stripped or no threads?
My Hotchkis sway bar...
... is in.
It's an all day job.
Spent half a day on the rear maneuvering the old bar out and new bar in. The other half a day on front is breaking loose and torquing down four big bolts.
Deployed impact and cheater bar. :lol:
Front is 4.5kg/10lbs vs. stock 4kg/9lbs
Rear is 5lbs vs. stock 4lbs
Stock sway bars measure at dia. 23/14mm F/R.
Once the rear bar is in place it is much easier to install than front. In the front the brackets have no indication on which goes which side and how. I can only go by illustrations in instructions and intuition. Then ...
One of the bolt holes on one of the bracket has stripped threads. WTF? :wtf: :facepalm: I wrote Hotchkis and I'll see if I can get a replacement. And can someone fab a 29mm bushing for the stock bracket? Just in case I have to use the stock bracket?
It's an all day job.
Spent half a day on the rear maneuvering the old bar out and new bar in. The other half a day on front is breaking loose and torquing down four big bolts.
Deployed impact and cheater bar. :lol:
Front is 4.5kg/10lbs vs. stock 4kg/9lbs
Rear is 5lbs vs. stock 4lbs
Stock sway bars measure at dia. 23/14mm F/R.
Once the rear bar is in place it is much easier to install than front. In the front the brackets have no indication on which goes which side and how. I can only go by illustrations in instructions and intuition. Then ...
One of the bolt holes on one of the bracket has stripped threads. WTF? :wtf: :facepalm: I wrote Hotchkis and I'll see if I can get a replacement. And can someone fab a 29mm bushing for the stock bracket? Just in case I have to use the stock bracket?
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
There are still some threads, but it can no longer catch. Bolt is fine - measured it with a caliper.
And I cannot reuse the stock bushing bracket in any way. They don't line up.
And I cannot reuse the stock bushing bracket in any way. They don't line up.
tap new threads? can you put a nut ontop with a longer bolt?
The bolt in question is M10x1.25. Next step up is M11x1.5, Bolts that size are not easy to find not to mention tapping that would be troublesome. (I have taps of both sizes)
There I think is not enough space on the other side to place a nut.
What if I take another M10 bolt, chop off half the bolt head, slide it down from top and mount with a nut? Will that "modded" bolt hold?
There I think is not enough space on the other side to place a nut.
What if I take another M10 bolt, chop off half the bolt head, slide it down from top and mount with a nut? Will that "modded" bolt hold?
make it a stud you mean? if you're going through all that, then grind off the nut and tack weld a new one on.
You're not screwing into the bracket, you're screwing through the bracket into the floor of the car. The hole on the car is the one thats screwed up.(without looking at your car I am almost certain this is the case) The screw holes to attach the bracket on the rear of my car were a bitch too, I had to be extremely careful not to strip that hole or break the bolt in it because I don't even know how to access that on the other side. Also did you have to drop the exhaust to get the rear bar out?
It is a mounting plate taking the place of the stock bushing bracket, which the kit's actual bracket then bolts to. That is the piece with a stripped thread. I have contacted Hotchkis and they're sending me a replacement. :chug:You're not screwing into the bracket, you're screwing through the bracket into the floor of the car. The hole on the car is the one thats screwed up.(without looking at your car I am almost certain this is the case) The screw holes to attach the bracket on the rear of my car were a bitch too, I had to be extremely careful not to strip that hole or break the bolt in it because I don't even know how to access that on the other side. Also did you have to drop the exhaust to get the rear bar out?
It took some acrobatic moves, but I did NOT have to drop the exhaust! :clap::banana:
Ah, okay I see what you are saying now. I forgot about the extra mounting bracket. And you must have skill to get that thing out without dropping the exhaust, it seemed impossible for me to do it.
when i first did my hotchkis sway bar set, if i put the rear to the hardest setting, it would snap the tab where the endlink attaches to the strut right off. i had to carefully spot weld the tab onto the strut body better so it wouldnt rip off, and i had to be careful not to heat up the strut too much.
just did this yesterday with a jack and jack stands. , crazy.
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
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