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Yup, mine was pretty gunky after 100K miles. Although I purchased a new one I was able to clean out the old one pretty well and I'm keeping that as a back up. Hope this helps with some of the oil burning.
 

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'13 TAH & '10 FJC
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Yup, mine was pretty gunky after 100K miles. Although I purchased a new one I was able to clean out the old one pretty well and I'm keeping that as a back up. Hope this helps with some of the oil burning.
My experience with PCV valves was that a new one almost always reduced or eliminated oil consumption on many vehicles....as a stuck valve caused a lot of oil to bypass the valve and get burned out the tailpipe. It wouldn't surprise me if you see a significant drop in consumption. If not, then the problem is more complicated and more expensive to fix.

Also, that new one may look clean; however, I'd just throw it away...your call, tho.
 

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I blasted it with some Brake Clean and it works like new.
Newbie question here: Is the Brake Clean available in a pressure can and would I simply hook a slender hose that might come with it and press the release button on the top? Or is some kind of "blaster" used for these kinds of jobs? TIA.
 

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My experience with PCV valves was that a new one almost always reduced or eliminated oil consumption on many vehicles....as a stuck valve caused a lot of oil to bypass the valve and get burned out the tailpipe. It wouldn't surprise me if you see a significant drip in consumption. If not, then the problem is more complicated and more expensive to fix.

Also, that new one may look clean; however, I'd just throw it away...your call, tho.
I remember reading somewhere that it's not entirely a matter of the valve moving easily that might set a good one apart from a bad one. IOW, even if it moves easily it might not be actually good (doing its job) owing to the condition of a spring or such inside?
 

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2008 TCH
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My experience with PCV valves was that a new one almost always reduced or eliminated oil consumption on many vehicles....as a stuck valve caused a lot of oil to bypass the valve and get burned out the tailpipe. It wouldn't surprise me if you see a significant drip in consumption. If not, then the problem is more complicated and more expensive to fix.

Also, that new one may look clean; however, I'd just throw it away...your call, tho.
Yea.... I used my Harbor Freight vacuum tester and pulled vacuum from both sides. If it seals from both sides and moves freely, it is good.
 

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'13 TAH & '10 FJC
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Newbie question here: Is the Brake Clean available in a pressure can and would I simply hook a slender hose that might come with it and press the release button on the top? Or is some kind of "blaster" used for these kinds of jobs? TIA.
Pressure can. Some have a little tube, some don't. Available at all auto parts stores...and Walmarts, etc. I always keep a can on my shelf. Cleans lots of things, and quite well. Just wear gloves if you want to keep your hands soft for the significant other because it will dry the skin out fast.:D
 

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Pressure can. Some have a little tube, some don't. Available at all auto parts stores...and Walmarts, etc. I always keep a can on my shelf. Cleans lots of things, and quite well. Just wear gloves if you want to keep your hands soft for the significant other because it will dry the skin out fast.:D
Other options are throttle body cleaner, or just plain old acetone from the hardware store. I find acetone is something like duct tape, and you should never be without it. Works well for cleaning brakes too! After you have it clean/dry then just suck and blow on it to test it. Don't tell your wife!
 

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It's a pretty cheap item from the dealership if you guys are worried about not working after being cleaned. I didn't want to "suck and blow" on my used car parts :D
 

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agreed. a PCV valve is so cheap, just throw in a new one if you suspect it might affect oil consumption or OTOH, crankcase ventilation efficacy. if the spring is weak, cleaning isn't the solution.
 

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Just curious: how can one tell if the spring is good using this method?
Irrelevant and long as the little disc is centered. The spring being there is only because of the orientation of the valve being horizontal. All the spring does is hold the little disc in the center of the orifice. When positive or negative pressure is applied to the valve, the disc moves one way or the other.

Most vertical valves and a lot of the older PCV valves did not even have a spring. The disc was just held in position by gravity. Again the positive or negative pressure would move the disc up or down.

Now, if the disc were off center or leaning down at an angle or if the valve cannot hold vacuum one way or the other.... Absolutely that would be grounds for replacement.
 

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My 2007 TCH at ~88K miles seemed to have consumed about a quart in ~7K miles; have resolved to get OCIs done at 5K intervals from now on. Will check PCV some time in next Spring and report back.
 

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Just FYI. All the reviews I've seen on after market PCV valves are pretty poor. So if you do decide to get a new one instead of cleaning out your old one opt for an OEM one from a dealer.
 

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Just got the car this morning, it was really overhauled. I could still see fresh gasket/sealant material on the engine. Breaking it in.

Service advisor didn't say anything about how should I drive it (or break in instructions), well I guess they probably want repeat customers.
 

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Does anyone have any idea what percentage of these cars are having this oil consumption problem?

I am in the market for used one of these cars (between 2007 and 2010) and could do without a headache

Is there a way I could I verify that a used one isn't burning lots of oil?
 

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Ken
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Chimicles & Tikellis is investigating a potential class action lawsuit on behalf of Toyota owners and lessees experiencing engine oil consumption. Certain Toyota models (including Camry, Corolla, Matrix, RAV4 and Solara) may contain defective piston rings in the engine causing excessive oil consumption. http://www.chimicles.com/toyota-engine-oil-consumption-class-action-investigation
Any idea of the model years this is for? My daughter has an '03 Corolla that uses a couple of quarts between 5k mile changes so it would be nice if it was included.
 

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14TAH Touring 10 TundraDC
2014 TAH Touring
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Put a finger into the tailpipe (beyond what a dealer prepper would clean) and see if you get any oil residue. My sister's Saturn (With bad rings on one cyliner and 3qt/mo consumption) had big globs of dirty burned oil in the tailpipe. Not a failsafe check as it may get cleaned deep and good, but I'd steer clear if there is any heavy burned oil residual in the tailpipe.
 

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Any idea of the model years this is for? My daughter has an '03 Corolla that uses a couple of quarts between 5k mile changes so it would be nice if it was included.
Well according to that page and in the last paragraph they are referring to people who complained about oil consumption while still under warranty and Toyota doing nothing.

That is what I got out of it. If you have a 2003. Chances are you are way out of the factory warranty on mileage and time. Unless you have documented paperwork showing that you went to the dealer and complained about oil consumption while still under warranty, forget it...
 
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