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2018 Highlander Limi
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2008 - 55K miles - left headligh has moisture in headlight? did a search and found it not uncommon, but no real reason or is it covered on ext warranty - one post said, drill a small hole in outside lower lens, problem fixed.. before I go drilling, wanted to ask here.. what are the dealers saying - to replace can't be cheap???
 

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you should never have to drill into the lens (especially on the front exterior), the housing has 2 caps on the back side of it (bulb side) that allow air in/out to keep moisture from building up (the caps are about 1-1.5cm diameter and stand out) The caps sit over holes in the housing, make sure those holes are open and clear.
Another option would be to open up the headlight housing (using an oven to soften the glue between the housing and lens). Get more of the sealant that goes into the "channel" where the lens meets the housing, then reseal the headlight in the oven. That would make sure there is adequate sealant around the entire headlight.
Or if you want to replace it, you can get an aftermarket OE part or OEM used on ebay for probably less than $100-150
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
you should never have to drill into the lens (especially on the front exterior), the housing has 2 caps on the back side of it (bulb side) that allow air in/out to keep moisture from building up (the caps are about 1-1.5cm diameter and stand out) The caps sit over holes in the housing, make sure those holes are open and clear.
Another option would be to open up the headlight housing (using an oven to soften the glue between the housing and lens). Get more of the sealant that goes into the "channel" where the lens meets the housing, then reseal the headlight in the oven. That would make sure there is adequate sealant around the entire headlight.
Or if you want to replace it, you can get an aftermarket OE part or OEM used on ebay for probably less than $100-150

OK<,,, been looking on the back - the ONLY cap I could find was the one pic below (black with yellow spounge inside) it was over the area (Pic with hole) with the open hole.. The other was found but NOT opened and no black cap??

also, how does this entire unit come out....




this one was the sealed hole????
 

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Ok, I have a spare housings laying around I went and took 2 pics of it. There are actually 3 of those "openings". The 2 on the outside have a rubber cap on it with openings behind it. The one on the inside has no cap and no opening. I would check the other one. As long as they are clear, then it probably means there isn't enough sealant in the channel to keep the lens watertight against the housings itself. More water/moisture is getting in than the openings can dissipate.


I'll PM you the docs on removing the headlight as soon as I can get them together and upload them.

edit: This is the channel for the sealant I was talking about, going around the outside of the housing
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
OK< took out the little screws holder the assembly together - So,, got to be a trick here..

I think???? I read somewhere, the unit needs to be heated???? to soften the seal???

forcing it will just break it for sure..

Helpppp
 

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Yes that sealant is going to be as hard as a rock at room temperature. You have to "bake" it. Put it in the oven at 265F for 7 min. Then remove the screws and start pulling the lens away from the housing. If it starts to cool after you get teh screws out, just throw it back into the oven for a few. Eventually the sealant will give. Some will hang away from the lens, just put it in the channel. (take a look at this DIY I wrote for a projector retrofit (http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...ojector-headlight-retrofit-how-pic-heavy.html) It has a more in-depth explanation on how to open/reseal the headlight.)

fyi you can't use silicon in the headlight to seal it (based off what you typed in the PM). It has to have the proper type of sealant. Something like this http://www.theretrofitsource.com/product_info.php?cPath=31&products_id=792 is what is needed. You would scrape out the old sealant, insert the new sealant into the channel, reheat the housing/new sealant, and then push the lens into it. Autostores (autozone, pepboys, advance autoparts, etc...) and dealers might carry it locally, but I have never asked if they do. I did put silicon on the outside of my housings (along housing/lens seam) to provide extra sealant after I retrofitted my headlights. But I wasn't having moisture problems before hand.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I will read your two posts - not sure what I said in my PM to make you think I might not be able to use silicone?? I will try the heat method tomorrow....

Michael
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
looked at both postings,, I did see the black sealant - might be hard to find - but will look... why wouldn't just plain silicone work??
 

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I was referring to silicon inside the channel (you had mentioned "clean it up and put new silicon on it", I used silicon on the outside of the housing not inside), Silicon doesn't tend to stick/seal well to plastic when compared to the butyl, and its not ideal if you have to remove the lens again as it will become a major PITA to get the lens off. Basically with silicon your not guarenteed to get a watertight seal, with the rubber butyl sealant(or butyl tape), you usually are if done properly. There is a reason why OEM manufacturers use this instead of silicon.
 

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Ok well Traildust stickied this thread in the common prob sticky, and asked if I could make it a little more user friendly so here goes nothing, just going to sum up everything/ go into a tad more detail :thumbsup:
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If you have moisture in you headlights, the last thing you ever want to do is start drilling holes in the lens itself, that is just going to make the problem worse. The OEM housing has its own dedicated air opening to allow the flow of moisture to prevent buildups. The housings also has a rubber butyl sealant that goes in a "channel" where the lens and housing meet. If this sealant is compromised, even the OEM openings won't be able to alleviate the amount of moisture that can get in.

Anyway now for things to check:

First, inspect the housing for damage. Look for cracks in the lens, housing, seams, etc... also make sure the turn signal and parking light bulbs are fully and properly seated in their socket, and the main headlight bulb rubber cap is properly on. If all is good, move on.

Second, make sure the housing OEM openings are free/not obstructed. You will probably have to remove the housings from the car to properly check them. Here is a thread that goes into detail on how to install/remove the headlights (http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...ector-led-halo-headlights-installed-pics.html) The openings you are looking for are in this picture below:


The first pic shows two black caps on the outside of the housing. Behind each is an semi-circle opening, make sure those are open and clear. There is suppose to be foam in the black cap (keeps debris out, but allows air). If those are blocked, clear them. In the 2nd pic there is a structure in the lower right part of the housing that resembles what the openings look like, it is suppose to be sealed there though.

Third, its time to check the OEM sealant. It shouldn't just randomly start allowing moisture in, but things can happen. To check/add to the sealant, the headlight must be dissembled, and by that I mean the lens has to come off. Here is how:
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Remove Housing Lens:
There are 9 screws and 3 clips that hold the lens to the housing.

Red boxes show the screw locations (phillips screws) and yellow boxes show the clips. Take the screws out then take it to the oven. Set the oven for 265F and bake the housing for 7 minutes. Now BE VERY CAREFUL, when the plastic is this hot it is EASILY bent and broken so take your time. The clips will be easy to disengage at this point. Just use a large flat screwdriver to pry the lens away from the housing. If the sealant starts to reharden, throw it back into the oven for a min or two to re-soften it. It should come off eventually. Make sure you don't let the sealant get onto the reflectors as it will be a major pain to remove. Just throw the sealant that is hanging over back into the channel. This is what you should end up with:

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Now if you look above, around the outside edge of the housing you can see the channel I was refering too. That dark grey material is the sealant. It is pretty tough at room temp, but very malleable when heated. By the way, those 2 semi circles on the left side of the housings are the OEM air openings. Now at this point you have 3 options:
1)You can just re-install the lens and hope by taking it on and off, the sealant will reset it self and form a proper seal (that worked when I retrofitted my headlights, but I wasn't already having moisture problems)
2) Get some new sealant. It is a rubber butyl compound, sometime called butyl tape. This is what I am refering to (http://www.theretrofitsource.com/product_info.php?cPath=31&products_id=792) The dealers and local auto store (Autozone, Advance Autoparts, Pepboys, etc...) might carry some in stock, but you may have to order it online. You can then take some and pull it into a string and feed it into the channel (adding to the original sealant). Then re-install the lens.
3) Or get the sealant, and while the housing is hot scrape out the original sealant and start over. Instead of just adding to the original, start over with brand new sealant (not necessarily required, the original stuff will soften and reseal fine usually.

Now do NOT use silicon inside this channel instead of the butyl. It will not work the way you want it too. Silicon is not good at forming a proper seal between the layers of plastic (leading to more moisture problems), and will not "flow" around the lens/screws in the channel while you reinstall the lens like the hot butyl will. Also it will make lens removal in the future very difficult and a major PITA. There is a reason why OEM manufacturers use butyl :thumbsup:

At this point you need to re-install the lens and make the housing whole, here is how:
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Resealing the housing:
First use compressed air to clean out the housing. Also make sure the reflector is clean of all dirt, dust, or anything that got on it while it was open. Reheat the oven to 265F degrees. Push the lens back into the housing as far as you can get it (it won't be close to sealing at this point) and place it into the oven for 7 min. Take it out and place clamps along the edge to force the lens back into the housing. The edges should mount back flush. While the clamps are on and sealant hot, start screwing the 9 screws back in and reengage the clips. Once they are all in, the lens is flush to the housing, and it is cool, remove the clamps.
-----------

Another thing you can try is using silicon on the OUTSIDE of the housing. There will be a ridge where the housing and lens meet. You can take silicon and run it along that ridge. It can block some of the moisture from getting inside, by blocking the path to the lens/housing seam. The silicon is not visible from the exterior of the car as it is hidden behind body panels once the headlight is re-installed.

If you tried all of this and your still getting moisture (realize it can take a day or 2 to dissipate), you might want to look into a new housing. Ebay is a good place to look for used OEM housings (its where I got mine) and you can find lots of OE housings just by googling. Probably somewhere between $100-150 for a used OEM/new OE headlight



Disclaimer: Do at your own risk. I will not be held responsible for any damage to vehicle or bodily harm when performing these modifications, or any voidage of certain parts of your warranty.
 

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That was a great write-up Sweeneyp. I don't have the problem but, if it develops I am confident that I could do it myself now with the help of your tutorial.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
OK - after reading all the 'fixes' I decided to put it back - just too big a risk of "ME" screwing it up - oven and all, lol..

Since I took it out and now put it back - The 'Remove and Replace' job is an easy one - I will just wait and see what happens next - this Highlander always garaged parked and actually, does not get driven all that much (50K in over 4 years) - I also removed Both black caps over vent holes in the rear of the fixture - see if that helps or hurts..

And I found this on Google --- does this look right??? if so, its a deal for the pair

http://www.am-autoparts.com/2008/Toyota/ToyotaHighlander/HeadLights/AM-26512177/368143.html
 
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