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'07 Tacoma PreRunner
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Allllllrightyyy. So I finally wanna upgrade my crap speakers to really reliable and nice ones. I was looking into the Kicker brands. The 6 1/2" RS65.2 components are priced at $399.99 where I work... but since I'm an associate there, I get em for $100!! And the 6"x9"s 055KS693 are $50, msrp is $150.00. Talk about lucky! OK, one question is why my rears are going to be more expensive than my fronts.

I need a clear explanation about crossovers and separate amp. I'm not a total noob about this stuff, I had a sound system in my '96 T100 and it was just to get by. I changed out the speakers and HU to Sonys, Rockford Fosgate 500.2 amp, 1 farad RF cap, 12" JL Audio W3s and a JL competition wedge enclosure. That gave my head a bumpin I will never forget.

So this time, I'm going to get everything new and not gonna half-a$$ the installation. I wanna get the best there is (if not, then close to the best) So bit by bit it will be done. But with the help from you guys, I know I won't be doin this blind-folded :clap:. So uhhhh, any comments??
 

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Use the search function and read over cams large thread on this topic. Are you getting them through the accomodations program?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
rmcclean12 said:
Use the search function and read over cams large thread on this topic. Are you getting them through the accomodations program?
I'm getting them at cost =). And thanks, didn't think this would've already been discussed because it is personal to what components I want. As far as the info goes, i can research that. But was wondering why the rears are costing me more than the fronts.
 

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Hey viet2100, I can help a little.
First off, you rears are more expensive than your fronts because generally, 6x9s are always cheaper because there are less parts and don't sound as good as components. You can also buy an adapter from Tacotunes that will let you put 5 1/4" or 6" coax or compontents (as long as thet're axis mountable) in the front door.
Second, component speakers always come with a seperate crossover. It seperates the lows from the highs. If you have crazy amounts of money lying around, you can toss the included x-overs and use a 4 channel amp for just your components. Then use the built in x-over in the amp to seperate your lows from highs. 6x9s have a built in x-over, so you can just plug 'em in and you're ready to rock. Generally you also need a seperate x-over to keep the ultra lows (<100Hz) from distorting and blowing them, but that will be done with either your amp or your head-unit. The same is the case for the components as well. Does that answer your question, or are you looking for more technical answers?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Oh sweet dude. I greatly appreciate your input digijohnson. Alright, so I will be using crossovers until I get a 4 channel amp (Kicker). And when I do, what do I use to send the audio signal to the amp? Just regular stereo cable? And whats the easiest way to wire the speakers up to the 4 channel amp? And I guess I will be changing the fronts to 6 1/2"s too.
 

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You might want to consider running a bigger guage speaker wire and also Mr. Marv can make you custom MDF baffles for you front, rear and tweeters. He makes them specific to the speakers you are buying so the fit will be perfect. Not all speakers will work with the tacotunes baffles. I would reccomend changing the fronts to 6.5's I think you will get a little better sound quality. There is lots, and lots of info on this forum about the stuff you are inquiring about. You will just run speaker wire from amp to the speakers you are amping and your amp will be connected to your HU using RCA cables.
 

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viet2100 said:
Oh sweet dude. I greatly appreciate your input digijohnson. Alright, so I will be using crossovers until I get a 4 channel amp (Kicker). And when I do, what do I use to send the audio signal to the amp? Just regular stereo cable? And whats the easiest way to wire the speakers up to the 4 channel amp? And I guess I will be changing the fronts to 6 1/2"s too.
Running a dedicated channel to your tweeters and woofers may be a little extreme. It is done, but it's not very practical, especially considering how much/little space we have for amps. The only reason people ever bi-amp their components is because they get more power out of two seperate amps, and have better control over the sound. You should be fine with just using the included x-over...It's designed for the speakers.

The head unit you buy will have RCA outputs for front, rear, and sub. This is the part to not be cheap about lest ye hear alternator hum. 6 ch RCA cables should cost about $100 if you want the cheap but good ones. The expensive, but probably just as good ones will run you about $300. Go with the $100 ones from Streetwires.

Definitely go the route of round speakers vs. oval. They won't distort in the same wierd ways that 6x9s do. If you go 5 1/4" the Tacotunes will be fine, if you go 6", you'll need to either modify them or buy them from this Mr. Marv.
 

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Tacotunes and Marv can make 6.5" baffles. They can also make baffles to fit 7" or even 8" woofers in our doors. Just keep the speaker depth under 3.5" or the magnet will hit the window glass.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks PB, I was also wonderin how deep I could go. The speakers I'm gettin are 3-3/16"s so I'll be good there. I'm going to be having 6.5"s all around, I'm gonna take digijohnson's word and stay away from the 6"x9"s.

What is the size of the door tweeters'?
 
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Where do you work? Can you get Pioneer Premier?

I don't think I'd really rec. Kicker...

I wouldn't rec. using rear speakers either.

If you are going to use a 3/4" front spacer your max mounting depth is around 2.9"

I tried a Peerless Exclusive mid set and the mounting depth was 78mm(3.05"), they rubbed the window when rolled down all the way.

If you use a 1" baffle you will be able to mount a speaker that is 3.25" give or take.

I would highly rec. the Premier TS-C720PRS set for the front doors and no speakers in the rear.

They are under 2.9" mounting depth.

If you can't get those, what other brands can you get? Can you get Alpine, SPX-177R, or if you are patient, wait for the new Type-X set, they are going to be using a mid similar to the slit coned Scan Speak mids.

Type-X speakers now come in two categories: Type-X Pro and Type-X Reference. The Pro speakers, the SPX-13PRO and SPX-17PRO, feature a hybrid cross-rib glass fiber woofer cone with aluminum phase plug for flawless sound reproduction. Experience smooth, silky highs with precise imaging and staging capabilities from the 1.25-inch swivel-mounted ring radiator tweeter. The Reference speakers, the SPX-13REF and SPX-17REF, combine premium sound with an easy-to-install design. A lightweight cross-rib aluminum woofer cone offers more installation options such as a coaxial mount tweeter bridge. Reference speakers also feature a full 1-inch ring dome tweeter and compact high-grade external crossover network with level and bi-amp capability for flexible installation.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
cam2Xrunner said:
Where do you work? Can you get Pioneer Premier?

I don't think I'd really rec. Kicker...

I wouldn't rec. using rear speakers either.

If you are going to use a 3/4" front spacer your max mounting depth is around 2.9"

I tried a Peerless Exclusive mid set and the mounting depth was 78mm(3.05"), they rubbed the window when rolled down all the way.

If you use a 1" baffle you will be able to mount a speaker that is 3.25" give or take.

I would highly rec. the Premier TS-C720PRS set for the front doors and no speakers in the rear.

They are under 2.9" mounting depth.

If you can't get those, what other brands can you get? Can you get Alpine, SPX-177R, or if you are patient, wait for the new Type-X set, they are going to be using a mid similar to the slit coned Scan Speak mids.
I wish I didn't have to go with Kickers, but they're the only caru audio brand I get a discount off of. I work at Circuit City and get everything at cost + 10%. Anything else in the store/website, I just get 10% off. I'll be going with the 1" baffle to mount the speakers. And why not any speakers in the rear? I have passengers back there too lol.
 

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Yeah, it would be a lot easier if you buy a speaker that's no deeper than 3". I had to make some special baffles and mount the speakers at an angle to fit my 3.5" deep mids in there. I should have mentioned that.
 

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Well first off not all component sets come with crossovers. Majority do but some cheaper ones do not. A high or a low pass filter or crossover can be broken down to a simple capacitor and resistor circuit. And sometimes that stuff is soldered right to the terminals of the speaker.

As far as dismissing 6x9's I would not be so quick. If you are running amps with built in crossovers you can filter out all of the low end bass like < 120Hz. This will eliminate alot of distortion and driver bottom out. 6x9 design has been around longer than alot of us. The difference in sound quality from a good oval speaker to a good round one will be minimal. Other reasons for the price difference will be because of the supplied crossover and may simply be that 6x9's are alot more common than the componet speaker.

JL makes some really nice stuff. I got a Civic with 5.1 surround using all JL speakers and amps. It sounds very good. Using JL factory component crossovers, 6x9's in the rear, a channel of amp per speaker and using good cables. That's all you need
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Pb said:
Yeah, it would be a lot easier if you buy a speaker that's no deeper than 3". I had to make some special baffles and mount the speakers at an angle to fit my 3.5" deep mids in there. I should have mentioned that.
Even with 1" baffles, it still won't fit 3-3/16"s?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
cam2Xrunner said:
How about Kickers SS series? They will fit.
Are they better than the RS series??

Coastgardsman said:
Now you guys got me wondering. I was looking into swaping out my stock speakers and put after markets. Do I have to buy those damn adapter plates too? Or can a I just go with a set size out of the box?
I think you'll need to baffles because most aftermarket speakers are deeper and if you want to change them all to 6-1/2". Aftermarket speakers OWN factories any day :lol::lol::lol:
 

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Coastgardsman said:
Now you guys got me wondering. I was looking into swaping out my stock speakers and put after markets. Do I have to buy those damn adapter plates too? Or can a I just go with a set size out of the box?
You have to buy adapter plates because the stock speakers are not standard speaker sizes or mounting patterns. The front speakers have a 1" spacer built in and adapts a 7x10 speaker to the door panel. The rears also have a 1" spacer built in and adapts a large trianglular hole to a 6" (i think) speaker.
 
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