[97camarynyc]

My rack is leaking and going to replace is once the weather gets warm,i would like to know what brand you all have used and had good luck with it.
i don't want to do the job more than once.I have a friend suggest going with oe one but the price is too steep.Thank you in advance.

 

[sdspeed]

Bought one from these guys 2 yrs. ago for my MR2, so far so good. 90 day warranties seem to be the norm so I couldn't find an advantage to paying more for the same unknown outcome. Maybe I got lucky but the car is my wife's DD.

https://www.carparts.com/details/Toyota/Camry/Replacement/Steering_Rack/1997/REPT289504.html?TID=gglpla&origin=pla&utm_source=google&utm_medium=pla&utm_campaign=221983653&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI9e274KLh5wIVKx6tBh1ZTA58EAQYASABEgIT0_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

[Cressidaadr]

I went with an A/C Delco reman and it has been fine for the past three years. I had some problems getting the passenger side flex mount to line up and had to swap the one over from my old rack. The one you linked looks like it may be just as good and you have some experience with them too. As you know it's somewhat a crap shoot with these racks.

It took me most of the day but I also ran into one of the tie rod ends was rusted on. It's been nice to have one now that does not leak all the time

 

[White95Cam]

Posters #2 & #3 did you support your engine and drop the sub frame to change your racks?
W95c

 

[Stillrunning]

I bought mine from "CarSteeringwholesale in 2009 with 160K miles. Never have had a problem. I think the price included the return core shipping. This was a re-man of course.

As to "support engine - drop subframe", no I did not. But the job is not easy for access and requires a small swear jar.

Warning!! Make sure the alignment shop does not twist your boots when doing the alignment - this has happened to me twice. The first time the shop replaced the boots, second time I was able to un-twist myself.

 

[norm356]

"did you support your engine and drop the sub frame to change your rack?"

I supported my engine and dropped the whole subframe, giving super awesome access to everything (unbolt the ball joints from the lower control arms, unbolt the engine supports from the subframe, remove the exhaust front pipe, separate the tie rod ends from the uprights, undo the steering rack from the column and undo its two hoses). This kind of thing is best done while supporting the body from the front of the rockers (jack stands + 6~8" 2x4 with 3/8" wide x 3/4" deep groove cut to go over the pinch flange).

While the subframe is laid out on the floor (lower control arms and sway bar still attached to it), it is also easy to swap out the sway bar bushings and its end links. Also, if there happens to be anything needing addressing in the engine support department those are all dangling free. This also gives free access to the power steering pump, usually nightmarishly buried beneath and behind the engine.

But, most don't do it this way because slipping it in from the side saves several steps.

Norm

 

[insightbrewery]

Warning!! Make sure the alignment shop does not twist your boots when doing the alignment - this has happened to me twice. The first time the shop replaced the boots, second time I was able to un-twist myself.

I ran into a different problem recently when I did a rack replacement and front suspension on a gen1 Tacoma. Used Moog rack boots, come with zip ties...greased the collars to ease install. Guess I tightened the zip ties too much, non-vented boot, when they came back from the alignment shop they weren't twisted but they were vacuum-collapsed due to the stretch. Lol. Pulled on one edge and corrected the bellows folds, then untightened the zip tie on the rack side just one tooth

 

[JohnGD]

Look on rockauto for NEW aftermarket racks. The BBB one has 3-yr warranty while Ultra Power is a popular one with 1-yr warranty (heart symbol). Search up a 5% off code in the sticky section.

Rebuilts may be a crapshoot. IMO AC Delco is an overpriced reboxer.

My rack is leaking and going to replace is once the weather gets warm,i would like to know what brand you all have used and had good luck with it.
i don't want to do the job more than once.I have a friend suggest going with oe one but the price is too steep.Thank you in advance.

 

[JohnGD]

Also, maybe leave the outer clamps loose and see if the shop is smart enough to put them back after they’re done.

 

[pentiuman]

I DON'T recommend them for quality, but for price, for my 96 Camry I got a Cardone reman from Amazon - again the only reason I went w/ them was because at that time they had a $110 rebate, making the rack & pinion only about $11.88! (I just looked at my receipt, and just got the check about 2 weeks ago). The part went in smooth - (and works great so far), except the clamp for the boot was twisted out of position just a little bit, which I noticed before installation but didn't think anything more about it until I had several other bolts in, and of course, this clamp, which I could have straightened in < a min. before installation, was in a hard to reach spot. So I had to take other bolts out, to fix this alignment, which the Cardone techs were sloppy with. AS OF THIS WRITING, THE REBATE FOR THE RACK & PINION SPECIFIC TO MY 96 CAMRY ISN'T AVAILABLE - But I think it comes and goes.
Cardone 26-1690 Remanufactured Import Power Rack and Pinion Unit
Cardone also has $30 rebates on many of their remanufactured brake calipers, making them cheap - only $2 on one side of my Nissan Altima. BUT, one of them was defective - it would stick sometimes and it took me 2 weeks to figure out the cause. So I was going to go through a return process, but when I found out they had no limit on the rebates, it was cheaper just to buy another, send back their new one as the core, and get another $30 rebate - so it only cost me another $2 (besides my time and anguish).

When I did my rack & Pinion replacement, I put my steering wheel straight, of course, and after measuring the distance from the end of my outer tie rod to some specific inner point of the rack on each side, counting the threads exposed before removing my outer tie rods, and counting the turns to remove them, I removed the outer tie rods before trying to remove the rack and pinion - less stuff to get hooked on. Same going back in. And I protected the threads of my new inner tie rod ends w/ electrical tape until it was time to install the outer tie rods. And after getting all the parts back on, despite my careful and slow attention and determination, one wheel wasn't absolutely straight, so I then I first aligned that wheel by eye, then took a break. Next day, after watching alignment videos, did the string method and I dialed in that wheel toe-in until it was perfect. My car steers great, including turns and over bumps. - My car had already been aligned recently, and I don't drive very many miles each year, watching the wear patterns, so I'll be fine.

 

[JohnGD]

How what a deal! For $11 and change why not, but as you found out, remans can be sloppy.

 

[97camarynyc]

Finally I replaced my steering rack with a cardone one.It was not easy as the intermediate shaft was frozen and I had to use a air hammer to get it off the rack.I wanted to free it up on the bench but the steering joint going to the rack was shot not from me using the air hammer but someone else had replaced the rack at one time before I got the car.I was able to find a good used one on ebay.Fill the system with dexron II trans. fluid from Walmart.Also I cleaned the ps reservoir and fill the system and all is good for now.Now I have to wait to register the car and then get a wheel alignment done..Overall it wasn't a bad job if you have the right tools and patience.Also tie the steering wheel while the front wheels pointing straight so when you disconnect the steering shaft the steeing wheel cannot be turned.Otherwise if the wheel get turned more then once you might break the clock spring for the airbag.Also make sure the new rack is centered before installing.