First video - car moves!
Small run down on how it all goes together. My goal is to get pictures of the next swap I will be involved with for a great in depth write up. But for now I will do my best.
Basic How to Swap
Remove Center Console
Remove all connectors on the auto tranny, along with the kickdown cable thats connected TO the throttle body. You will also need to move the dipstick (2 people makes this easy, 1 on top 1 on bottom) and remove the transmission cooler lines.
Loosen the 2 bolts for the motor mount slightly so the engine tilts back. This will allow the removal of the top 4 bolts. Remove access panel and unbolt the 6? or 8? bolts that hold the torque converter on. Remove the rest of the bolts for the transmission and slide out the whole transmission. Remove the flexplate after this step.
Now is a GREAT time to replace your rear main seal. Mine was leaking... and its like $20 or $25 for an OEM one...
Attach the adapter plate to the W58. I wound up using old bellhousing bolts and flexplate bolts for this step.
Take the Automatic bellhousing from the transmission that you just removed and bolt it to the adapter plate. You will see where you have to grind the bellhousing for the couple of bolts that are in the way and part of the front seal cover.
After some griding (you can use a drill with a carbide grinding bit, drill press... etc) you can attach it now to the adapter plate FLUSH as can be. I used the M10 and M12 bolts, washers, and nuts. Red Loctite would be a good idea here.
Place in the pilot bearing so its flush with the crank (not all the way back like I did at first, whoops) and attach the clutch/pressure plate like you would normally do.
Once all that is tightened down, you can measure the distance you need for the Howe bearing setup. Yes the Howe bearing will be on the edge of the nose cone on the input shaft, no worries. Extra spacer kit through Howe will be needed if you choose this route since the kit only comes with 5 (I think) and you need a lot more than that to space it correctly. UZA70.com will have the aluminum spacer available soon.
Spacer on. You can see the Howe spacers in the bottom of the bellhousing....
Drill 2 holes for the hydraulic lines to stick out of.
All together in its awesomeness.
After that it should be ready to go.
Slide it in... bolt it up. BAM, Emerald style, it is now mated up.
Looks like it will line it... but it doesnt. You need to cut a couple inches forward.
This is about the time I found out that you can use the SC400 transmission crossmember if you drill out 2 of the 4 holes to match eachother. 2 of them are smaller than the other 2. make them match and it works.
Probably a good time to figure out what to do with the old transmission plugs. The top right one in this picture with the 2 yellow plugs is your NSS (Neutral Safety Switch). You just bridge these together and the car will start. You can bypass it or hook it up to the pedal, whatever you want. The Speed Sensor will plug right in and works. The rest of the wires I ziptied off to the side, but can probably remove them permanently.
Exhaust back on... and ready to go.
Heres a picture with the 1uz, 5sp conversion as a whole.
I pulled the TRAC fuse (7.5amp) because 1st gear does not feel good with TRAC on... because 1st gear makes the 1uz come alive... haha