Ahh, that sucks. Low-cost performance rods: http://belfabracing.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=8_2_50&products_id=4 (Almost half the cost of the Pauter rods and almost as good).k will check these ideas out, my motor is knocking so I am looking into ideas before it goes, I ma trying to hit the 300,000 mile mark and im at 276,00 now not sure if it will make it
why would you go to that extreme with the 4afe block?? surely for the same amount of trouble as it would take you to get all those pieces you could get a complete silvertop??just do some research on what you want and build up the motor, i have a 4afe and am planning on using a silvertop 20v head with silvertop rods, pistons and using blacktop ecu and map along with aftermarket cams and having it tune with E-management should be a nice power project for me, am sure someone here have mod up a 7afe already.
thanks for the advice :thumbsup: but to me NA is best for me specially sence its a daily, running on low boost would be cool but we all know boost can be addictive and am gonna want to feel more boost at the wheels so to avoid this am sticking NA as for the engine when i had bought my first 7th gen ( 1994 gli ) it was a local set up car so the engine i have now which i have swapped into the car i have now ( my second corolla 1993 se limited )which had in a 1.5l 5afe engine, is swap for the 4afe why am goin the route am taking is that the guys here who built the engine used a 20v block and put the 4afe head on it this has been proven the day i called the shop who built the engine, proven again when my mechanic looked at it so i had it fully over hauled last year december because the head gasket needed to be change, orignal plan then was to get the 20v silvertop head but they where none availiable so instead of buying a whole engine not knowing how the true state of the internals are, when i can buy a port & polish head with 5 angle grind valves and brand new other parts and mate that to a block that i already know is in mint condition another reason also is that some of the guys in my country can be pretty shady when selling these engines an its parts and no one who is selling a used engine will let you tear it down to see if what they are saying about the condition of the engine is what they say it is so i prefer to take my time and stick with the plan, btw i forgot that Emanagement was a piggybak ecu i really ment something like the greddy e-manage ultimate think its the same just better than the first with more tuning abilities but that would suffice for me i drive 90% passive 10% fast .why would you go to that extreme with the 4afe block?? surely for the same amount of trouble as it would take you to get all those pieces you could get a complete silvertop??
OP, if you stick a 20v head on the 7afe block and use 20v pistons you would have a decent motor, if you wanna go boost you can look into aftermarket rods and 4agze pistons. You're best to go with a full standalone computer rather than a piggyback like an e-manage as this gives you better control for very similar money.
look into megasquirt if you know the difference between a capacitor and a diode
Daaamn. Bow down to your knowledge on this.If you stick with the 7A block, your only options for NA power (at least your only cost-effective options) are to put a ST/BT head on there. High compression, 20 valves, but you'll want to spring for rods as well so you can actually keep some of the rev limit. You'll need to get pistons with oil squirters and consider knife-edging the crank. Look up Bazda's ride on Cardomain, he's gone this route with a turbo as well and is making something crazy like 400-500 horsepower in an AE92.
As for cams, given that the FE head is slave-cam (only one driven) you're not going to be able to adjust much and anything you get will have to be specially ground. Same with portwork / spacers etc, and that's not even going into the relative inability of the stock Toyota ECU to adapt to these things in our generation of car. Low-boost turbocharging would probably be the quickest, cheapest, and best way to get a lot more grunt, given that the narrow valve angle of the FE heads means quick spooling. The 6th-gen Celica guys are old hands at doing this--a B16/B18 turbo manifold will work, all you'll need is a 4AF header flange to weld onto it as the ports are the same diameter and spacing between Toyota's A-series and Honda's B-series.
Honestly, it'll be quicker and cheaper to just do a straight 4AGZE swap if you want the torque and a blacktop/silvertop swap if you want the horsepower. The 7A block is a stroker block but nothing about the rest of the system lends itself to perfomance other than being fairly easy to turbocharge. The easy power is in intake/headers/exhaust, advancing the distributor (and upping your octane) if you've got a 93-95, and possibly raising the compression a bit.
Go to the bottom of this page: http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=360008&page=2Not trying to thread jack but would it still be possible to pass CA smog with a built 4AFE/7AFE? I'm looking at the HP kits and I've just been wondering what's the best way to gain more power and remain "street legal" here. So far, a 4AGE 20v would be out of the question out here in CA :/
Unless I get it "smogged" if you know what I mean haha.
You need the 6-speed C160 with LSD for it's short gearing to get optimal acceleration.
The gearing of the automatic will negate any power gains from the swap.
I bumped up the compression in my 7A-FE by using 4A-GE pistons, and swapped in 4AGE injectors. I now run 89 octane, and feel a difference in acceleration. I have no idea what the compression is now, and I haven't dyno'd it either, but plan on doing that soon.Looking for cams, aftermarket heads, intake manifold, throttle body, power adders, decided to stick with the 7afe for now and want to add some fun any ideas, info?:naughty: