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1995 Camry LE Wagon
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Discussion Starter #1
A/C quit today. Clutch makes a bad one time sound when A/C turned on and does not engage compressor. Blue dash light blinks. I jumped the clutch and got it to make the same bad sound but result was still no compressor. Belt is fine. Cold air was also fine and strong just before this happened, so I think it's not the 134a charge.

I think it needs a new clutch.

Question is can this be done while compressor is still in the vehicle? And do I need the SST tool shown in the manual to remove it?

Thanks
 

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'00 4 Cyl. Auto Camry LE
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991 Posts
It looks like you would Still. Both SST tools 07112-76060-01 MAGNETIC CLUTCH STOPPER $ 50.00 and 07112-66040-01 PRESSURE PLATE REMOVER $ 9.44 are available for order on the toyota.service-solutions.com website.

Never tried a Toyota: but tried, and failed miserably attempting to change an A/C clutch out w/ compressor on vehicle on an Oldsmobile Intrigue w/ "MacGuyver'd tools" recommended on one of the Olds forums. Ended up pulling the compressor off, and swapping w/ a reman'd unit. It was cheaper to swap w/ reman'd unit, vs. the SST tools $$$, or having a shop rebuild. Hope the info helps.
 

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Premium Member
1993 Camry SE,V6-5MT
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Hopefully this thread will help you:
 

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1995 Camry LE Wagon
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Discussion Starter #4
Hopefully this thread will help you
PERFECT! Thanks a ton.

All "kits" on Rock Auto come with pulley, which I don't need - I'm guessing. AutoZone has just the clutch for $21. I'll know better when I get it apart.

Will follow up.
 

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Camry, Vibe, Venture
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534 Posts
There is a bearing in that front part that comes off when you pull the clutch and you may want to replace it (if the new clutch assembly doesn't include the bearing). I can't remember the details but I remember I banged out the old bearing and then took it all to a specialst Auto A/C shop and paid them $30 for a new bearing and for them to press it back in. And as already mentioned above, I was able to do this without disturbing the charge. It was very tight though and I think I put a scratch or two on that inner fender.

I got one of the loan-a-tools from AZ to pull the clutch and recommend you get that on hand too.
 

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2004 Toyota Camry, 2017 Toyota Camry, and many many more lol
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I’d replace all of it you are already going to have it down that far might as well replace it now while it’s down
 

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1995 Camry LE Wagon
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Discussion Starter #8
There is a bearing in that front part that comes off when you pull the clutch and you may want to replace it (if the new clutch assembly doesn't include the bearing). I can't remember the details but I remember I banged out the old bearing and then took it all to a specialst Auto A/C shop and paid them $30 for a new bearing and for them to press it back in. And as already mentioned above, I was able to do this without disturbing the charge. It was very tight though and I think I put a scratch or two on that inner fender.

I got one of the loan-a-tools from AZ to pull the clutch and recommend you get that on hand too.
Thanks for follow up. Car in garage this morning and reading clutch write-up before tacking. FSM compressor section does not mention bearing but I'll find it if it's in there and make a decision then.
 

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1995 Camry LE Wagon
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Discussion Starter #9
I’d replace all of it you are already going to have it down that far might as well replace it now while it’s down
Yes, I can see that, but until I see the condition of the pulley I may leave that. All kits include new pulley except for AZ clutch only. As well there are a couple snap rings that apparently are non-reusable.
 

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1995 Camry LE Wagon
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Discussion Starter #10
I removed the belt and jumped the compressor to do a test turn by hand.

Compressor turns quite easily with clutch engaged. How easily should it turn? I don't think it should be a easy as it feels, but I don't know if it's the clutch totally slipping or maybe something wrong with the compressor.

My experience with pumps is piston pumps should be hard to turn. Is the compressor a vane pump?
 

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1995 Camry LE Wagon
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Discussion Starter #11
Here is a picture of the end of the pulley. Notice the, what looks like burnt rubber around the shaft.

I ended up removing the upper rad hose, much easier to maneuver the compressor. Clutch1.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Looks like it may have gotten a little warm at one point lol
Taking a closer look I think that's dry hardened grease. After I took the pressure plate off there was more around the inside of the pulley where the bearing is. But I think you're right, seems like a lot of heat.

I used a electric impact gun to remove the center bolt and my standard c-clip pliers to remove both snap rings. Little tap with a small mallet and all came apart easily. No SST required.

I ordered the UAC Kit ($88.20 with tx & USPS) from RockAuto. This kit was in the middle of prices and comes with new snap rings, center bolt, and shims. I have to assume new pulley bearing is installed as I can't see from picture. Considering this compressor is original that's not bad, just hope this fixes it. But if not I'd replace the clutch on a new compressor anyway.
 

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Taking a closer look I think that's dry hardened grease. After I took the pressure plate off there was more around the inside of the pulley where the bearing is. But I think you're right, seems like a lot of heat.

I used a electric impact gun to remove the center bolt and my standard c-clip pliers to remove both snap rings. Little tap with a small mallet and all came apart easily. No SST required.

I ordered the UAC Kit ($88.20 with tx & USPS) from RockAuto. This kit was in the middle of prices and comes with new snap rings, center bolt, and shims. I have to assume new pulley bearing is installed as I can't see from picture. Considering this compressor is original that's not bad, just hope this fixes it. But if not I'd replace the clutch on a new compressor anyway.
I have had good luck with the kits from rock auto on my personal vehicles so hopefully it will work good for you and too
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Just two more added pictures with all parts removed. This was actually an easy dismantle. Hope the re-install goes as good.

Clutch3.jpg Clutch2.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #17
FIXED!

When doing this be prepared to solder the new wires to the old connectors. The kit wires do not have connectors AND the ground wire was too short to reach the screw attachment. I would not recommend crimp connectors as this area sees water. Also use glue infused shrink tubing over soldered connections.

Assembly was easy with new C-clips (snap rings) and center bolt - all non-reusable according to the FSM. Be careful with the C-clips as there is a bevel on one side of the larger one which needs to face out toward you.

Special tools are not necessary unless you think snap ring pliers are special. I used my small electric impact driver to torque the center bolt.

Thanks to all who helped me with this, especially the original link.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
One afterthought. There are shims that are inside the pressure plate shaft. Easily missed. The kit came with 4 new shims of different thickness. The FSM says to use a dial indicator to measure the spacing but that's difficult.

My original pressure plate had two shims so I just used them to match the thickness of the new shims and called it a day. So far it works.
 
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