I've been of the opinion for a few years now that MOOG just isn't what it used to be. They've been more problematic, for me, in terms of reliability. I had seen fitment issues becoming more prominent as I was getting out of auto repair, too. For example, I have this old S10 that GM used the same ball joint in almost every 2WD/RWD from 1970 through 2005. MOOG's part number for it is K6145T. Once upon a time, they used to be so tight out of the box that you'd swear it was a defective part. I replaced my upper ball joints in said S10 with some new/old stock MOOG parts that I had laying around for years. Unfortunate circumstance required me to replace the upper left again after only 9 or 10 years. This second time around, I'm out of my NOS MOOG parts, so I get another new MOOG ball joint from the parts store. That new ball joint didn't fit without modifying the control arm. The basic shape and exterior dimensions of the ball joint was all fine, but the holes to bolt it in don't line up anymore.

What confuses me most is; why would you pack up your operation & move it to China, not bring the equipment with you that's reliably manufactured the exact same part for 40 years to proper specs, and do nothing about the new equipment in China that's clearly not builiding anything to any correct spec?

You shouldn't have to measure stuff out like that ever. But it's fair to say we're going to have to start getting in the routine of distrust for the aftermarket with any brand until they prove otherwise. If there's ever room for it with future parts purchases, bring the old part to the counter and make your measurements there on the spot.

 

Agreed on bringing old parts to make the comparison. In my case it would probably mean checking a junkyard car, in which case thank god I finally DD a car that reliably has 3-4 in any junkyard at any time.

I talked to a close friend who is a mechanic, and he said similar.
It kind of bewilders me still. In some cases with some parts, we're talking about specifications not changing for decades. Does that mean that for decades Moog had the wrong spec? Or did they somehow manage to change it without thinking/realizing?

If it weren't for other stories about Moog that I've heard now, I'd say that somebody put the bins of wrong bushings next to the bins of right bushings, and they skimp on cost by not checking at any point.

 

It kind of bewilders me still. In some cases with some parts, we're talking about specifications not changing for decades. Does that mean that for decades Moog had the wrong spec? Or did they somehow manage to change it without thinking/realizing?

Their manufacturing got moved overseas. Their quality control didn't make it that far though. There was an obvious correlation between part quality dwindling and the overseas production beginning. I have no idea specifically how, and I'd think it's going to be something different for a lot of individual parts. The machinery overseas that made my defective new ball joint probably had no part in making your defective new control arm. In my mind, if they were still using the machinery they used to make my ball joints here in the USA, I might not have anything to talk about here.

 

I just got some moog parts, and so far only one piece had an issue. It was the lower ball joint. One side I got it for, was missing the threads for the oem bolt to go into. The other matching part for the other side had them. Been waiting for another one to come in. Otherwise, the quality of it looked good, and it came with a better quality rubber part. All the rear arms I replaced with moog arms as well.

 

Try get another Moog arm and compare. Ive used these and had no issue... I dont recal ltere being any size / installation issues. that was just maybe a year ago or so

 

Hmm, I've had some odd parts. Moog is a hit and miss, sometimes their items are top notch, sometimes not. Moog inner tierod for my cressida as garbage, threads were distorted. Went OEM and lucky Toyota still had that side.

For the Gen3/4, I've been using BECKARNLEY 102-5030 and 102-5029 with no issues. Can't find it on RA anymore, Amazon has only one side...

 

curious how much you paid? I was going to get OEM ionners.. but at the local dealer they were $200 plus EACH!