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Discussion Starter #1
I am needing to find a how to, or information on which capacitors for the ECU to purchase.
The ECU is Toyota 89661-06150 from a 5S-FE-ECT. It also has the number TN175700-5233 12V.
My car is a:
1995 Toyota Camry
LE L4 - 2.2L 2164cc GAS MFI vin S type 5S-FE - 4 valve DOHC
One of the ECU capacitors leaked, and I read that I need specific electrolytic capacitors for automotive application.
I've found some links to specifics on the 1st gen camry, and from a lexus forum, but I was hoping for exact information for this 1995 ecu before purchasing them. I've read that the ebay ecu fix capacitors are not the correct ones.
This is my first Toyota, so I don't know where to find good information like I have with my Hondas in the past.
I'm still not for certain that this is my problem, but I do know at least one of the capacitors is bad.
Thank you in advance. (Full story follows)


Story: I was given a rough condition, non running 1995 Camry, which I was told was running perfectly, until they purchased a new battery then it wouldn't run anymore. They replaced the fuel pump with a new one. (They recommend I haul it to a scrap yard.) I replaced the spark plugs, plug wires, distributor cap and rotor, fuel filter, fuel pump relay, and checked their new fuel pump. The Camry would start and run great for two and a half minutes then bog out and die, and wouldn't start until several hours later. I found that it had a car alarm that was still active (which I was told was disabled) and its immobilizer was kicking in. I pulled the alarm out, now the car starts and runs. It sounds like the timing is off. When I floor the pedal, it stumbles and bogs down, even sitting in park or neutral. It also seems to have a rev limit at 4K RPM. Someone suggested that the catalytic converter was clogged, and to pull the o2 sensor, which I did, and did not seem to affect the 4K limit. When I first start the car, it will rev fine all the way up to redline, until it warms up. I purchased a timing light, jumped the TE1/E1, set the crank mark on 10. But it still feels like the timing is off. The car will stay running now, but still bogs down. It will shift through the gears down the road, but has no power. It will not go above 50 MPH. I found a similar problem on a Lexus Forum:
All my crazy Lexus issues SOLVED!! (ECU-leaking capacitor)
As well as:
How to Replace the Capacitors in a 1G ECU

I pulled out my ECU, and found one of the capacitors did have a dark liquid spot below it, and it did indeed smell like rotten seafood. So if nothing else, this capacitor does need to be replaced.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Capacitor numbers i can see are:
47µF @ 63V , 105C
3.3µF @ 50V 44A , 105C
10µF @ 50V 43E , 105C
33µF @ 35V 45A , 105C
100µF @ 10V 45A , 105C
220µF @ 10V H9323 , 105C (This one is bad)

The number inside on the board is: 175731-5230
 

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Caps with visible leaks need replacing, but all the caps are the exact same ages so they should all be replaced. They are all leaded EL caps which means they have thin wires that solder into holes drilled through the board. For this reason you need to know their lead spacing; you can make the wrong lead spacing work but its much easier to solder the correct lead spacing onto the board.

You do a couple things to replace EL caps:

desolder old caps this means you heat the solder on back side of the cap holes until just liquid and then remove it with a wick OR a solder sucker, sometime you can heat both leads and pull off cap but its better to remove solder first THEN cap

make sure holes are clear this is best done with a solder sucker

place new cap leads into the holes this means in the CORRECT ORIENTATION the caps are polarized one lead is POSITIVE (+) and one is NEGATIVE (-) take photos before you remove old ones if the board doesn't have +/- holes marked

solder leads to board this means heating the wire leads while touching them with high quality (lead) rosin core electrical solder, the liquid solder wets the hot metal of the leads and the board making a smooth solder joint

cut the extra leads off the cap use flush side cutters ideally leaving no protruding lead wires to short out against the ECU case

you need a temperature controlled solder iron, it should be just hot enough to melt solder, and small. Using a super hot or over big iron and you can destroy the ECU board
you need a solder sucker or braid
you need good electrical solder

here is a whole kit for $9

watch DIY videos for details on desoldering etc. good luck

Mouser has caps that will probably work well for $1.72 (more with shipping)

Mouser #: 647-UHE1H100MDD1TD Nichicon Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Radial Leaded 10uF 50V $0.29
Mouser #: 647-UHE1A221MED Nichicon Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Radial Leaded 10volts 220uF $0.31
Mouser #: 647-UHE1V330MDD Nichicon Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Radial Leaded 35volts 33uF $0.28
Mouser #: 667-EEU-FR1J470 Panasonic Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Radial Leaded 63volt 47uF $0.33
Mouser #: 667-EEU-EB1H3R3SB Panasonic Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Radial Leaded 3.3uF 50volts $0.32
Mouser #: 647-UHE1A101MDD Nichicon Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Radial Leaded 10volts 100uF $0.19
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thank you guys for the info. I ordered some, I'll post back up the results after installing them.
 

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I would get them via digi-tech. It's a certified supplier and big brand capacitors. Also easier to find the exact specs of caps.

I would replace all capacitor that you can reach and replace. capacitors can be bad and look 100% fine. Ones that are leaking...well they for reals gotta go..
 

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In the US I would only trust Digi-key and Mouser
to have non-counterfeit caps; Amazon and Ebay are full of them!
Caveat Emptor!
 

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When shopping for new capacitors, it is OK to get new ones with a higher voltage rating than the original, but the other specs need to be the same or very close to the same. Usually bad capacitors start to bulge a little before they actually leak, and if so need to be replaced.

When soldering the components, to prevent the heat from the soldering iron from damaging the component, a heat clamp can be used.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thank you for the tips everyone. I finished soldering up the board last night. Will try it out a little later this morning when the rain stops.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The board soldered up great. The Capacitors looked good. Hooked up the computer. Let the computer have time to I guess "learn the new components." The car started right up. It sounded like the timing was wrong again, but it idled. I let it warm up, then gave it some throttle and it would rev up past 4K. I thought my problem had been solved. It does drive down the road, but it is very low on power still. I jumped the E1&TE1 block, to set the timing, and the car died. It will not idle with the jumpers set. So I cheated the idle up ever so slightly to keep it idling to set the timing.

Once I take the jumper off, it does idle on its own, but it is very rough. So I pulled the number 1 plug wire, and the engine kept running. I replaced it, and pulled number two, and the engine died. I put back, restarted. There is no difference in engine idle with the number 1 or 3 wires pulled. However the engine dies if either 2 or 4 are pulled. So I will need to trace if & why number 1 and 3 are not getting spark.
 
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