k...so i was pullin out of the wawa tonight and decided i would drop it into neutral rev it while i was moving 5 mph and then drop it back into drive and floor it...well...the tires sqealed and what not..the tranny seems to shift normally and i was jus wondering actually how bad this is for the tranny
Neutral Drop tonight...how bad?
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very bad. dont do it again if you want your tranny to last
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does it affect manual or automatic?
autos only, manuals are "somewhat" designed for that...sortof...ok not really, bu tyou can easily do them in a manual without too much harm to the tranny...using the clutch of course.
heres my method of launching a manula...
rev to 3500/4000 RPMS wth car in 1st and clutch depressed.
dump the clutch at ~4K for either: a big smokey burnout...or a grippy, quick takeoff. did it many times int he contour, though it was more often big smokey bunrnouts than quick controlled launches LOL.
heres my method of launching a manula...
rev to 3500/4000 RPMS wth car in 1st and clutch depressed.
dump the clutch at ~4K for either: a big smokey burnout...or a grippy, quick takeoff. did it many times int he contour, though it was more often big smokey bunrnouts than quick controlled launches LOL.
Manuals break clutches, A/T's burn their fluid. When the fluid in an A/T dies, everything from the planetary gearset to the torque convertor is up to break.
You just have a 4cly I wouldn't worry about it. Like I've posted before I had a buddy who's mom had a '95 4cly camry. He would go 5-10mph in revers then WOT slam it into a drive position. Car would float backwards spinning both tires for a second, then the car would spin forwards spinning one tire. He must have done it a few hundred times. His mom still ahs that same ugly ass white Camry too. Just goes to show what good flushing does. =)
I've done it a few times in my ES too. I get two wheels front and back LoL! Course that's still apthetic 'cause mom's A/T Maxima spins both tires WITHOUT power braking, and lights them both up if you power brake it.
If you're worried flush the fluid. If you plan on doing stupid things, or a lot of racing, go spend $40 on a big tranny cooler and have the entire transmission flushed with new fluid.
Just remember... The first slip in a transmission means it's dead and needs to be torn apart!
btw the harder you are on the tranny, the quicker the rest of the drivetrain breaks too. CV joints, axles ect...
You just have a 4cly I wouldn't worry about it. Like I've posted before I had a buddy who's mom had a '95 4cly camry. He would go 5-10mph in revers then WOT slam it into a drive position. Car would float backwards spinning both tires for a second, then the car would spin forwards spinning one tire. He must have done it a few hundred times. His mom still ahs that same ugly ass white Camry too. Just goes to show what good flushing does. =)
I've done it a few times in my ES too. I get two wheels front and back LoL! Course that's still apthetic 'cause mom's A/T Maxima spins both tires WITHOUT power braking, and lights them both up if you power brake it.
If you're worried flush the fluid. If you plan on doing stupid things, or a lot of racing, go spend $40 on a big tranny cooler and have the entire transmission flushed with new fluid.
Just remember... The first slip in a transmission means it's dead and needs to be torn apart!
btw the harder you are on the tranny, the quicker the rest of the drivetrain breaks too. CV joints, axles ect...
I've tried that before, won't work with a 5sfe camry, it breaks free from the brakes too easily, at least mine does.Toysrme said:
I'm thinking it has to do with the front disc rear drum either that or I think I may have brake fade, not quite sure though.
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It's your brakes Mark. I can do it. I hold it to about 3,000RPM for launching, and there is no way your 5s is putting down more torque than my 3vzCrawlingEye said:
Get some new pads. Both of our cars have front disk, so you having rear drums doesn't really matter.
As for your tranny, doing it won't kill it instantly, but it will cause the speed that your tranny wears. Your looking at killing your tranny pretty quick. All for a 1 second sqeek
I think it's time for some hawks or KVR pads. These Raysbestos seem to be wearing rather quickly.
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manual- put it in 1st gear foot off brake but hold cluch in so car doesnt move, rev and let off clutch quickly.
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Someones looking to burn out their clutch pretty quickToyotaMan1281 said:
It's stupid to do with an Auto or a Standard. True burnouts can be done in 2nd gear by just flooring it. Build up your car, then worry about smoking the tires.
dumping the clutch quickly is not as bad as feathering it out...SmokingTiresV6 said:Someones looking to burn out their clutch pretty quick
It's stupid to do with an Auto or a Standard. True burnouts can be done in 2nd gear by just flooring it. Build up your car, then worry about smoking the tires.
if you dump it, it will wear out quicker that normal driving. but if you feather it for more than 50 feet or so at every launch...it will beunr int up FAST
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how can it burn out the clutch? and whats that mean
feathering the clutch is Slowly (like riding it) letting out the pedal to prevent wheelspin. it has the same effect as ridingt he pedal, but worse because the engine is overpowering the wheels/trans. you are using the clutch to harness that power, but in the meantime you are also burning it up.
bottom line is, its ok to do a CLutch dump oncein a while, but NEVER OK to do a neutreal drop on an Auto. an auto tranny has more than 12,000 moving parts (some) and when you drop from neutral to drive, all of those parts SLAM together.
somebody that knows more about auto trannies can probably explain it better. this is my first auto i have ever owned.
bottom line is, its ok to do a CLutch dump oncein a while, but NEVER OK to do a neutreal drop on an Auto. an auto tranny has more than 12,000 moving parts (some) and when you drop from neutral to drive, all of those parts SLAM together.
somebody that knows more about auto trannies can probably explain it better. this is my first auto i have ever owned.
but is it ok to shift to neutral and shift to drive?
I do it sometimes because when I'm holding down my brake at a red light, the car starts shaking a bit.. it seems to idle alot better when in neutral.
My friend told me that I'd kill my tranny like that
When the light turns green, I just rev to like 1k rpm and shift back to drive.. any big deal?
I do it sometimes because when I'm holding down my brake at a red light, the car starts shaking a bit.. it seems to idle alot better when in neutral.
My friend told me that I'd kill my tranny like that
When the light turns green, I just rev to like 1k rpm and shift back to drive.. any big deal?
That's no different than power braking in transmission damage. If you power brake the torque convertor it let's the engine rev to the stall speed.
If you do a N drop the torque convertor jumps to it's flash speed and then goes (assumeing you're at low rpm under the stall speed)
As long as you're doing either one of those, you're fine. The problem with neutral dropping is when you drop above the flash speed.
If you do a N drop the torque convertor jumps to it's flash speed and then goes (assumeing you're at low rpm under the stall speed)
As long as you're doing either one of those, you're fine. The problem with neutral dropping is when you drop above the flash speed.
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