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must.resist.modding
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
** FOR RESPECT TO OTHERS, PLEASE KEEP THIS ON TOPIC. THIS KEEPS IT LESS CLUTTERED!!! **

*WARNING* - I nor ToyotaNation or any of the members who provided DIY/Tutorials are responsible for any damages caused to your vehicle when following the information provided. Depending on the price and quality of LEDs, changing to LEDs can be pricey but your vehicle will consume less battery and will never have to worry about replacing (unless the LED was defective/faulty to begin with). It can cost you anywhere between $50-$200 (guess-timate. It all depends on how many you're changing and quality/brightness you're looking for). If you're going to change out your lights to LED, please be sure you know what will be needed. CE/LE/SE/XLE and Hybrid may vary in LEDs. Its best to order them all at once as it gets a bit pricey if you order a few here and a few there...shipping costs will add up. Changing bulbs requires removal of parts/pieces/panels to gain access to the bulbs/LEDs. Majority are fairly easy to gain access to with the use of a screwdriver, flat head and socket wrench that even a noob can do. It gets more complex if you're looking to change out green/orange SMD LEDs for a different color.
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What is LED?
LED is an abbreviation of Light Emitting Diode. It is an electronic device that lights up when electricity is passed through it. LED bulbs are tiny light bulbs that are eaily fitted into an electrical circuit.

LED Advantages:
The LED bulbs make use of the original lighting fixture and will not damage any part of your car's lighting. These high quality LED bulbs use German diodes to ensure the brightest possible LED light output. These LED bulbs will not flicker and fail prematurely like lower cost alternatives. We are so confident in the quality of these LED bulbs that they are backed by a lifetime warranty directly from Putco. LED bulbs are not manufactured to equal standards. Don't sacrifice your safety when it comes to your automotive LED lighting. This will be the only replacement LED bulb you will need to purchase for your vehicle as they are rated for over 50,000 hours of use.

So here is a MASTER list of LED/bulb sizes & DIY/Tutorials needed for those DIYers who want to change the interior or exterior to LEDs. Everything you need to know can be found here..or most of it at least. With the help of members and yourself, the information gathered is from your/their own experience. Majority of the bulbs in Gen 6/6.5 Camry's and Gen 5/5.5's probably use the same bulbs unless noted (PLEASE go to Sylvania's website to see exactly what bulb size your car uses). This is also a place for everyone to post info/tutorials/DIY on how to access areas that has not already been posted or for those who need help (that is not available. SEE below for DIY links before asking). Again, please keep this on topic. **Any posts that is NOT on topic will be deleted.

Site to see what bulbs are used in your car:
- http://www.sylvania.com/ConsumerProducts/AutomotiveLighting/LampReplacementGuide/
- http://www.superbrightleds.com/vehicle_led_bulb_finder.php


There are sites to buy LED bulbs or SMD/SMT from:
- http://www.autolumination.com - interior/exterior LED bulbs
- http://www.superbrightleds.com - interior/exterior LED bulbs
- http://www.v-leds.com - interior/exterior LED bulbs - [best is to visit their Facebook page and see when a coupon code may appear]
  • Coupon Code - 31X932 (15% OFF order of $50 or more) EXPIRES April 30, 2012
  • Coupon Code - R093B2 (20% OFF order of $100 or more) EXPIRES April 30, 2012
- http://www.oznium.com - cathodes, PLCC-2, pre-wired LEDs
- http://www.ledmod.com - purchase 1206, PLCC-2 SMD/SMT or 5mm leds
- http://www.ebay.com (I suggest only using eBay if you're looking to buy small 1206, PLCC-2 SMD/SMT LEDs or 3mm, 5mm LEDs)

MISC:
Gen 5 - 2002-2004
Gen 5.5 - 2005-2006
Gen 6 - 2007-2009
Gen 6.5 - 2010-present
LED Conversion (3157 to 3156 / 7443 to 7440) - http://www.autolumination.com/conversion.html
LED Turn Signal video -
Complete LED conversion -

DIY Requests: (These are requests that is not listed below. If you have done any of these, please post up a DIY on how you accomplished this. It would greatly help the community)
- LED in cup holder (with or without switch)
- LED in storage compartment of armrest (with or without switch)
- LED in heated seats buttons

DIY Links: (listed in alphabetical order)
- To change the parking light, turn signal and/or front side reflector bulb, you will need to reach into your wheel well to gain access. You will not be able to reach the bulbs from the engine bay. Take a flathead screwdriver and pop out two clips (1 in front and 1 on top). Pull back bumper and wheel well cover and stick your hand in.
- Gen 7 Interior Lights and Tutorial
- "Airbag" and "Fasten Seatbelt" indicator on dash (Gen 6)
- Alternative List of LEDs (Gen 6/6.5)
- Armrest

- Cathode Trunk Light (soldering required)
- Cubby Hole DIY LED Mod
- DIY LED Door Handles
- DIY Load Resistor Installation
- DIY Rear Switchback Blinkers/Reverse Light (Gen 6)
- Door, Trunk, License and Dome (no sunroof) / +Shifter (Gen 6/6.5)
- Flasher Module Mod / Flasher Module Mod (using stock flasher module and adding 500k variable resistor)
- Footwell LED Accent Light w/headlights (Gen 6)
- Footwell to Instrument Cluster (Gen 5/5.5)
- Footwell to Dome Light (Gen 5/5.5)
- Footwell to Dome Light (Gen 6/6.5)
- Glove Box / Glove Box #2 (Gen 6/6.5)
- HVAC Control / HVAC Control (Gen 5/5.5)
- HVAC Control / Image of HVAC Control (Gen 6)
- Instrument Cluster / Instrument Cluster (Gen 6)
- Installing LED Taillights / Tail Light Removal (requires loosening of bumper) available on eBay (Gen 6)
- Interior Lights (Map, Dome, Shifter, Courtesy Doors, Trunk, and License Plates) (Videos - Gen 6/6.5) - Now includes Reverse Lights
- Interior Lights (Map, Vanity, Dome) (Gen 5/5.5)
- License Plate
- Load Resistor Installation Instructions (PDF)
- Radio / Image of Radio (Gen 6)
- Rear Reading Lights / Rear Reading Lights (Gen 6/6.5)
- Remove Instrument Panel/Cluster (install electronic LED flasher module - Gen 6/6.5)
- Shifter, Map Light/Dome and Glove box (Gen 6/6.5)
- Shifter (Gen 6/6.5)
- Steering Wheel Controls (Gen 6) / LE's use PLCC-2
- Steering Wheel Controls (Gen 5/5.5)
- Window Switch (Gen 6)
- Underbody Lighting
- Wiring from Cabin to Engine
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LED vs Stock bulb numbers

There are bulbs that may have a different numbers but is the same as another bulb that has a different number. Dont know what the real purpose of this is for but here is a list:


- 194 replaces T10 147 152 158 159 161 168 184 192 193 259 280 285 447 464 555 558 585 655 656 657 1250 1251 1252 2450 2652 2921 2825 (Wedge)
- 921 replaces 906 579 901 904 908 909 912 914 915 916 917 918 920 921 922 923 926 927 928 939 (Wedge)
- 3022 replaces 3021 3175 6428 6430 (Festoon)
- 3157 & 3156 replaces 3057 3155 3357 3457 4157
- 74 replaces T5
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**NOTE: There is no specific type of LED to buy. So as long its the one of the correct sizes above, you can get ANY LED you want. (VLED V-STAR LEDs that expand may not fit due to size being bigger. It will not lock in socket). All sizes below is the most common sized used on LED sites. LED size below will not be the same as that found on Sylvania. IF NO GEN # IS LISTED, THAT MEANS IT IS FOR GEN 5/5.5/6/6.5.

- Gen 5/5.5 LED Purchase List with Links (purchased by rickdogg)
- Gen 6/6.5 LED Purchase List with Links (purchased by dcemureviews)
- Gen 6/6.5 LED Purchase List (purchased by rapolonio)

Interior (listed in alphabetical order)
- Airbags/Security/Seatbelt (Gen 6) - QTY:4 - PLCC-2 LEDs *Soldering required
- Courtesy Door (Gen 6/6.5) - QTY:2 - 194 wedge bulbs
- Dome (sunroof only) - QTY:1 - 194 wedge bulb
- Dome (no sunroof) - QTY:1 - 3175/3022 festoon bulb (31mm)
- Glove Box - QTY:1 - 74 wedge bulb
- Heated Seats (Gen 5/5.5) - QTY:2 - NeoWedge (NEO3 - 3mm)
- HVAC Controls (Gen 5/5.5) - QTY:9 - Neo Wedge (NEO4 - 4mm - buttons + hazard)
- HVAC Controls (Gen 6) - QTY:6 (2 per knob) - PLCC-2/0603 LEDs *Soldering required
- Map Light - QTY:2 - 194 wedge bulbs
- Rear Reading Lights (Gen 6/6.5 - sunroof only) - QTY:2 - 194 wedge bulbs
- Shifter - QTY:1 - 74 wedge bulb
- Steering Wheel - QTY:3 (no Bluetooth) or QTY:5 (with BT) - 1206 smd/0805 (Gen 6); PLCC-2 LEDs (Gen 5.5) *Soldering required
- Stereo Headunit (Gen 6) - QTY:8 - PLCC-2/0603 LEDs *Soldering required
- Trunk - QTY:1 - 194 wedge bulb
- Vanity - QTY:2 - 194 wedge bulbs (Gen 6/6.5) / Vanity (29mm - Gen 5/5.5)
- Window Switch Control (driver side only) - QTY:1 - 1206 LED (Gen 6.5 - Driver door) / 5mm LED lamps (Gen 6) / 3mm (Gen 5/5.5 & Gen 6.5 - Passenger door) *Soldering required

Exterior (listed in alphabetical order)
- Back Up/Reverse Lights - QTY:2 - 921 bulbs (get the brightest or it wont be visible during the day for safety reasons; 27+ LED or High Power)
- Center High Stop Mount (Gen 5/5.5) - QTY:1 - 194 wedge bulb
- Front/Rear Sidemarker - QTY:2 - 194/2825 wedge bulbs (worth changing ONLY if your remove reflector and want white light. Otherwise, you're wasting money)
- Front Parking Lights (Gen 6.5) - QTY:2 - 194/2825 wedge bulbs
- Front Turn Signal/Parking Lights** (Gen 5/6) - QTY:2 - 3157/3457 (must be CK type (SWACK or SACK). If using regular LED, read below for more information. Get the brightest or it wont be visible during the day for safety reasons; 48+ LED/High Power)
- Front Turn Signal/Parking Lights** (Gen 5.5) - QTY:2 - 7440/7443 (must be CK type (SWACK or SACK). If using regular LED, read below for more information. Get the brightest or it wont be visible during the day for safety reasons; 48+ LED/High Power)
- Front Turn Signal** (Gen 6.5) - QTY:2 - 7440/7443 (must be CK type (SACK). If using regular LED, read below for more information. Get the brightest or it wont be visible during the day for safety reasons; 48+ LED/High Power)
  • Type 1 alternates white and amber when the turn signal is applied
  • Type 2 only the amber flashes when the turn signal is applied.
  • The CK bulb is designed for special applications commonly found on Toyota vehicles like the Camry, RAV4, 03-08 Corolla, and all Tundras. If you have a standard socket and try installing this bulb may cause a dead short and blow your fuse or will not light on the parking element. (info from V-LEDS)
  • SWA probably means Switchback White Amber CK
  • SA probably means Standard(?) Amber CK
  • (from ruc2827) 3457 front parking/turn signal bulbs are SACK wiring (see http://www.autolumination.com/conversion.html), which is a special wiring common on Toyotas, where both the high and low + wires are on one side of the wedge, rather than opposed which is normal. For incandescent bulbs, this doesn't matter since polarity doesn't matter, but for LEDs where most bulbs require a certain polarity this absolutely matters and will cause fuses or bulbs to burn out. V-LEDs.com and Autolumnation.com sell SACK type bulbs, or you can rig one by moving the ground wire on the side of the high + wire to the other side, and move the low + wire to where the ground was by flipping it over and angling it. It is a little precarious and you may need to cut out some of the base to run the low + wire across then tape with electrical tape to avoid touching any contacts. You can figure out which end are the grounds by using a multi meter and test for resistance. The two grounds should have no resistence, making a closed circuit. If you orient the bulb with both grounds down facing you, the high + is the on the upper left and the low + is on the upper right. You need to flip the bottom left ground over and move the upper right + to the lower left where the ground was. Its messy, but it works if you are careful and look at the socket to see where everything needs to go and make sure it fits before firing it up (the socket is removable to see it better by squeezing the base to release it.)
- License Plate - QTY:2 - 194 wedge bulbs
- Low Beam/DRL/High Beam/Fog Lights - **DO NOT** put LEDs into any of these locations. LEDs do not put out enough wattage and are not as bright as halogen bulbs!
- Rear Turn Signal** (Gen 5/5.5) - QTY:2 - 921 bulbs (get the brightest or it wont be visible during the day for safety reasons; 48+ LED or High Power)
- Rear Turn Signal** (Gen 6/6.5) - QTY:2 - 7440/7443 bulbs (get the brightest or it wont be visible during the day for safety reasons; 48+ LED or High Power - Gen 6.5 turn signals on taillights are covered in red. No matter what color LED you get, it will still be red.)
- Tail Lights** (Gen 5/5.5 - for OEM stock housings only) - QTY:2 - 3157 (get the brightest or it wont be visible during the day for safety reasons; 27+ LED or High Power)
- Tail Lights** (Gen 6 only - for OEM stock housings only) - QTY:2 - 7443 wedge bulbs (get the brightest or it wont be visible during the day for safety reasons; 27+ LED or High Power)
- Tail Lights (Gen 6.5 only) - Taillights are already LEDs. Currently, there are no aftermarket taillights. Eagle Eye LED Taillights for Gen 6 (2007-2009) will NOT fit on Gen 6.5 (2010+) due to different plugs

** The following are a MUST if you are changing your turn signals or taillights to LED. If an LED is giving you problems, you'll need to get this. Not installing these will blow your relay/fuse, bulb out warning or hyper flashing/blinking. YOU DO NOT NEED BOTH. CHOOSE ONE OF THE TWO.

- LED Flasher Module (CF18-08 - #81980-50030 - MAX 150W) - QTY:1 - Located behind instrument panel (Gen 6/6.5). Requires removal of panels around steering wheel and removing original DENSO module (see above for link to DIY or service manual for more info). Module works with normal bulbs as well. No need to cut any factory wires. *You lose parking light flashing confirmation with arming/disarming (lock/unlock) using OEM keyfob. If using aftermarket alarm like Viper, you still have flashing confirmation. If you do not want to buy new module or splice wires, you can modify the original module by soldering wires and 500k variable resistor (click here for instructions). Original part #81980-02030
- Load Resistors (3ohm or 6ohm) - QTY:2 (install where ever is easiest and away from wires) - You splice/tap into original wires with supplied connectors. If you remove load resistors in the future, you can cover exposed wires with electrical tape. *DO NOT let load resistor touch wires or plastic as it gets hot and will melt them. You have 2 choices of resistors, a 6 OHM and a 3 OHM. Which one do you use? The 6 OHM is the equivalent load of 1 bulb. So if you replace 1 set of bulbs, (the front OR rear bulbs) you will need to install 1 pair of resistors. The 3 OHM is the equivalent load of 2 bulbs. If you replace all 4 of your bulbs than use 1 set of 3 OHM resistors. More information on how to install can be found @ http://vleds.wordpress.com/2010/10/28/fixing-blinker-hyper-flash/


I'll be updating this post if I find any useful information. So check back to see what is new.
 

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6,123 Posts
Good Job
 

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Registered
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3 Posts
Thank You!

This is so useful, instead of searching all over the place, all the necessary information a person needs right here. :clap:
 

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must.resist.modding
Joined
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5,234 Posts
Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
These are the bulbs that I ordered for those curious
- (1) Dome (sunroof only), (2) Visor Vanity, (2) License Plate, (2) Rear Reading - #194 bulbs
- (2) Front Map Lights - #194 bulbs
- (2) Courtesy Door - #194 bulbs
- (1) Shifter - #74 bulb
- (1) Glove Box - #74 bulb
- (2) 27-LED Reverse Light (link is to 36 since the 27 is no longer being sold)
- (2) 7W 20 High Power LED Rear Turn Signal (requires LED flasher module or load resistors)
- (2) Type 2 SWACK 60-LED Front Turn Signal (requires LED flasher module or load resistors)
- Cathode Trunk Light Kit
 

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must.resist.modding
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5,234 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
The only LED I have not changed yet is the glove box. Taking a closer look at the service manual, I think I know how. I'll have a DIY for that when I get home. Originally, I was using a mirror and tweezers to try and get to it.
 

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must.resist.modding
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5,234 Posts
Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
DIY LED Glove Box

OK, so I finally got to changing my glove box to LED. At first, I tried to remove the bulb by using tweezers/pliers and a mirror to see up into the glove box. But I got no where and gave up. I knew the glove box was removable but didnt know how. So I looked at the service manual again as I'm looking into gaining access to the back of instrument panel. I'll save that for another DIY (maybe). But onto the DIY...

Tools needed for DIY:
  1. #74 LED
  2. Fingers/hands
  3. Philips Screwdriver
  4. 10mm Ratchet Wrench
Total time of DIY: approximately 10 mins
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CLICK ON IMAGES TO ENLARGE

1. There are 3 philips screws. Remove them.


2. This is the bottom left of glove box. Remove philips screw


3. This is on the bottom right side behind the cover. You'll need a 10mm ratchet wrench. Try not to drop it...just to save yourself some trouble.


4. Once all screws and bolts are removed, grab the sides, insides or anything and pull towards you. The glove box will fall. It's held in place by 3 yellow clips and 2 black ones.


5. On the dash itself, you'll see a little black button. Reach your finger underneath and push it out. You'll be presented with this...


6. Swap the bulb for with the LED.


7. Once swapped, turn the stalk to DRL or headlight to make sure it lights up.


8. Put everything back in reverse order. At the bottom of the glove box, there is a cover. If it falls out of place, just put them back into place. The pegs go into a small opening (sorry no picture. Hard to take a picture). Also, when you're putting the bottom right cover back, make sure you pull towards you a little and place the cover over the white piece and than push in to snap in place.
 

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268 HP OWNER
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1,085 Posts
OK, so I finally got to changing my glove box to LED. At first, I tried to remove the bulb by using tweezers/pliers and a mirror to see up into the glove box. But I got no where and gave up. I knew the glove box was removable but didnt know how. So I looked at the service manual again as I'm looking into gaining access to the back of instrument panel. I'll save that for another DIY (maybe). But onto the DIY...

Tools needed for DIY:
  1. Fingers/hands
  2. Philips Screwdriver
  3. 10mm Ratchet Wrench
Total time of DIY: approximately 10 mins

__________________________________________________

1. There are 3 philips screws. Remove them.


2. This is the bottom left of glove box. Remove philips screw


3. This is on the bottom right side behind the cover. You'll need a 10mm ratchet wrench. Try not to drop it...just to save yourself some trouble.


4. Once all screws and bolts are removed, grab the sides, insides or anything and pull towards you. The glove box will fall. It's held in place by 3 yellow clips and 2 black ones.


5. On the dash itself, you'll see a little black button. Reach your finger underneath and push it out. You'll be presented with this...


6. Swap the bulb for with the LED.


7. Once swapped, turn the stalk to DRL or headlight to make sure it lights up.


8. Put everything back in reverse order. At the bottom of the glove box, there is a cover. If it falls out of place, just put them back into place. The pegs go into a small opening (sorry no picture. Hard to take a picture). Also, when you're putting the bottom right cover back, make sure you pull towards you a little and place the cover over the white piece and than push in to snap in place.
Great job dcemureviews for posting this,
but for glove box i didn't have to take it apart , I just used tweezer and mirror.
 

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must.resist.modding
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5,234 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Great job dcemureviews for posting this,
but for glove box i didn't have to take it apart , I just used tweezer and mirror.
Yes. I linked to your DIY in the first post. I tried doing this as well but the tweezer kept slipping off and I didnt want to squeeze to hard and end up breaking it. I think I spent more time trying the tweezer method than I did snapping pics and removing glove box. I think some people also tried tweezer and couldnt get it out.
 

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must.resist.modding
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5,234 Posts
Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
DIY Removal of Instrument Panel/Cluster & Electronic LED Flasher

Got my Electronic LED Flasher for my LED turn signals and decided to do a DIY since it seemed fairly easy and I had a half day giving me enough daylight out in case I run into a snag. By installing a Electronic LED Flasher Module (CF18), this allows you to use LED turn signals or taillights without hyper flashing/blinking, blown fuses or bulb out warning. Hyper flashing/blinking is when your blinker blinks really fast. By law, your turn signal is allowed to blink a certain amount of times within a minute. Instead of installing Electronic LED Flasher Module, you can install load resistors but this requires splicing of factory wire but you keep all functions.

*NOTE: You will lose your parking light flash when you arm/disarm (lock/unlock) your car. I also lost my hazards when no key is in the ignition. This could maybe be because of my Viper 5701. Others who installed the LED flasher module did not have this problem.

Tools needed for DIY:
  1. LED bulbs
  2. Electronic LED Flasher Module (CF18)
    a. If you prefer to use load resistors, follow this tutorial
  3. Fingers/hands
  4. Philips Screwdriver
  5. Flathead Screwdriver
  6. 10mm Ratchet Wrench
Total time of DIY: approximately 30-60 mins
__________________________________________________

CLICK ON IMAGES TO ENLARGE

1. Like the DIY for the LED Glove Box, there is a 10mm bolt (left side) and a screw (right side). You'll need to move the cover out of the way to access the bolt. So you'll need a 10mm ratchet wrench and philips screwdriver for the screw.


2. Now that the screw and bolt is removed, pull on the bottom panel until all clips are dislodged. The cable for the hood will prevent you from removing it from the car. You can probably unclip the cable or something but I left it on there.


3. Once the bottom panel is off, you can remove the two panels to the side of the steering wheel. Both are held in by clips. There are no screws. Just pull them out and place them out of the way.


4. Now we get to the instrument panel. There are two clips at the top of the panel.


5. Push the middle in with a screwdriver or something thin. Than take a flathead screwdriver or your fingernails and pull it out.


6. Once the pins are removed, you can remove the instrument panel cover. Just pull it out and place it out of the way.


7. The instrument cluster should now be visible. There are four screws; 2 on top and 2 on the bottom. Just use your philips screwdriver and remove them. Try not to drop them. I dont know where they would end up if it drops.


8. There is no need to unplug the instrument cluster but you can if you want to give yourself more room. Just move the instrument cluster to the right side (radio) so that its out of the way. This is where it took the longest for me. On the left side, you'll see the DENSO flasher module.


9. First unplug the cable. Either use your fingers to squeeze the tab (you'll have to do it blind and feel for it). I used a flathead to help me as the tab was too small for my fingers and I couldnt get a good grip (module is from electronic LED flasher and for reference on where the tab is located).


10. The flasher module is held in place by a white clip. To remove this, take a flathead screwdriver and get it under the white piece. Pry it up. Once you have the whole thing remove, just stick your flathead screwdriver in between the flasher module and white clip and unlatch it.


11. Once you swapped the flasher module with the electronic LED flasher module, plug the cable into the electronic LED flasher. Before you put everything back, place a LED bulb into one of the rear turn signals (if you havent done so) and make sure everything works by inserting key into ignition and using the turn signal. You dont want to put everything back only to find out something is wrong and you have to take it all apart again. Once you have confirmed that it works, put the flasher back onto the clip. Now that everything is good, put everything back in reverse order.

12. As for the clip from the instrument panel cover, since the center was pushed in for removal, you'll have to push the pin out for when you are inserting it back after everything is done.


End result, fully functional LED turn signals without splicing/tapping into factory wires. Even if you were to change back to regular filament bulbs, the electronic LED flasher will work with it as well. When you unlock/lock your doors with your keyfob, the parking lights will NOT flash for confirmation. However, the flashing confirmation worked with my Viper 5701 alarm. One thing for me that also didnt work is hazard lights with NO key. Hazard lights ONLY work if the key is turned to ON (right before you turn to ignition) or if the car is running. That is the only time the hazard will come on. This could also be due to the fact that I have Viper alarm and this could be causing the problem. Others who dont have an aftermarket alarm system have no problems with hazards with no key.

*UPDATE (9/30/09) - I ended up installing resistors. The lack of hazards with no key was killing me since there were times where I needed them. If you want a tutorial on how to install load resistors, follow this tutorial.

DRL on with Parking Lights | DRL on with Parking Lights and Turn Signal


Black Housed TSX Retrofitted Headlights on with Parking Lights | Black Housed TSX Retrofitted Headlights on with Parking Lights and Turn Signal


To gain access to the parking light bulbs, you'll have to go through the wheel well. No way to get to them through the engine bay.

LED Turn Signal video -
 
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