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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
2000 Camry LE with 181k miles.

The other day, I just fixed P0172 rich condition by replacing both oxygen sensors (Launch tested as failed) with new Densos and junkyard Toyota MAP sensor, which tested a little above normal when vacuum applied.

At that time, I broke the wire harnesses' clips to the ECT and MAP sensor, but no check engine light came until today, 30 miles later. After the code came on, both were attached firmly to their wire harnesses.

When the current codes came on, I was driving around 25 mph in city, just starting up from stop light and after about 1 mile drive at 40 mph. Engine was fully warmed up and driven about 2-3 miles before the light came on.

I saw that the air intake hose is cracked at the throttle body, and I just replaced it with a new one, ie AFTER these codes came up.

These codes came up:
P0105 MAP
PO115 ECT Circuit 1
PO440 EVAP pending
P0441 EVAP pending
P0446 EVAP vent pending

I checked my newer ECT sensor (Autozone) as normal at 2,650 Ohms at room temp (2,500-3,000 Ohms is normal).

Right now, engine warm, ECT sensor reads 330 Ohms (250-300 Ohms is normal). When the engine cooled, the resistance was 1,522 Ohms (normal 2,500-3,000 Ohms). The sensor is only a month old. Do the AutoZone go badly THAT quickly?

Launch freeze frame results:
ECT 14' C
fuel system OL
short-term fuel trim = 0%
long-term fuel trim = 0%
MAP 145 kPA
0 rpm
IAT 17' C (that's about right for the ambient temperature)

According to my Launch 123 scanner, it just passed the Launch's EVAP test

What is/are the causes?

Thanks
 

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broken clips are common with plastic that's this old, I just snapped my NSS tab off after cleaning it and snapped almost every injector connector clip on my daughters 2002 Accord. I always make sure to cinch these down with a stout black tie wrap because even intermittent bouncing of the contacts will trip codes. Maybe cinch the connectors down, clear codes and see if they come back?

Also I avoid aftermarket sensors like the Covid; maybe try some real OEM units from the pickNpull, they just fit in your pocket...
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks.

I tried zip-ties to secure the wire harness to the sensor, but they don't hold.

Is there any danger of damaging the ECU if I solder the wires, engine off?
 

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Toyotas.
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The service manual gives the part number to all wiring connectors. And most are available on eBay through simply searching the part number.
 

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1995 Camry LE Wagon
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I have no idea what a CAN BUS system is.
Yes, I'm just getting into understanding it myself. It is a way for car modules to communicate through a twisted pair of wires to the ECU. The reason I mention it is from what I've learned is when many systems throw faults at the same time it could be a CAN BUS problem as the network is interlinked. Usually from what I watched the problem is frayed wires that interfere with the signals.

Watch YouTube


The only way to troubleshoot the system is with an oscilloscope to view the wave form of the signals.
 

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The service manual gives the part number to all wiring connectors. And most are available on eBay through simply searching the part number.
Which is probably your best bet, but NAPA often has these things in stock, so check there as well.
 

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1995 Camry LE Wagon
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On a year 2000 car? I don't think so (but I'm not an expert).
Probably not, but an idea I thought might help diagnose. "Google say" it was used since 1994 but only mandatory since 2008 (2001 on Euro cars) because this is a Japanese car it might have just a couple of CAN BUS Modules.
 
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