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ASE CMAT L1 MRRT
09 Avalon XL
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have to replace a front lower control arm on a 2007 Avalon next week.

The book says to remove the engine and transaxle. Looking at the control arm, it looks like the engine mount is what is in the way. Once that is removed, it looks like the two control arm bolts in the front will come out.
Any Toyota techs want to enlighten me?

Thanks
 

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'06 Avalon
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If you don't receive a response here - check out:

http://www.toyota-4runner.org

There is an excellent dealer tech there who goes by the name BlackWorksInc

Join that forum for free and PM the man. Friendly guy.
 
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I'm not a tech but I looked at one today and I agree. Maybe roll one of those engine lifts to the front and hook up just to get the weight off from the mount. Those two large bolts on the front of the control arm are just under it. Huge timesaver it it works. I guess the engineers thought different.
 

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ASE CMAT L1 MRRT
09 Avalon XL
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820 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Customer did not bring the vehicle in. Thanks for the input
 

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I did this for my 2007...right side(passenger) is a breeze...support and push the engine up - remove the mount and undo the two massive 19 mm bolts - DONE.

But the driver side is another story...CANNOT be done with out engine removed - yes this is true.

I tried it...with engine pushed all the way up on a supported jack (as high as it goes) then all engine mount bolts are undone(no problem there) but the top threaded bolt on engine mount is too long to be wiggled out under the transmission support arm(the one that sits on top of the engine mount). I even cut the small part of the top the threaded bolt to shorten the length...no luck.

I would love to see someone try and prove me wrong. The Factory Service Manual states to "Remove Engine and Transaxle" Really???!!!!

I have not tried it - but I guess you can lower the whole front sub frame with engine on it - then push the engine up and may be you may have enough space then to remove the mount?

I took it to Toyota dealer for quote, he gave me discounted quote of $2500(including parts) for both sides - said the same thing - engine have to come out.

What a poor design TOYOTA - shame!!! :-(
 

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ASE CMAT L1 MRRT
09 Avalon XL
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820 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Oh great the compliance bushing on my left control arm is cracked, and cracks never get smaller.


I have a lift and an engine support and lots of determination, so if it can be done, I'll do it when it needs to be done :grin:
 

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SURE....it's like saying dismantle the car and put it back together...No Problem..RIGHT!!!!

I was referring to the fact that how impractical and absurdly difficult TOYOTA has made this simple job by making a poor design choice.

How many DIYers you know can lower their car's sub frame in their garage with regular jacks???
 

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Hey Bitter-

gonna try this on my 2GRFE 05 Avy, im borrowing 3 other jacks from friends + mine = 4, any current videos to support the exact engine parts to raise and exact front frame area to lower?

thank you!
Sorry, none from me. Might be some on youtube somewhere though. It should be pretty apparent once you start jacking the engine or trans up (2x4 between pan and jack) to see what's holding it from moving upward like engine mounts and then when you need to lower the frame down likewise apparent what's keeping it from lowering like fluid lines and wire harnesses attached to it.
 

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I did this for my 2007...right side(passenger) is a breeze...support and push the engine up - remove the mount and undo the two massive 19 mm bolts - DONE.

But the driver side is another story...CANNOT be done with out engine removed - yes this is true.

I tried it...with engine pushed all the way up on a supported jack (as high as it goes) then all engine mount bolts are undone(no problem there) but the top threaded bolt on engine mount is too long to be wiggled out under the transmission support arm(the one that sits on top of the engine mount). I even cut the small part of the top the threaded bolt to shorten the length...no luck.

I would love to see someone try and prove me wrong. The Factory Service Manual states to "Remove Engine and Transaxle" Really???!!!!

I have not tried it - but I guess you can lower the whole front sub frame with engine on it - then push the engine up and may be you may have enough space then to remove the mount?

I took it to Toyota dealer for quote, he gave me discounted quote of $2500(including parts) for both sides - said the same thing - engine have to come out.

What a poor design TOYOTA - shame!!! :-(
I did both on 2009 without removing the engine. Remove the dog bone mount bolt completely, remove the front mount top nut, lose the other side mount top nut. Both sides have same level of difficulties. I couldn't just pull it straight away but had to rotate it first so the mount can be tilted and pulled. Maybe your mount have longer stud, not sure.
 

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I just completed this job. There is zero need to remove the engine or lower the cradle.
  1. Remove the top nuts from the driver and passenger engine mounts and the bolt from the front engine mount.
  2. Remove the vertical bolt, horizontal bolt, and 45 degree diagonal bolt from the dog bone mount and the dog bone itself.
  3. Remove the intake ducting: filter housing, gooseneck, and the funnel that mounts to the core support.
  4. Check for any restricting wiring and remove any that is needed.
  5. Now the engine will easily lift plenty high to remove those engine mounts.
  6. The left/right mounts have to tilt out; you can’t lift them straight up. If you have waited too long to inspect the mounts, like me, the job will be infinitely more difficult because the nuts that are inside the engine cradle may have decayed to the point there is nothing to grab on to with a socket but maddeningly still plenty to hold the mount in place.
Reassembly torque values:
  • all lower engine mount nuts: 64 ft pounds
  • all upper engine mount nuts/bolt: 70 ft pounds
  • vertical dog bone bolt: 28 ft pounds
  • horizontal/diagonal dog bone bolts: 32 foot pounds
  • big bolts on the control arms: 148 ft pounds
  • upside down vertical control arm bolt: 152 ft pounds
  • lower ball joint nuts/bolt: 55 ft pounds
Be careful the inner CV joints don't slip out or you will end up in a very bad mood. Shouldn't be an issue if you're only doing the control arms.
 

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I just completed this job. There is zero need to remove the engine or lower the cradle.
  1. Remove the top nuts from the driver and passenger engine mounts and the bolt from the front engine mount.
  2. Remove the vertical bolt, horizontal bolt, and 45 degree diagonal bolt from the dog bone mount and the dog bone itself.
  3. Remove the intake ducting: filter housing, gooseneck, and the funnel that mounts to the core support.
  4. Check for any restricting wiring and remove any that is needed.
  5. Now the engine will easily lift plenty high to remove those engine mounts.
  6. The left/right mounts have to tilt out; you can’t lift them straight up. If you have waited too long to inspect the mounts, like me, the job will be infinitely more difficult because the nuts that are inside the engine cradle may have decayed to the point there is nothing to grab on to with a socket but maddeningly still plenty to hold the mount in place.
Reassembly torque values:
  • all lower engine mount nuts: 64 ft pounds
  • all upper engine mount nuts/bolt: 70 ft pounds
  • vertical dog bone bolt: 28 ft pounds
  • horizontal/diagonal dog bone bolts: 32 foot pounds
  • big bolts on the control arms: 148 ft pounds
  • upside down vertical control arm bolt: 152 ft pounds
  • lower ball joint nuts/bolt: 55 ft pounds
Be careful the inner CV joints don't slip out or you will end up in a very bad mood. Shouldn't be an issue if you're only doing the control arms.
Carlaisle- nice post...

however, what are these vertical/horizontal dog bone bolts that you reference?

any pic's, location or another name for these bolts?

thanks
TFHammer
 

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You still need to remove that upper engine mount (dog bone) in order to lift the engine. The engine must be lifted to replace either of the control arms because the left/right engine mounts must be removed to access the forwardmost mounting bolt on the respective lower control arms. Removing that dog bone engine mount is about a two minute job with hand tools. They are all 14mm heads if I recall correctly, but don't quote me on that. A short socket and ratchet or ratching wrench are all you need.
 

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You still need to remove that upper engine mount (dog bone) in order to lift the engine. The engine must be lifted to replace either of the control arms because the left/right engine mounts must be removed to access the forwardmost mounting bolt on respective lower control arms. Removing that dog bone engine mount is about a two minute job with hand tools. They are all 14mm heads if I recall correctly, but don't quote me on that. A short socket and ratchet or ratching wrench are all you need.
Carlaisle-

yes, INOV8 sent the above torque specs - thanks again, my goal is to tackle this job by EOY.

TFHammer
 
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