting, is when the oil level is very low (down 2 quarts or so). Check your oil level ASAP.
That's exactly what I was going to say.
 

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This could be from a oil filter that's not tightened enough and may be leaking only when your driving.

I would not take a chance. It might be best to have the oil filter replaced with a new one and add what oil is needed.
 
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This could be from a oil filter that's not tightened enough and may be leaking only when your driving.

I would not take a chance. It might be best to have the oil filter replaced with a new one and add what oil is needed.
A loose oil filter would be noticed right away, as oil would be gushing out. I had that happen t be once on my 1979 VW Rabbit Diesel. Scared the living daylights out of me. The oil ring partially came undone. Had to have the car towed back to the dealer. Engine was just about bone dry of oil. Managed to stop engine before any damage.
 

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A loose oil filter would be noticed right away, as oil would be gushing out. I had that happen t be once on my 1979 VW Rabbit Diesel. Scared the living daylights out of me. The oil ring partially came undone. Had to have the car towed back to the dealer. Engine was just about bone dry of oil. Managed to stop engine before any damage.
My wife drove a '91 Dodge Shadow. She had Walmart change the oil as a routine in 2003. A week later she kept smelling a odor from under the hood. Raising the hood the engine was soaked with fresh thin film of oil.

She and I looked everywhere and just could not figure where it was from. The new Fram oil filter wally installed was also wet same as everything else. The Walmart auto worker said the filter was tight, so no problem their. My wife wanted it fixed so we left the car at the Dodge dealer. It was ready the next day and cost $50. They had replaced the Fram filter with a Wix and told us the Fram filter was the problem. I never found if it was the seal or a leak in the small type thin container. Actually I was not much of a Fram fan in those days.

That fixed the problem and after cleaning the engine it was ok from then on. We went back to Walmart trying to get the older auto manager their to reimburse us but it was like talking to a wall. I still buy my 0W Mobil One oil from them and the Filer from the Dealer.

Talking Oil change I got 2 years to get my free dealer oil changes so the 10K on my TCH should be soon. Today I was told their still using quarts and will be using bulk 0W starting in about a month.

.
 

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Like others said ... check the oil level ... make sure the oil level is near the top notch on the dipstick.

Check all around for oil leaks ... get under your car and see if oil is pooling in the dust shield beneath the engine. Look for oil anywhere and everywhere ... if you find any, determine its source ... it's gotta be coming from somewhere and it always leaves a clearly visible trail.

Others mentioned the oil filter as a potential problem. It's worth checking ... could be not snubbed up securely. Or ... and this is the voice of experience ... the rubber seal that secures the filter to the engine might have separated from the last prior filter and stuck to the engine. When the new filter was screwed on, its rubber seal was screwed up against the old seal, which forms no seal at all ... oil will pump out between the two seals. The chances of that happening are small, but it happened to me a number of years ago. I learned a valuable lesson: when removing an oil filter, make absolutely certain that the seal comes off with the filter ... that it hasn't come off the filter and attached itself to the oil filter mount on the engine. Look at it ... touch it ... show it to your dog ... show it to your neighbor's wife ... set it out on the driveway and let the satellites in space photograph it. Make sure you can account for the old seal before you spin-on the new filter.
 

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Thought I would give an update.

Checked the oil level, it was little low. It was the same distance for me to drive to the nearest store to buy oil as it was to get to the nearest shop to have it looked at, so I chose the shop.

Told them to check for leaks and about the message...and change oil while they are at it.

Results were that there was no obvious reason for the message beyond slightly low oil. Oil change topped everything off and light has not come back on since. No leaks seen by the mechanic or me when I checked.

I asked the mechanics why my oil would have been low. I typically go 5000 miles between oil changes and was told by the dealer that was acceptable for my car so I was well within that range. Mechanic said that its possible the oil just burned off faster in the extreme heat we've had and told me to get oil changes more frequently than 5000 miles.

Does this sound right to you all? I was expecting to see a bill for some kind of repair and instead just ended up paying 50 bucks for an oil change. Can't complain there.
 

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A possible reason for what you experienced is centrifugal force. You said that the oil level was found to be a bit low. That being the case what could have occurred is that when you made those hard turns or quick stops centrifugal force allowed the oil to slosh around, especially if it was hot and had thinned a bit. The force moved it away from the gauge sensor enough to trigger the momentary warning you received. Once you had the correct amount of oil back in the engine the problem went away.

As aside: Eons ago I bought a new 1971 Datsun 501 sedan equipped with a 2-speed automatic. Shortly after delivery I noticed that whenever I was in the middle of a sharp turn the car suddenly acted like it was in neutral. There was no response from the gas pedal until I straightened out again. Then the transmission would go back into gear with a thunk. Went to the dealer. He asked one of his mechanics, who had just returned from a factory repair school, if he'd ever heard of such a thing. "Yep," said the mechanic, "And you'll probably be getting more such complaints." Turns out that the factory-recommended transmission fluid level was too low and during hard turns centrifugal force would push the fluid away from the impeller blades in the transmission. The effect was like being in neutral. The cure, which the mechanic then did, was to fill the transmission to the top until the fluid was coming out the filler hole.
 

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I asked the mechanics why my oil would have been low. I typically go 5000 miles between oil changes and was told by the dealer that was acceptable for my car so I was well within that range. Mechanic said that its possible the oil just burned off faster in the extreme heat we've had and told me to get oil changes more frequently than 5000 miles. Does this sound right to you all?
No, it does not sound right. Your engine is water cooled and will run at the same temperature virually year around independent of the daily weather.

0w20 does evaporate a little faster than say a 10w40. However not enough should evaporate even in 10,000 miles to need a quart added.

I would suggest finding a level spot and check the oil level now with the engine warm. Then keep checking it every 500 miles or so in the same spot to see if it is going down, and by how much. Although most would not like it, it is acceptable (to Toyota) to add a quart or so of oil between oil changes.
 

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Sounds like your car is beginning to use a little oil with that many miles, which is not unusual due to normal piston ring and valve seal wear. If it were me I would go to a slightly thicker 10w-30 oil, especially in summer with your hot weather. In winter the thinner 0w-20 will protect the engine better on cold starts as it flows more readily. The important thing is to check your oil level regularly, ie. every 1000 miles or so.
 

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Engine Knocking on start up for a few seconds

:help::help::help: Hi guys im kind of a car noob so i would appreciate the help i currently live in jordan middle east and every time i turn my car on it starts knocking for a few seconds then all is good again and some rough idling like the engine is working too hard i recently changed my spark plugs cleaned my injectors and replaced my air filter and oil (0-20).

if any one knows the fix i would highly appreciate it.
 

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If your car is a hybrid, try this:
When parking, let the ICE shut itself off before hitting the stop(start) button.

Next time you start the car, it should not knock.
 

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If your car is a hybrid, try this:
When parking, let the ICE shut itself off before hitting the stop(start) button.

Next time you start the car, it should not knock.

If this does not work, consider this:

1. we had several owners here, including myself, complaining on eventual rough start ups. engine will shake, even make noise, and then it slowly goes away. It can be anything from mild vibration to major earthquake. It is unpredictable and comes and goes. Last time we had this conversation, no one knows, what and why. We believed, it is one of the PSD oddities.
2. What you describe is more of very persistant EVERY start up noises. What throws me off is that you describe it as "knock". Thing is, everyone has their own understanding of what knock is. Base line being, I believe, you have initial gaps between camshaft and lifters. I do not have information, if lifters are combination of tappets and hydraulic lifter, like Nissan has. They are small barrels with an oil hole at the top, close to camshaft mating lobe. Either way, they have to have very small oil pressure clearance, 0.0031 inch. If either clearance is too big, or lifter is sticky, as in - clogged with carbon deposits, or initial oil pressure is too low, you will have knocking noise at the start up, until metal expands, or oil pressure builds up enough to close the gap.
This leaves me with those guesses: - clogged lifter; - poorly functioning oil pump; - worn out lifter allowing oil to go past, and not keeping the pressure; - worn out camshaft lobes.
I am quite safely assuming, it is clogged lifter. I have fixed MULTIPLE engines with that problem by using Seafoam in oil for several hundred miles, then doing oil change. Last guy we did it had to do it twice, as his Nissan truck was not driven for 2 years and it all got sticky quite bad. Had to do this twice on my son's Infinity also, but it's done. I'd say, cheapest and safest way is to try Seafoam. Pour it into the engine oil, entire can, drive on it for about 200-300 miles, then change oil and filter. Filter will be dead anyway, as Seafom will flush a lot of carbon debris into it.
http://www.autobarn.net/sea-foam-engine-treatment.html?site=google_base&gclid=CLPL_uCLy7kCFWxyQgodd08AaA
 
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