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Need help car stalled out and now it won’t drive but it still runs

431 Views 17 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  Demoncow666
I have an 07 Toyota Camry le v6 I was driving back from work and my car stalled out so I pull to the side of the road and start it back up again put it in drive and gave it gas but the car didn’t move … has anyone had this happen to them or know how to fix this problem
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It initially sounds like an internal transmission problem. Just do some basics for now. Check the transmission fluid level if you can. I'm pretty sure your car still has a dipstick. Search YouTube for a how to if you need. Try shifting it manually through all the gears & see if any of them grab at all or move the car.

Has there been any other recent driveline work done? Any CV axles replaced maybe?
the linkage may have an issue and it is not selecting the proper position, or a sensor.
Died while driving, then transmission issue on startup. Smells like an issue with your Computer.
i second the computer, have it towed to a actual shop or dealer and have her diagnostics
If it is the computer and you want to try and save some serious cash, I recommend a refurbished plug-and-play replacement from Flagshipone. I used them in the past and it worked and saved me big time. They also offer a lifetime warranty. Also look at the wiring/harness/plug at the computer, maybe it came loose, dirty, wet etc. Are you getting a check engin light? If so, get the codes read and find out what you are getting, When my computer went out, I would get loss of power, stalling, shifting issues, dash gauges going haywire etc. I got codes for trans, code indicating a problem with the throttle position sensor and other items, It will throw up codes for components that are working just fine.
I would start with cleaning the throttle body....
well, hold on. if ya press the gas does the engine rev up?
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It initially sounds like an internal transmission problem. Just do some basics for now. Check the transmission fluid level if you can. I'm pretty sure your car still has a dipstick. Search YouTube for a how to if you need. Try shifting it manually through all the gears & see if any of them grab at all or move the car.

Has there been any other recent driveline work done? Any CV axles replaced maybe?
ya recently changed both cv axles

And no dip stick on this one but I know it’s full
How exactly do you know it's full of it doesn't have a dipstick?
well, hold on. if ya press the gas does the engine rev up?
Ya and if I floor it in drive the wheels will barely move
Sounds like your out of fluid or your transmission is wasted
How exactly do you know it's full of it doesn't have a dipstick?
There’s a fill plug on the side and when I pull the plug it’ll leak out alil
Now it sounds like it's severely overfilled cause that's not how you check the fluid on that transmission
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Died while driving, then transmission issue on startup. Smells like an issue with your Computer.
Would a camshaft sensor do it or wheel speed sensors cause it threw codes for both and I tested them with a Multimeter and the speed sensors say they’re ok but the camshaft position sensor says it’s bad
Make sure those newly installed CV joints didn't pop out. I can't specifically recall this happening on a Camry, but I have met the occasional half shaft that can fall out enough to decouple from the splines driving it while still appearing to be installed. A quarter inch is a long way in certain contexts. Both shafts need to be locked into the differential or it'll just freewheel in the case. I doubt a shaft popping out could have stalled the engine. But I can't prove it would or wouldn't, so I have to keep an open mind from here.

A cam sensor would have nothing to do with a total loss of transmission engagement. Where there's a mechanical shifter, there's always an accompanying manual valve in a traditional planetary style automatic transmission. When that manual valve is in any position other than park or nuetral, fluid pressure is trying to make parts work that move the car no matter what. Limp mode for most transmissions means that it's operating on a default gear dictated by that manual valve. That usually means you're only driving in 2nd or 3rd gear from start to finish, but you're moving.

Where your transmission is concerned, you should check your shifter linkage at the transmission. Make sure the end is still secured to the ball stud and there's no significant play in the socket end of the linkage. If there are any other troubles at the other end of shifter you forgot to tell us about, we need to know it. Do you still feel the detents ratcheting as you shift from one position to another? Does it still feel like it's fully locked into the intended gear? Did you lose park and forget to tell us?

If there's room to rule out shift linkage problems, you're most likely down to an internal transmission problem. That means a hydraulic circuit problem in which something is not getting fluid pressure because said hydraulic circuit is possibly stuck open or closed when it shouldn't be. That could mean something as simple as a seal blew out in a drum or one of any number or valves hung up in the valve body. You might have a clutch failure, but those generally present themselves over time as slipping and flare shifts, not abruptly. If it is an internal transmission problem, I'd bet on a band or a hard part failure. I couldn't tell you how cheap or expensive that could be without doing some exploratory surgery.
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Now it sounds like it's severely overfilled cause that's not how you check the fluid on that transmission
My snooping says 2007 was a transition year. 2006 still had the 3.3, whereas the 2007 got the 3.5. Transmissions were also redecorated for it. I don't know much of the specifics except to say you're checking fluid without a dipstick starting in 2007.
the transmissions on the ones without a dipstick have a straw looking thing in the drain pan. the way to check it is ya have the engine running and the transmission, not the engine but the transmission has to be within a certain temperature, ya remove the drain plug, if no fluid comes out, ya add some through the fill hole until it comes out. if it has to much fluid it will drain out until at proper level. the way this works is then the transmission is within a certain temp. range the fluid will be at the top of the straw looking thing that's proper fluid full level. also the vehicle has to be completely level while doing this
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