Ok, so like other Toyota's that I've owned (Tacoma and Tundra) I have found that using the Navigation and Phone controls while moving has been limited.
Let me say that this is something I
wanted to do for my
vehicles since I often times have a passenger (like on a long road trip) that we inevitably decide to detour to another stop besides our ultimate destination. Or while driving we want to use some of the phone options that are unavailable while the vehicle is moving. THIS IS NOT INTENDED TO BE USED TO DISTRACT THE DRIVER, AGAIN, IT IS FOR A PASSENGER TO INTERACT WHILE THE DRIVER CONCENTRATES ON THE ROAD.
If you decide to do this, you do it at your own risk, I am not telling you to do it, nor am I warranting any part of this.
For the trolls that will inevitably post in this thread, if you dont like this mod dont do it. I dont care if you feel some kind of way about it or favor the Crux (or any other brand) bypass. This thread is solely for a How To Bypass the 2015 Highlander LTD w/JBL (And likely 2014, but I dont own that vehicle). This thread is NOT to hear your thoughts on bypassing lockouts, what features this How To doesnt have, or any negativity. If you desire to discuss any of these other things, please do so elsewhere.. create your own thread and have at it.
NOW, for the fun yet easy stuff (VERIFY ALL WIRING CONNECTIONS WITH A MULTIMETER, DONT JUST BLINDLY FOLLOW THIS HOW TO
Heres a picture identifying the speed sense wire (white 28 pin plug, pin #17
, beige thin wire):
this is the harness view if you where to unplug the harness from the head unit. so once you turn the harness around it will be the the third wire on the bottom from the right side.
1. Get some towels to protect dash pieces while working.
2. Remove A/C trim piece from around and below the head unit. Unplug and set aside.
3. Remove thin trim piece from above head unit (by the clock) and it extends to the right of the head unit.
4. Remove both left and right air vents by the head unit.
5. Remove 4 10mm bolts that hold the head unit in place. Place towels or other material on small shelf below head unit to protect interior.
6. Pull head unit out and set on towels, peal back loom and tape to expose the white 28 pin harness that is plugged into the top of the head unit just about center on the back. You can unplug this 28 pin harness if you would like.
7. Locate the speed sense wire (from above) and cut it in the middle so you have enough wire going into the harness as well as wire going back into the dash.
8. Attache a length of wire to each end that you have cut. I used solder and shrink tube, I didnt take pictures as I literally accomplished this in all of 12 minutes.
9. Route BOTH wires to a free uninhabited switch knock out plug, I used one of the spare ones on the left side of the steering wheel, lower row.
10. Reattach loom and tape to wire harness. and push head unit back into the dash.
11. Put the 4 10mm bolts back in and tighten.
12. replace air vents and surrounding trim as well as the A/C trim. Dont forget to plug anything you unplugged in earlier steps.
13. Over at the left of the steering wheel, or wherever you routed your TWO wires to. attach the wires to a standard SPST switch. You could use a lighted switch if you so desired.
14. Test out your handy work.
Some things to note are that while this allows you to interact with the navigation and phone systems as if you were parked, the GPS will not update your position on the map when you have the speed sense wire disconnected. This is because you are tricking the Navigation system into thinking you are not moving. Rest assured though that once you do connect the speed sense back in (flip the switch back) the GPS will update your position. My experience was in about 10-20 seconds at most my location was updated. <----- not necessarily true, I noticed recently that my position still updated while driving and the speed sense was disconnected. your mileage may vary.
Sorry if I seemed a little like I was ranting in the beginning, I am just so use to people being negative and not willing to help. I couldnt find anything on the pin out on the back of the head unit or anyone willing to help locate info here at toyotanation. So I had to get a Master Tech to give the info. But as promised, I said I would bypass the lockout and post how it can be done for a fraction of the cost that a full featured (with video) bypass would cost. I dont care to have video in my vehicles anyways as everyone has tablets now.
Edit: I used these mini switches: