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Do Work!
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Discussion Starter #1
Here's a summary:
Whenever I put my key in the ignition and turn it over to the "on" position, sometimes the "check engine" light will not come on. When I proceed to try and crank up the truck, the engine just turns over and never actually cranks up (as if the key hasn't been programmed, but the problem is not the key.).


A combination of these lights and the lights below are what are supposed to come on when the key is turned to the "on" position.


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I gave the summary because this part may get a little lengthy. The wiring harness circled is next to the fuse panel below the steering wheel and can be accessed through the little flip down compartment left of the steering wheel. It is also the source/solution to the problem. The reason it is the solution is because, when the truck does not want to crank up, i can reach in grab the group of wires and wiggle them and the "check engine" light will come on and i can crank the truck up. But that also tells me that the problem is somewhere in the wiring of that harness or those wires.



I have had the truck at my local toyota dealership and the technician told me that those three black and red wires are the only wires that can cause the truck to not crank up if they come loose. You can see that the one on the far left has had a piece of metal or something jammed in there to 'help' the connection (just an example of Ralph Hayes Toyota's half ass work). I do, however, believe that they are the problem because i completely disconnected that wire and plugged the harness back in and, even though the "check engine" light still came on, the engine would only turn over and not crank up. So this tells me that that wire is not the only problem. Also, there is another wire that has a problem because sometimes the airbag light will not come on, but when i jiggle the wires it will come on and off.

Another interesting thing is that most of the time when the problem occurs, it's during the heat of the day. So I'm kinda wondering if there's a break inside the wires, and the heat causes the plastic sheath to expand and seperate the connection.

Here's what I need help with:
I'm taking the truck to another shop first thing in the morning to have them work on it, but I just figured that I'd try and get some help off of here because i'm really anxious to get the problem fixed. Based on the information I've given, if anyone can come up with a reason for my problems, and any time of solution. If you can tell me whether you think the problem is inside the wire itself, the wiring harness, the pins in the wiring harness (somewhat been worked on already though), or anything else. Also, if you have an opinion as to what the problem is, explain why you think so so that i can run it by the technician at the shop. If you need any other information to help me with my problem just let me know. I really appreciate anybody who's made it this far with my rambling, and any information you may have is appreciated. I'll take any information you have, even if it's not a solution...for example if anybody knows where i can find a wiring schematic for these particular wires, because i'd kinda like to work on it myself also. Thanks alot!

Andrew
 

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I'm not sure if Toyota uses the same feature, but my wife's Pilot had a similar problem. In fact, sometimes it would just randomly stall as she was driving down the road. Honda looked at it and said it had something to do with her key being "deprogrammed" for the vehicle immobilization. They made a new key for us. It didn't help the problem. In the end, they had to replace the whole device in the steering column. We haven't had a problem since.

Probably not the same thing, but worth a look. Her Pilot would crank, but never turn over and actually start. It was also intermittent. I don't know much about the wiring itself.
 

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just a nobody
Echo
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Did anyone ever test or check the tension of the terminals to make sure that they are making good contact? If the terminal tensions are good, it is possible that the fuse/junction block itself has an intermittent open circuit.

N.E.O.
 

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Do Work!
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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
I'm not sure if Toyota uses the same feature, but my wife's Pilot had a similar problem. In fact, sometimes it would just randomly stall as she was driving down the road. Honda looked at it and said it had something to do with her key being "deprogrammed" for the vehicle immobilization. They made a new key for us. It didn't help the problem. In the end, they had to replace the whole device in the steering column. We haven't had a problem since.

Probably not the same thing, but worth a look. Her Pilot would crank, but never turn over and actually start. It was also intermittent. I don't know much about the wiring itself.
Yes, mine use to cut off while i was driving, but for some reason it hasn't done it in a long time. But it would cut off while i was driving, and then it wouldn't crank up after it cut off (that was before i knew about the wire jiggle technique.). They actually replaced the whole ECU in my truck thinking that was the problem, and they had to reprogram the key as a result of that.
 
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