The boring that I talked about is for the hub. Since your wheels are from a lexus, the hub is already the right size.Bunthy said:Hey guys,
I have a question. I have a set fo rims from (what the guy stated on the ebay listing) a 15x7 rim from a Lexus SC300 92. The bolt pattern is the same, but when i place the rim onto the hub, only about a quarter of the bolt sticks out to be tighten. I've been driving with them for 3-4 months now. No problems yet. SBC talked about boring to make them larger. Should i do this? Where can I do this? Price? Or should I get longer studs? Thanks.
I've never had plastic hubcentric rings when I ordered wheel packages.94_Rolla_Guy said:i have a question regarding the hubcentric rims, last summer i bought aftermarket wheels that came with plastic rings, also the hub size of the wheel is quite large, the difference the rings make up is like 8-10mm, are these plastic rings sufficient or should i be looking for a set of aluminum ones
Can someone confirm if this is indeed the case. I have a 94 supra and thinking about getting some new rims for it. I went out and measured the hub and it seems to be around the 60 mm. Was asking a few online store for hub centric rings and they said it was for only 86-92 supra's and couldn't tell me if mine was indeed a 60.1mm bore or if these rings would fit mine properly. Any input on this is greatly appreciated.bgrieger said:I hate to nitpick, but not all Toyota 5x114.3 rims have the same hub size of 60.1 mm. Please note that the MK IV supra and the MK III Supra, while both sharing this bolt pattern, have different hub sizes. The MK III has been roughly measured at 60mm (probably the 60.1), where the MK IV is confirmed at a number around 62. MK IV rims, a common swap to MK III cars confirm the gap, as did one members rear brake upgrade using MKIV rotors. The pics actually surprised me as to there being a significant difference, but there it was.
Most aftermarket wheels do not require shank style lugs nuts. You can tell if you need shank style lugs by looking at the seating surface of the lug hole. If it has a flat (horizontal face) then you need shank style ones. If the seating surface is sloping down towards the hole, then you need normal cone seat lug nuts.situman said:anyone know where i can order some "shank" style lugs for my 16inch Enkei RPF1? for a 97 camry V6?
Unless the wheel requires shank lugs, you probably won't be able to even get the wheel bolted to car using shanks.situman said:can i use the "shank" style for even better fitment?
Drive at 100-120 km.hr on smooth road. You'll know if your balance is f'ed.ractive_roLLa said:very good stuff
i got a Q on tires, i got new tires replaced for my rear rims and i drove home via the 401... this was a while back, there has been no vibration or anything like that
how would i know if my tire balance is messed?
Having never owned an RPF1 or ever seen one unmounted, I cannot say that you cannot use the shank lugs.... but most aftermarket wheels do use cone seat.situman said:hey BenG my rims Enkei RPF1 16inches has both the flat surface and sloping towards the hole. so that means i can use both styles. Any clue on where I can get some of those lugs?
Can you please confirm the offset for 15x6.5 5x114.3 steel rims (Camry 02-06)?SpectraBlueCam said:TOYOTA HUB SIZE INFORMATION
5x114.3 bolt pattern (all except trucks): 60.1mm
TOYOTA LUGNUTS INFORMATION
- all OEM Toyota STEEL wheels use cone seat lugs, usually open-ended, switch to closed-ended ones to prevent rusting of the wheel studs
- lugs should be tightened to approximately 80ft/lbs, in star shaped order
Fortunately, I didn't find out about that tip from experience. Otherwise, I may not be able to type this thing.
As for spacers, 99% of them are not made properly. They are just thin pieces of metal with multiple bolt patterns drilled in. They have two main problems:
1. do not ensure sufficient lug-to-stud thread engagement; and
2. do not replicate the vehicle's hub for proper centering of the wheel.
Only use PROPER spacers that address these two problems.