[Dodgertown]

I actually have a few questions

1. Just replaced my 12 years old struts with Monroe Quick Struts. It took me about 6 hours to replace all 4 corners, but I guess it's not bad since it was my first time Took the car for a test drive, everything was ok, but -
b) there is a very loud clunking noise from the front passenger side strut when going over bumps,
a) sometimes when I release brake pedal (from dead stop) I started to hear some squeaky noise coming from rear (there was no noise before strut replacement)

2. a) What is the torque spec. for rear strut lower mounting nuts? Monroe recommends 188 ft.lbs., however my repair manual says 145 ft.lbs if you reuse the old nuts and bolts. Is it ok to torque the old nuts to 188 ft.lbs.?
b) Is it really important to torque these bolts (see pic. below) to recommended spec.?

3. some offtopic info Pittsburgh brand from Harbor Freight

^good thing - this set came with lifetime warranty

 

[JohnGD]

If you reuse the old hardware then 145 lb/ft. You should be using 1/2"-drive sockets, breaker bar, and torque wrench for these nuts/bolts. If you have clunks then something is probably not tightened down properly. Have a mechanically inclined friend go over it with you. Did you torque down the mount nuts on top as well?

3/8"-drive sockets are only for lower than 80 lb/ft, that why the adapter broke. But that adapter has lifetime warranty.

The smaller bolts in the picture are for fastening sensor wiring and brake hose to the struts, they're not the cause of the noises. You can use "calibrated elbow" to tighten these. But if there are doubts about how calibrated they are then use a torque wrench ($15 on sale at Harbor Freight)

 

[Dodgertown]

If you reuse the old hardware then 145 lb/ft. You should be using 1/2"-drive sockets, breaker bar, and torque wrench for these nuts/bolts. If you have clunks then something is probably not tightened down properly. Have a mechanically inclined friend go over it with you. Did you torque down the mount nuts on top as well?

3/8"-drive sockets are only for lower than 80 lb/ft, that why the adapter broke. But that adapter has lifetime warranty.

The smaller bolts in the picture are for fastening sensor wiring and brake hose to the struts, they're not the cause of the noises. You can use "calibrated elbow" to tighten these. But if there are doubts about how calibrated they are then use a torque wrench ($15 on sale at Harbor Freight)

Thanks for your reply, John,
Yes I did torque the top mounts to 29 ft.lbs (front), 20 ft.lbs (rear), but I'll re-check the torque again.

I didn't have 1/2" drive sockets, so had to use the adapter. It actually survived after 159 ft.lbs torque but then eventually broke when I was tightening wheel lug nuts

 

[JohnGD]

Recheck the mount nuts when the car is on the ground. Sometimes the weight of the suspension components can pull the mount away a bit.

Another problem with 3/8" drive, especially any extension bar, is that they twist and you won't achieve the correct torque.

Also, unless the dust shield is bent, it shouldn't have affected brake noise.

 

[Dodgertown]

Another problem with 3/8" drive, especially any extension bar, is that they twist and you won't achieve the correct torque

But there is no way to get the lower nuts without an extension bar...unless you remove the brake disc???

 

[JohnGD]

If you used a 3/8" extension bar to tighten the strut mounting nuts/bolts (or anything > 80 lb/ft), then there's a chance the correct torque wasn't reached. So I'd recommend a 1/2" set like the following. Or look into Sears' Black Friday sale and pick up a mechanics set. In the case of the strut-to-knuckle nuts/bolts, use 1/2" extension and socket.

Also, you shouldn't have to touch the brake system except remove the mounting clips (white arrows in your picture) that hold the hoses and wires so they won't get pinched/stretched. I'd use another trolley jack or wood blocks to support the knuckle, or tie a 12awg solid copper wire from a lug nut (put a couple back on) to the subframe, so the heavy knuckle with all the brake parts won't fall flat out once the strut bolts are removed.

http://www.harborfreight.com/16-piece-high-visibility-12-drive-metric-socket-set-67988.html

But was the knuckle bolts/nuts the cause of the noises? Dunno. My guess is more toward the mount areas but I can't be sure.

Or have an assistant help listen outside the car or ride in the back and listen to the mount area - exercise necessary precautions around a moving car of course.

 

[BMR]

b) there is a very loud clunking noise from the front passenger side strut when going over bumps

Check the center nut, the one on the strut's shaft to see if it's loose. There's a pair of flats on the strut rod at the base of the threads that needs to align in the upper mount. They're easy to assemble misaligned, and then with the first few bumps they pop in, resulting in the nut not being tight. I know you installed quick struts, so this isn't likely, but it's worth checking.

 

[redgtxdi]

Wanna ask me where your noise is coming from?? I'll tell you for $1.00!

:deadhorse:deadhorse:deadhorse

Tread lightly on this thread which you are about to enter.........

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=220927

 

[Dodgertown]

Check the center nut, the one on the strut's shaft to see if it's loose. There's a pair of flats on the strut rod at the base of the threads that needs to align in the upper mount. They're easy to assemble misaligned, and then with the first few bumps they pop in, resulting in the nut not being tight. I know you installed quick struts, so this isn't likely, but it's worth checking.

Thanks BMR, what is the torque for the center nut?

 

[Dodgertown]

Wanna ask me where your noise is coming from?? I'll tell you for $1.00!

:deadhorse:deadhorse:deadhorse

Tread lightly on this thread which you are about to enter.........

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=220927

Don't scare me dude...I don't wanna replace them for 10,000 times. Unlike you, I purchased these struts from Amazon, so it's pain in the ass trying to exchange the defective one :ugh3:

Were you able to get a "good quality" strut after all?

 

[redgtxdi]

The good news is....... I can replace a strut on a Gen 4 Camry (front or rear) in about the time it takes the average person to remove a wheel. :smokin:

The bad news is.......I literally replaced 4 struts (the RF twice, rears each once & LF stayed the same) and they all had the same problem..........RATTLE!!

The perfect test was repeated abrupt undulations. Dummy dots on the road (those reflectors glued to the road) were perfect tests. If the strut was going to rattle, I simply put that side pair of tires right on the dummy dots & drove for a couple hundred feet. Within a couple dummy dots you'd start to hear the rattle & it did NOT sound good!

If you read thru all 4 pages of that thread, you'll notice I even tried to tighten the top of one of the front struts, but no success. It's definitely something in the struts or assembly thereof. I argued w/ Monroe but they simply didn't care. QuickStrut is an AWESOME idea which is just executed poorly by Monroe.

Almost 4 years later & the quiet ones I got are still quiet. It was a ridiculous amount of work but I'm happy with the 4 I've got on mine.....just not happy with Monroe about their product.

 

[Dodgertown]

The good news is....... I can replace a strut on a Gen 4 Camry (front or rear) in about the time it takes the average person to remove a wheel. :smokin:

Haha , how many times I have to replace my struts before I can get your speed? lol. As of right now, it takes me about 6 hours for all 4 corners. That's another reason why don't wanna mess up with them again.

 

[Dodgertown]

Just checked the center and upper mounting nuts = torque is ok. But noise is still there. It seems like the strut is defective. Emailed Monroe a few days ago, no response yet. Since I've purchased these struts online it's pain in the ass now to exchange them. But here is what I found regarding Monroe's lifetime warranty:

To make a claim under this warranty, return the worn-out or defective product with the dated original receipt to the dealer or retailer from whom it was purchased or to a Tenneco dealer for verification and exchange under this warranty.

Does that mean that I can simply exchange the defective one at any Tenneco dealership, i.e. local Pepboys?

 

[BMR]

That's the way I'd interpret that.