[tgibbs94]

Hello from Phoenix, everyone.
I have a 2004 Tacoma 2.7 Liter, crew cab. 127000 Miles
Fresh oil change on Oct 13.
October 20th, traveling down the highway at 70 MPH engine started to squeak and quickly lost power. Oil light came on. Pulled off to side of highway. Checked oil. Right on the Full line. Had it towed back to house.

I'm guessing the oil pump failed but I really don't know. I asked a mechanic what the cost would be just to replace the oil pump and timing chain. $3000. We didn't talk about a complete rebuild. Ugh!

I paid $7000 in May 2019. Looking online for the same truck. Not many out there. Found one with 197507 miles for $14,249 ! Jeez!!

Not sure what I should do next. What kind of damage do you think was done? Is this going to require a whole rebuild?
What would you do in this situation? Junk it? Fix it? Buy a remanufactured long block? I really liked this truck. Sad to see this happen.
Engine noise video

 

[CamPoo]

Did mechanic listen to it also? If so what did they say? Hard to say from a video, could be different things.
Already checked for any obstructions around belts/pulleys? Not sure if it sounds like rod knock (those are really loud, can be heard down the street) or if this is something higher up on engine.

Any metal bits in oil when checked?

If you have to replace engine, maybe a 3.4?

 

[Pvt-Public]

Sounds like a thrown rod or spun bearing to me. That noise is known in the trade as “the death rattle”. So yes I think it is toast. Just my opinion. Unfortunately a partial is needed to confirm and then you’re just out $$ that you’ll never recoup. Quick way to check for a thrown rod is, take out all the plugs and turning the crank by hand (ignition off of course) and verify all the pistons are moving up and down.

 

[tgibbs94]

Did mechanic listen to it also? If so what did they say? Hard to say from a video, could be different things.
Already checked for any obstructions around belts/pulleys? Not sure if it sounds like rod knock (those are really loud, can be heard down the street) or if this is something higher up on engine.

Any metal bits in oil when checked?

If you have to replace engine, maybe a 3.4?

I hadn't started it yet at the time I called the mechanic. Recorded the video on Saturday so I will send the video to him Monday. No obstructions at all around belts and pulleys. Been wanting to drop the oil pan and check for bits. Just haven't had time yet.
I like the idea of putting in a 3.4.

 

[tgibbs94]

Sounds like a thrown rod or spun bearing to me. That noise is known in the trade as “the death rattle”. So yes I think it is toast. Just my opinion. Unfortunately a partial is needed to confirm and then you’re just out $$ that you’ll never recoup. Quick way to check for a thrown rod is, take out all the plugs and turning the crank by hand (ignition off of course) and verify all the pistons are moving up and down.

Oh boy... Death Rattle. YIKES! 😄😖
A friend of mine has a borescope. He said we could look down in the cylinders but I don't know how much that will reveal unless there is some really catastrophic damage. I've never used one before but am curious to just try it out.
I'll definitely try turning the crank and watch the pistons.

 

[Pvt-Public]

A friend of mine has a borescope

A borescope is nice, but I wouldn’t use that to see piston movement. Use something like a wooden dowel, about 10” long. Put it in through the spark plug hole and just watch it go up and down. If it doesn’t go up and down in a cylinder That’s the thrown rod.

 

[tgibbs94]

A borescope is nice, but I wouldn’t use that to see piston movement. Use something like a wooden dowel, about 10” long. Put it in through the spark plug hole and just watch it go up and down. If it doesn’t go up and down in a cylinder That’s the thrown rod.

Cool! I will do that. Thank you for that tip!

 

[new echo owner]

Except for the noise, the video shows that the engine is running relatively smooth, is that correct?
If that is the case, you probably have a spun rod bearing; engine will idle rough with a broken rod.
Disable the cylinders one at a time, by disconnecting the plug to the coil, the engine will knock less when you come up to the cylinder with the spun bearing!

 

[XiaoHu]

As you're in AZ, there's no rust really to worry about. Assuming you have time, tools and a few pals, do what I'm doing and DIY the repair.

If I was close I would offer to help replace the engine, but I ain't. But I'll cheer for you. This truck is probably worth saving. I replaced an engine in my friend's hardbody, Took 3 days with the proper tools working 8 hours. If we had to do it again? 2 days easy. We didn't do a good job labeling stuff, mostly. What I would do is buy 2 rolls of masking tape, mark a number on two pieces per number, and use that and a checklist to keep track of it.

 

[new echo owner]

Why replace the engine when it only has 124k/
Depending on what is wrong with the engine, there are different options;

Including replace the damaged rod and installing a crank kit, if it is just a spun rod bearing:

2004 Toyota Tacoma 2.7L Engine Crankshaft Kit 964800 -25

2004 Toyota Engine Crankshaft Kit,2004 Tacoma Engine Crankshaft Kit,Toyota Tacoma Engine Crankshaft Kit,Toyota 2.7L Engine Crankshaft Kit,Tacoma 2.7L Engine Crankshaft Kit,2004 Toyota Tacoma Engine Crankshaft Kit,2004 Toyota 2.7L Engine Crankshaft Kit,2004 Tacoma 2.7L Engine Crankshaft...

proenginerebuilders.com

 

[tgibbs94]

Except for the noise, the video shows that the engine is running relatively smooth, is that correct?
If that is the case, you probably have a spun rod bearing; engine will idle rough with a broken rod.
Disable the cylinders one at a time, by disconnecting the plug to the coil, the engine will knock less when you come up to the cylinder with the spun bearing!

Wow! I'll try that. Thank you! And it is running fairly smooth, yes.

 

[tgibbs94]

As you're in AZ, there's no rust really to worry about. Assuming you have time, tools and a few pals, do what I'm doing and DIY the repair.

If I was close I would offer to help replace the engine, but I ain't. But I'll cheer for you. This truck is probably worth saving. I replaced an engine in my friend's hardbody, Took 3 days with the proper tools working 8 hours. If we had to do it again? 2 days easy. We didn't do a good job labeling stuff, mostly. What I would do is buy 2 rolls of masking tape, mark a number on two pieces per number, and use that and a checklist to keep track of it.

Yeah, The truck has no rust at all and is in very good condition. I have a friend with know-how and tools and I'll definitely need his help but this Thursday he's flying out of the country to be with his mother because she had a stroke.
He'll be back in 3 to 4 weeks depending on how things go. Still need to get an engine hoist and stand. Once I'm able to get on this project, I'll definitely heed your advice and label everything, keep a list, and take pictures.
Thanks! I definitely need all the cheering and well wishes I can get!!

 

[tgibbs94]

Why replace the engine when it only has 124k/
Depending on what is wrong with the engine, there are different options;

Including replace the damaged rod and installing a crank kit, if it is just a spun rod bearing:

2004 Toyota Tacoma 2.7L Engine Crankshaft Kit 964800 -25

2004 Toyota Engine Crankshaft Kit,2004 Tacoma Engine Crankshaft Kit,Toyota Tacoma Engine Crankshaft Kit,Toyota 2.7L Engine Crankshaft Kit,Tacoma 2.7L Engine Crankshaft Kit,2004 Toyota Tacoma Engine Crankshaft Kit,2004 Toyota 2.7L Engine Crankshaft Kit,2004 Tacoma 2.7L Engine Crankshaft...

proenginerebuilders.com

Thank you for the link. Yeah, I'm going to attempt a rebuild. Planning on purchasing an engine hoist and stand this week.
Harbor Freight has them. I just hope they aren't made from recycled soda cans!

 

[dnmir54]

Hello from Phoenix, everyone.
I have a 2004 Tacoma 2.7 Liter, crew cab. 127000 Miles
Fresh oil change on Oct 13.
October 20th, traveling down the highway at 70 MPH engine started to squeak and quickly lost power. Oil light came on. Pulled off to side of highway. Checked oil. Right on the Full line. Had it towed back to house.

I'm guessing the oil pump failed but I really don't know. I asked a mechanic what the cost would be just to replace the oil pump and timing chain. $3000. We didn't talk about a complete rebuild. Ugh!

I paid $7000 in May 2019. Looking online for the same truck. Not many out there. Found one with 197507 miles for $14,249 ! Jeez!!

Not sure what I should do next. What kind of damage do you think was done? Is this going to require a whole rebuild?
What would you do in this situation? Junk it? Fix it? Buy a remanufactured long block? I really liked this truck. Sad to see this happen.
Engine noise video

reman would be the way to go

 

[chembarreto]

Consider a used JDM 'complete engine' from Japan. The laws there disfavor owning old cars (because of strict inspections, rust and sky high repair costs), and Japanese drivers encounter mostly short commutes. Low mileage engines and trannies can be shipped here at reasonable prices; lots of importers in California. Google your engine designation and 'JDM'. One complication is that you may have to strip the engine wiring harness from the american car and transfer it to the JDM (and some sensors) in order to communicate with the american computer (different emission setups). My son and I successfully transferred a JDM Honda prelude engine and its attached 'LSD' manual transmission into an American 1998 Prelude. He loved the LSD feature, which his car did not have. $2300 plus small parts (ten years ago). We were happy with the results. I consider JDM parts availability to be a great reason to buy used Japanese cars, in case of a catastrophic mistake (hidden engine or tranny problem) there is reasonably inexpensive fix, which restores teh car to a low mile condition. My tests and observations revealed minimal wear on our JDM motor, just barely broken in.

 

[ram62olds]

tgibbs94, if you need to replace the engine you may want to contact AAA used parts in Phoenix. Tony is real helpful and he has mostly Toyota trucks in his yard. Call (602) 276-1200 valsMMC!

 

[ajahrens]

I would be very suspicious of an engine failure one week after an oil change.

If it were me, I'd be submitting a sample of the oil to a lab to 1. See if it is the correct oil for my engine and 2. to see what metals are in the oil, which should give useful information about the failure.

 

[XiaoHu]

Consider a used JDM 'complete engine' from Japan. The laws there disfavor owning old cars (because of strict inspections, rust and sky high repair costs), and Japanese drivers encounter mostly short commutes. Low mileage engines and trannies can be shipped here at reasonable prices; lots of importers in California. Google your engine designation and 'JDM'. One complication is that you may have to strip the engine wiring harness from the american car and transfer it to the JDM (and some sensors) in order to communicate with the american computer (different emission setups). My son and I successfully transferred a JDM Honda prelude engine and its attached 'LSD' manual transmission into an American 1998 Prelude. He loved the LSD feature, which his car did not have. $2300 plus small parts (ten years ago). We were happy with the results. I consider JDM parts availability to be a great reason to buy used Japanese cars, in case of a catastrophic mistake (hidden engine or tranny problem) there is reasonably inexpensive fix, which restores teh car to a low mile condition. My tests and observations revealed minimal wear on our JDM motor, just barely broken in.

It's stupid IMHO, that Japan, Western Europe etc. have draconian inspection/emissions laws. It destroys history. How many are crushed or exported to third world countries?