Need very hot temperature motor oil suggestions.

I'd recommend German Castrol Syntec. Wait, No, this isn't the phony Group-III hydrocracked oil that Castrol is selling under the Syntec name in the usual grades. This one comes only in the 0w-30 grade, but when hot, it specs out at the high end of the 30 wt range, almost qualifying as a 40. It's called SLX in Germany, and it meets the ACEA A3 spec (which means it should hold up for about 10,000 miles). So far, I've only seen it in the states in Autozone stores. But you have to be careful, as there's a US made 0w-30, distinguished by a yellow-detailed label, that's sometimes mixed in with the German Castrol. Check every bottle for "Made in Germany" on the back. This stuff is a hard-core Group IV/V Synthetic that has performed beautifully in my V-6 Camry.

Want some objective indication of its performance? Here's a used oil analysis report I just got back from the lab. The oil produced fantastic results over 5,300 miles in the almost-hot-as-Texas heat of Gulf Coast Louisiana and Florida. Here's the report (I posted it in another thread in the Camry section, my apologies for the double):

trust me, Oil Is OIL

all that green Wonder shit is why touareg and and Cyans get mottor sawps more often then any other SUV i know. im sory but that green crap need alital more R&D im shure on paper is cool, but go into the shop and see what it dose 60k later.

Oil has a simple job, and when you start geting all complicated with the weight and type you need to realize that a billion more man hours went into that exact problum and thats why your book tells you the weight to use.... sythetic is nice but thats becuse it LASTS longer. if you need to use oil that changes weight acording to temp, thats just scary as hell. i know as a gear head that a mottor will have X gap between all moving parts, and that those gaps need to let oil flow threw them. using an oil of Y weight i can inshure that those gaps will be lubricated. the only thing i need to wory about this tempture.. witch i can easly control with the use of coolers.

id rather burn oil and leek it as apose to burning no oil and not leeking it. burning tells me its geting to all the little parts. and leeking tells me that to. dont get me wrong leeking oil is never a good thing, nore is burning a large amount of it. but any one who troubles them selfs over leeking a bit of oil and or bruning alital is just asking for more problums if the go ahead and change the weight.

another thing people dont understand. WARM UP YOUR FREEKING CAR. if you drive your car often and dont have time to warm it up, just drive it so that it dosen go past more then 3000RPM's this gives the oil time to warm up. along with the coolent. floging a cold mottor is what hurts cars the most, and no magic oil is going to fix that.

Zrain said:

trust me, Oil Is OIL

all that green Wonder shit is why touareg and and Cyans get mottor sawps more often then any other SUV i know. im sory but that green crap need alital more R&D im shure on paper is cool, but go into the shop and see what it dose 60k later.

Oil has a simple job, and when you start geting all complicated with the weight and type you need to realize that a billion more man hours went into that exact problum and thats why your book tells you the weight to use.... sythetic is nice but thats becuse it LASTS longer. if you need to use oil that changes weight acording to temp, thats just scary as hell. i know as a gear head that a mottor will have X gap between all moving parts, and that those gaps need to let oil flow threw them. using an oil of Y weight i can inshure that those gaps will be lubricated. the only thing i need to wory about this tempture.. witch i can easly control with the use of coolers.

id rather burn oil and leek it as apose to burning no oil and not leeking it. burning tells me its geting to all the little parts. and leeking tells me that to. dont get me wrong leeking oil is never a good thing, nore is burning a large amount of it. but any one who troubles them selfs over leeking a bit of oil and or bruning alital is just asking for more problums if the go ahead and change the weight.

another thing people dont understand. WARM UP YOUR FREEKING CAR. if you drive your car often and dont have time to warm it up, just drive it so that it dosen go past more then 3000RPM's this gives the oil time to warm up. along with the coolent. floging a cold mottor is what hurts cars the most, and no magic oil is going to fix that.

Click to expand...

Z:

You make some good points, but when I've seen a couple hundred of these reports that DO show significant differences, well, I'm going with those. Please go here and see for yourself: Used Oil Analysis Reports

You're right about engine starting. Failure to warm up properly can cause significant damage and shorten engine life. Gentle warmups help greatly. So does a Group-IV/V synthetic that has absolutely zero wax in it. Once the pour point depressants in a mineral oil deplete (usually one of the first additives to "wear out," as they're pretty unstable), the wax that remained after refining can significantly slow oil flow as the engine warms. Group-III hydrocracked oils (mineral oil "extra"refined and sold as syn) are also getting better in this regard.

You're also right that no oil is "magic." I never said any was. I mentioned the green color for fun, and I think that should have been clear. What matters is performance. Performance can be measured by the type of report I posted. Do you have any similar evidence to back up your opinions?

You also said, "if you need to use oil that changes weight acording to temp, thats just scary as hell." Not really. All oils, multi-grade or straight weight will change absolute viscosity with temperature. This characteristic is measured by us with a standard known as Viscosity Index. Engineers try to improve durability and performance by specifying an oil that will both flow acceptably when cold, and keep metal separated when hot parts are moving at high speed. Synthetics, by the way, have a naturally good VI, and unlike most mineral oils, don't need a bunch of unstable sludge prone additives to make them "multi-grade."

And you said, "any one who troubles them selfs over leeking a bit of oil and or bruning alital is just asking for more problums if the go ahead and change the weight." For the most part, you're right. I'd agree that you should stay within mfr recommendations for oil viscosity. That said, and although I probably wouldn't do it, I've seen plenty of UOA lab reports that indicate you're just fine using a slightly thicker or thinner oil, if conditions (very extreme heat or cold) dictate.

Well, that's probably enough for one post... . In truth, there's less absolute difference between oils than the oil advertising folks would have us believe. On the other hand, there's just no comparison between the abilities of a good synthethc (Mobil, Motul, Redline, Ams, etc.) and a $0.79 el cheapo you find in the convenience, as long as the good oil is used within its limits (no oil is magic or perfect).

Edited for typo.

Since Blek asked for a recommendation for his Tundra, here's the recent report on my wife's '01 Sequoia. If Blek's Tundra has the V-8 option, this is exactly the same engine. This is with 5w-30 Mobil-1. Oil has gone 4,200 miles and been in for about eight months. Note the very low wear and still-high TBN (acid absorbing ability). This engine uses absolutely zero oil, and has been on twice a year oil changes all its life (post break in). BTW, all those "big" numbers are part of the Mobil-1 formulation, not wear metals.