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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The timing belt broke on my wifes 01 solara 2.2L Auto (5S-FE Engine) and I have been following the write up by Trioxide1
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...ment-w-pictures.html#/topics/428257?_k=ngefea

on how to change the timing belt and I have replaced the oil pump oring and seal, water pump crankshaft seal and camshaft seal. I still need to install the tensioner, idler pulley and the belt. but before I do all of that how do I determine if the engine is at #1TDC compression vs exhaust and how do I set the camshaft to be in time to the crankshaft. I know about the timing marks but am unsure how to determine tdc and how to ensure the camshaft is set correctly.

If anyone knows of a write or is willing to walk me thru it I would greatly appreciate it.

Thanks

Travis
 

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The engine does not care. When the top cam is in the correct position with the timing mark the valves are correct and when the engine cam is at TDC combined with the valve cam all is correct. I've broke a few belts in my day and never had a problem. As a small tip, you can loosely install the lower cover and crank pulley, set engine at TDC, remove cover and pulley and make some additional reference marks on the block. That makes it easier to determine if anything has moved without putting it back together. Additional reference marks on the valve cam also make life a little easier but always do your final check with a mirror using the engine marks. There are also some threads addressing belt installation you might find interesting. It involves instaling the belt one tooth off and setting the tensioner so everything lines up when the tensioner is released.
 

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I'm used to engines that are non-interference. If your 01 is non-interference then you're OK. If interference, then you might want to understand on setting time so valves don't hit top of piston. Cam position might have to be at a certain point to install.

As far as engine not caring, to be clear, the crank doesn't care as there is only one crank TDC, TDCC only happens with cams connected to crank via belt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
according to Toyota my 01 is a non-interference motor otherwise I would not even attempt this repair.

Normally I do not mess with timing belts but we were quoted $600 for labor with us providing the parts I decided to try it myself.

I am hoping that with the write ups that I have read and printed and the advice here I can finish this repair and get the wifes car back on the road.
 

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Timing belt jobs are kind of scary for some, but if you have the right tools (I stress this), it will make your job so much easier . tbh, even if you do get all good parts (Aisin parts), all the seals, tools and some food/beer, you should still end up with extra money for the other stuff such as valve cover gaskets, fresh (correct) coolant, and misc hoses if you replace them for about the same as charging the shop to do it.

Since your doing the job, I'd recommend all the seals along with the oil pump seal and the O-ring for the oil pump. They sometimes develop a nasty oil leak for the 5SFE.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I am replacing all of the seals and o-rings and the water pump. I had to stop yesterday and go to tractor supply to get a couple washers and nut to use to push the camshaft seal back in.

I am reading the post you mentioned now...unfortunately the firewall here at work will not let the pics show for some reason.
 

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I was worried about getting things off by 180 degrees.
Thats only a problem if you have a distributor.

You can confirm TDC using a screwdriver or rod in the #1 spark plughole. DO it carefully since the screwdriver can get cocked in the hole. I typically do this to make sure the marks on the harmonic balancer are correct.

-SP
 

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Thats only a problem if you have a distributor.

You can confirm TDC using a screwdriver or rod in the #1 spark plughole. DO it carefully since the screwdriver can get cocked in the hole. I typically do this to make sure the marks on the harmonic balancer are correct.

-SP
Just make sure the screw driver is long enough and won't fall into the hole :)

But yes, I did this trick when my Cressida belt gave out. I used a long screw driver and made sure when I was at the TDC that it was really the Cylinder 1 at TDC.

Thats only a problem if you have a distributor.

I did not know that thanks for the information. This is the first non-interference motor I have ever owned.

Thanks again everyone for your help.
Don't you love non-interference motor? It's very forgiving for the most part when comes down to timing belts.
 

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Don't you love non-interference motor?
i love NI too but my 06 I4 has a chain. i love that even more. i can see and tell when the water pump is going and not just replace it cause i'm doing the tb...cause there ain't none.
tony
 

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Don't you love non-interference motor?
i love NI too but my 06 I4 has a chain. i love that even more. i can see and tell when the water pump is going and not just replace it cause i'm doing the tb...cause there ain't none.
tony
That is true. Water pumps are more easy on the 4 cylinder for the 2AZ...as for the 6 maybe....not.
 

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TDC is determined by the camshaft. TDC is TDC on the crankshaft.

Once you get the #1 piston up to TDC, you are good to go ahead and set the cam timing.
 

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You got another user account?
Yeah. When the passwords were all reset, I didn't have access to the email account that I used to register back in 2009, so I can't get to the email.

Admin didn't seem eager to help me regain access (replied to one email in 2 months), so I went ahead and made a new account.
 

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If you want, I can let the admins know that you'd like your old ID back.
 

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according to Toyota my 01 is a non-interference motor otherwise I would not even attempt this repair.

Normally I do not mess with timing belts but we were quoted $600 for labor with us providing the parts I decided to try it myself. .
Holy Crap! 600.00 for labor???? I need to raise my prices.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I am now having trouble getting the timing marks to align at 0. When i get to about 5 before tdc it gets hard to turn the crank and when it does turn it zips right past 0. I have removed the spark plugs but that does not seem to help. Any suggestions?

Thanks
Travis
 
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