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· Registered
162 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Finally got the motor back in after replacing all the seals. It spins, but wont start. Every 25th spin or so it will pop off and backfire but thats it. Timing is dead on, i have checked it three times. Number 1 plug is dry, number 2 is wet. Then my wife started tapping her foot cause we were suppose to be somwhere:cursin:. That being said, I havent been able to check for spark yet, and i know you need to know that.

What do you think? After four days of sweat equity, I would like the car to start. The only thing I can think of, is the exhaust fell and pulled two wires out of the rear o2 sensor behind the cat. I have to teach a handgun class tomorrow, so i wont get back to it until Sunday morning. What are your thoughts?

· ... It still runs...
246 Posts
Yeah i had that problem too when we took out engine. It could be caused by a lot of things. Haynes repair manual says this...

Engine rotates but wont start:
Fuel Tank Empty - Maybe u forgot? LOL
Battery Discharged Engine rotates too slow - If u have a volt meter id check that second.
Battery Terminal Connections messeed up - just use a wirebrush if u have to clean em and put em back on, make sure there tight, and cant be moved by hand after u check battery.
Leaking fuel Injectors, faulty fuel pump, presure regulator etc. (i realy doubt this)
Ignition componets damp or damaged. < when we put car togeather we used Electrical connection GOO it realy helps, apply it wherever u conenct stuff, keeps the moisture out
Bad sparkplug - could be but u should have at least partial firing, i would check if there IS spark at all
Brocken or disconnnected lose wiring < i cant stress that enuff, thats the killer, make sure u have it pluged in :headbang:
Faulty coil or its disconnected - Could be, i put a bunch of Electronic goo all over the connections of mine and so far so good.

Since its all electronic, if ur not getting firing it might be the FUEL or air delivery too. Thats the problem i had, u can try to start car by just spraying a SAFE EFI or carb cleaner can, its preaty cheap and if the car coughs and tries to start it must be fuel. If it doesnt, might be air or electronics, which is a pain :( Usualy electronic stuff will still let it fire a bit. If u want to check it u can plug in Computer at worst.

Proper name is Di-Electric Grease

Goodluck hope that helps:thumbsup:

· N/A bites
5,827 Posts
Number one first thing, check ALL the fuses. Too often when swapping an engine a fuse gets blown and then no spark.
Number two, what happened to old engine? Did it stop running or throw a rod or get flooded in water....?

I haven't done a DIS car yet so I'm not sure what connectors are where. That being said is there a connector near the balancer like a crank sensor? If yes get a DVM and confirm it has voltage steady coming to it. Ohm the sensor while disconnected and turn engine. Ohms should fpulse as crank turns.
Same for cam sensor at rear of head. Cam usually controls injectors so it's not as likely to cause no spark.
If these tests don't locate the problem you'll need to ohm the wires going to ECU. When putting engine in or out the harness may have been damaged at firewall.
If still no problem located try another ECU from salvage yard. Make sure same year and equipment like cruise a/c and automatic trans.

· Registered
162 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
FIXED IT! Loose ground wire coming out of the firewall to the back of the intake. So simple, but yet would not let the car start. I should have known though, when I would crank the motor I found it funny that the CEL would flicker, like a loose connection somewhere.Oh well, another lesson learned! Thanks for the help guys!
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