My TRD machine (56kers...This will take time)

-Gridlyne
I think the engine looks tilte because of the way I was holding the camera.

-Phi
Yes I appear to be low on coolent, thanks!

Dyno numbers

Tested stock in November at:
151 whp
171 ft-lbs

Tested SCed in May at:
192 whp
198 ft-lbs

I cant find my dyno sheets, but when I find them I can scan them in if you guys are so interested

^i agree

cat-back exhaust & jpp headers would do wonders to free up some power & give that s/c some air to breathe...

and one other thing...do you have the nice cold denso iridium spark plugs too? those would really work well for your s/c application.

were your results on the stock 5 psi pulley as well?

not trying to be pushy here, you seem happy with the numbers & you may not be trying to squeeze every pony out that you can

Keri

The big limiting factor is the $$ (Isnt it always?)

The SC (stock pulley), the sway bar, and tower brace is all I got

Don't fret, I got more plans.
Yes I plan on getting the JPP headers eventually
I'm going to look into the plugs subject (Right now its stock)
Amongst other things...

I also think the dyno was registering a little low (the viper came in a little low.) They were having some problems with their equipment. One of my runs put me at 202whp, but they needed to switch probes or something cause the data was acting wierd (when I find my dyno sheets I can show you what I mean), but the next 4 runs had me at the 192whp. They used a big ass clamp to hold the air-fuel probe in muffler which blocked off like 2/3 of the exhaust, which may have had an effect (I'm not trying to make up excuses, really!)


Be pushy! Give me more ideas!

trypsix said:

The big limiting factor is the $$ (Isnt it always?)

The SC (stock pulley), the sway bar, and tower brace is all I got

Don't fret, I got more plans.
Yes I plan on getting the JPP headers eventually
I'm going to look into the plugs subject (Right now its stock)
Amongst other things...

I also think the dyno was registering a little low (the viper came in a little low.) They were having some problems with their equipment. One of my runs put me at 202whp, but they needed to switch probes or something cause the data was acting wierd (when I find my dyno sheets I can show you what I mean), but the next 4 runs had me at the 192whp. They used a big ass clamp to hold the air-fuel probe in muffler which blocked off like 2/3 of the exhaust, which may have had an effect (I'm not trying to make up excuses, really!)


Be pushy! Give me more ideas!

Click to expand...

i understand about the dyno...sometimes things like that happen if the machine itself is not properly calibrated...its a shame too since you had stock baseline numbers to start from.

i haven't been able to dyno my car yet, i have a 4 banger auto so realisitically i hoping for numbers somewhere around 110whp, but i hope to go the forced induction with a turbo someday soon...$$$ money is also a factor with me too unfortunately

as far as other things you might want to consider...if you decide to go with a higher boost pulley 5.5 - 7 psi you will probly want to get a Apex-i SAFC to help tune the engine so you will make sure its not too rich and not too lean as far as air/fuel ratios go.

along with the colder spark plugs some thicker silicone coated ignition wires will help to lessen resistance to give you a better spark...does this translate to more hp? not really, but the less resistance you have electrically speaking the better the engine will idle, the better your gas mileage will be etc. so there are benefits again all my opinions...others can & will argue otherwise, these are only my personal findings.

you may also want to think about a type of homemade Cold Air Intake...as we all know colder air does = more hp

that's about all i can think of for now, my brain is fried after tearing my interior apart today to do some custom work

Keri

trypsix: You and Keri pretty much touched on all the basics (plugs, headers, intake, exhaust, A/F ctrl). I will disagree with Keri's recommendation about aftermkt spark plug wires. I'd say stick to OEM. I think you just got a poorly calibrated dyno.

Invest in some sort of A/F controller (ie. Apex-i or Split Second). I got 10whp from my SAFC unit. It'll help later when you upgrade fuel delivery @ 7psi

btw- what kind of gas were you running?

Here's my dyno if you're interested (copy and paste URL):

Stock: http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid37/pd2fd1bc488a62b8e9ec02145859bf048/fd1c1e89.jpg

SC'd: http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid62/p0f49e7b6657a67c094a4ace1a357fea2/fc217a5f.jpg

I'm using 93 oct

I found my dyno sheets
Ah yes, I bought some coolent. Good ol' toyota factory red

these are pretty big
this is the 1st run with some wacky data at the end

http://www.wam.umd.edu/~edchen/ftp/dynorun1.jpg


these 2 runs the torque readings didnt work, the air fuel was plotted with the hp graph

http://www.wam.umd.edu/~edchen/ftp/dynorun23.jpg


This is the last run
http://www.wam.umd.edu/~edchen/ftp/dynorun4.jpg