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New 2014.5 Camry owner here; love it, but trying to improve MPG

7K views 81 replies 16 participants last post by  jecht 
#1 ·
I am new to this forum (was on the Corolla boards), but have read quite a few posts here and love it!

I had a 2007 'Rolla with 315k (assumed, due to glitch at 299,999). But last week got a red 2014.5 SE. It's a great car. Used, 95k, 12.4k out the door, Barcelona Red SE with 17-inch wheels but the base I-4. I am glad I didn't get the V6, despite less power. I love the 2012-2014 body style and was lucky enough to get a rare 2014.5 (backup camera and other features, but with the older style).

Even with the unusually large (2.5-liter) base I-4, it's still powerful with 178 hp. It's rated 25/35.

My question--I can't get more than 28, even with new fluids/filters/etc. and tire pressure at recommended 35. Has anyone actually gotten 35 mpg on the highway with these? My guess is these will be as low as 23 in the winter and no more than 31 on the road, but what are everyone's experiences here?

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#2 ·
With my 2016 Toyota Camry 2.5 l4 cylinder SE... I can get 35 mpg+ on highway with no traffic on long drives. If I'm 75 to 85 mph then it's usually lowered towards 32-33 if all highway, minimal traffic. If I slow it down to 65-70 I can get 35+ MPG. Again with traffic it'll get down towards 32. A lot of non-highway it gets 25-30. During the day on a long drive I can get 35 mpg... Then coming back at night when it's cold it drops down to 32. My pressure with tires warm driving daytime gets up around 38-39 PSI. At night it gets closer to 35-36 PSI. I do adjust the front and rear tire pressure so that I get more even wear on the tires, to last longer. My rears actually end up needing slightly higher pressure than the fronts in order to wear more evenly, inside to outside of tire.

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#3 ·
Automatic or manual?

My cold garage tire PSI is usually 36-38psi.... I use no-season MPG improving tires. MPG tires = no speedracer traction

For MPG, use a full synthetic oil in the lowest grade recommended in the owners manual.
For MPG, use a full synthetic ATF. If not e-steering, use a full synthetic ATF/PSF.
For MPG, if manual transmission, use the thinnest synthetic MTF available that meets the spec.

Make sure alignment is perfect..... hint... I don't use manufacturer specs for alignment that caters to poor skilled drivers. Automakers tend to use too much toe in and negative camber.

If in a cold climate, use an oil pan and engine block heater. Set it on a timer about 30-60 minutes before your commute.

Do not use remote starters. Do not sit around idling.

If equipped, remove the carbon emissions filter in the air filter box lid.
Use a free flow air filter.... on some of my hypermilers, I'd holesaw a hole into the airbox and run an additional 2" intake hose feeding the airbox.

A few of my cars over the years responded to a ported cleaned up throttle body.

I also run a slightly larger spark plug gap. There were some upgraded fancy coils available years ago but don't seem to see much of them.

Run Quantum VVT solenoids.... supposedly move a little quicker than OE solenoids meaning better can phase response.

Lighten the car as much as possible. I don't carry any bodies in the trunk or a spare tire. Over the years, I've used carbonfiber hoods, lightweight batteries....

Do not install an accessories that use power, add weight, or increase drag.

Use lightweight rims..... OE rims tend to be strong and heavy and easy to manufacture. Go lightweight.

I've had several engines that I've removed the balance shafts.

And, if available, find some lightweight and/or underdriven pulleys for things like the crank, wp, alternator, psf pump....

Use top tier fuel or a quality bottle of FI cleaner regularly.

Do not under maintain the car which is the norm nowadays.

And the most important thing is to learn to drive. No one these days is looking far enough down the road and even attempts to anticipate the traffic patterns, traffic signals, road conditions.....

No tailgating, no jackrabbit starts, no speeding, no stupidity, no roadrage, no racing, and plenty of coasting

You do not need to be a hypermiler or dangerously slow driver to get good MPG. You just need a little common sense driving skills. Too many idiots out there are hood ornament drivers never looking past their hood ornament... gas/brake/gas/brake... a million times when I'm just coasting and watching them race to the next red light.
 
#23 ·
Automatic or manual?

My cold garage tire PSI is usually 36-38psi.... I use no-season MPG improving tires. MPG tires = no speedracer traction

For MPG, use a full synthetic oil in the lowest grade recommended in the owners manual.
For MPG, use a full synthetic ATF. If not e-steering, use a full synthetic ATF/PSF.
For MPG, if manual transmission, use the thinnest synthetic MTF available that meets the spec.

Make sure alignment is perfect..... hint... I don't use manufacturer specs for alignment that caters to poor skilled drivers. Automakers tend to use too much toe in and negative camber.

If in a cold climate, use an oil pan and engine block heater. Set it on a timer about 30-60 minutes before your commute.

Do not use remote starters. Do not sit around idling.

If equipped, remove the carbon emissions filter in the air filter box lid.
Use a free flow air filter.... on some of my hypermilers, I'd holesaw a hole into the airbox and run an additional 2" intake hose feeding the airbox.

A few of my cars over the years responded to a ported cleaned up throttle body.

I also run a slightly larger spark plug gap. There were some upgraded fancy coils available years ago but don't seem to see much of them.

Run Quantum VVT solenoids.... supposedly move a little quicker than OE solenoids meaning better can phase response.

Lighten the car as much as possible. I don't carry any bodies in the trunk or a spare tire. Over the years, I've used carbonfiber hoods, lightweight batteries....

Do not install an accessories that use power, add weight, or increase drag.

Use lightweight rims..... OE rims tend to be strong and heavy and easy to manufacture. Go lightweight.

I've had several engines that I've removed the balance shafts.

And, if available, find some lightweight and/or underdriven pulleys for things like the crank, wp, alternator, psf pump....

Use top tier fuel or a quality bottle of FI cleaner regularly.

Do not under maintain the car which is the norm nowadays.

And the most important thing is to learn to drive. No one these days is looking far enough down the road and even attempts to anticipate the traffic patterns, traffic signals, road conditions.....

No tailgating, no jackrabbit starts, no speeding, no stupidity, no roadrage, no racing, and plenty of coasting

You do not need to be a hypermiler or dangerously slow driver to get good MPG. You just need a little common sense driving skills. Too many idiots out there are hood ornament drivers never looking past their hood ornament... gas/brake/gas/brake... a million times when I'm just coasting and watching them race to the next red light.
What allignment spec do you use?
 
#4 ·
Thank you all! I am somewhat of a hypermiler but not hard core. I agree that people nowadays "knife and fork it" (as I like to say) when it comes to driving--no finesse. Stabs at throttle and brake and no flow.
I coast to lights and try to drive smoothly. I have a 4-cylinder with automatic. I'll have to see if I can port my throttle body.

Tires 35 psi all around. No remote starters thankfully.

Is it smarter to ditch the 17'' sport wheels/tires for smaller ones? Would the gas savings be seen quick enough? I'd be spending $$ for new tires and wheels vs. keeping my current ones.

Also, the steering makes a weird sound when I turn it, but I'm hoping it's just because it's the electrical steering (which I'm not used to). Mechanic said no issues with the car!
 
#7 ·
The mpg readout (gauge and digital) says 28.2 digitally. I do fill up method (tank/miles) and get 28.

When do spark plugs and TB need to be changed? Car has 95400 or so. It drives smooth but am worried I am leaving mileage on the table. Mechanic said no issues and he is honest with me.
 
#8 ·
I'm like nj77. If I watch my speed, I can easily get above 35 mpg. Of course in southcentral PA, the rolling hills kill gas mileage as well. Also driving from west to east, I get better gas mileage (wind).

Last week, I drove to work and got 37 mpg (west to east); drive home I was about 32 mpg (east to west).
 
#10 ·
To me at least, if you really want to see that 35 mpg you got to drive on the hwy for a rather long time. Just start really calculating and noting your MPG after every fuel up. If maintenance is done and your foot is not made of lead, then you can see an increase.

If my foot was not made of lead and I keep below 80 mph and the road is not full of idiots, I can achieve 30 mpg. However, I am in the city and a majority of my drives are 15 - 30 minutes to wherever (including on the hwy) I don't make that hwy mpg of my own vehicle often but I don't make the city mpg as often either. I only do my overall MPG, I am not gonna do the math and split the differences between city and hwy.

Don't worry about it. It's not like you are making 8mpg.

310313

 
#12 ·
I just get my overall FULL to FILLUP mpg. My car doesn't come with a MPG reading and the only app I have used was Torque Pro and my Average MPG just kept rising and rising and rising. Otherwise yes, the ECU will learn your driving style a bit. For me, if I look at my fuel garage and TRIP B and see that I have more than 200 miles before halfway on the fuel gauge, I am doing good. If I have less than that halfway, I am not doing good. Only time I see it at over 200 miles is on long trips. Just remember, the digital readout is more of an estimation than it is an exaction.
 
#15 ·
Something like that. The new battery helped solve some of that but what really "fixed" it is that the battery was unhooked for a few minutes letting the ECU reset and when the new one was installed the ECU had to relearn your driving habits.

Something I like to do preferably (but not always) every time I disconnect my battery:
  • Buy MAF cleaner & throttle cleaner
  • Key OFF
  • Remove MAF
  • Spray MAF cleaner into MAF
  • Have someone assist you or place an heavy object on the accelerator pedal
  • This will actuate the throttle open to allow you to clean it
  • Clean/brush throttle with throttle cleaner
  • Reinstall everything
  • Unhook battery for more than 90 seconds
  • Start car (it won't start)
  • Start car again
 
#17 ·
At 100k miles, may I suggest you do a few things as others have mentioned.

Clean the MAF sensor.
Clean the throttle body.
Replace the air filter as needed.
Replace plugs with good plugs.
Remove and clean the EGR or replace.

Check to see that EGR flow from the exhaust to the intake is clear of carbon.

Have your catastrophic converter checkEd by a muff shop.

Injectors, have them flow tested/cleaned or replaced.

Clean or replace the crankcase ventilation valve.

I can promise you, if the engine internals are fine ( No loss of compression- leaky valve seals )
Your Camry will run tip top if you can do these things.

And yes, wheel alignment is very important. A bad alignment will cause drag which equals poor fuel economy.

Our Camry’s are very good cars and low maintenance but as all things mechanical, they do require upkeep.
 
#18 ·
Shorter trips will give you lower MPG.
MPG drops as you increase speed above 60mph.
Set the cruise control and try to maintain a nice steady speed, as much as traffic will allow.
As others have said....if conditions permit you to set your cruise control and keep your feet off the accelerator and brake pedals, you will get decent fuel economy out of your vehicle.
Spark plugs are rated for up to 120K miles. I would use ONLY the original specified spark plug, don't try to get fancy there.
Throttle body cleaning can help......some gunk builds up under the throttle plate over time.
PCV valve is supposed to last a very long time vs older cars. PCV valve is now located in the engine block (not the valve cover)......it is on the rear of the engine, under the intake manifold.....so getting to it is not easy. The thought process for locating it there is that it will be warmer, develop less deposits.....and it is close to the throttle body, so the vapors will be warmer......resulting in less deposits in the intake.
At 65-70mph on reasonably level highway.....Indiana and Ohio turnpikes......I can get just under 40mpg with my 2016 4cyl. I even do very well on the Illinois TriState Tollway if I go through when it is not "rush hours".
To and from work I get around 30mpg or slightly less, but I'm only running for 15 to 20 minutes on the freeway most of the way.
I use the OEM air filter, stock intake.....I have not made any modifications there.

I have the stock 17 inch alloy wheels.
For winter, I have a 16 inch snow tire "package" with steel wheels......and get the same MPG with them.
The overall diameter of the 17 and 16 inch wheels (with tires listed for my car) gives me pretty much the same overall diameter, so no speedo adjust stuff needed.
I use "regular" unleaded fuel......I try to get "top tier" when I can and I often run Redline Complete Fuel System Cleaner in the fuel tank. There are other good brands of fuel system cleaners out there.
 
#19 ·
I'm getting the feeling that the OP simply never reset the mpg mode, so that all of the previous owner's mpg data average was showing the past 45k miles of recorded mpg.
As such, driving even 100 miles would have almost no effect on the average mpg display (even if the driver were hypermiling).

Disconnecting the battery of course re-set the mpg readout.

To the OP, you have to push and hold the mode plunger to reset any individual data reading (such as mpg, trip miles, etc.).
 
#24 ·
I use my own spec's. Sorry, its a liability issue but any suspension/steering guy would understand the limitations of OE alignment spec's. If they don't, you're at the wrong shop. I'd say you can keep it on the edge of spec with what I mentioned before by running it with the least camber/toe as possible. This way, you're in spec and I have no liability. I just went a littler further away from spec than any fly-by-night tire alignment guy would consider.
 
#25 ·
I may have missed it but what tires are on the car? My '15 still had the factory Michelin XMX4's on it when I bought it. Mine's an XSE with the 225/45 18's. No problem getting 35+ mpg on the freeway with them. I replaced them with Bridgestone RE980AS's and mileage went in the trash. Those tire just didn't roll no matter what I tried. I was running them at 44 to 45 psi cold to get into 32 to 34 MPG being ultra careful. Yea, the Eco light would be on but those tires wouldn't coast for squat. Only tires I've ever had that would decelerate on a few fairly steep down hill grades on my daily commute. I replaced those a few months ago with Goodyear Assurance Maxlife's and running them at the Toyota spec 33 PSI cold gets me 37 to 38 MPG without being crazy careful and I got 39.9 on two separate tanks of gas by working at it some. The rolling resistance of the tires can play a huge part in MPG.
 
#26 · (Edited)
Getting within 1mpg with the 2 methods is pretty close.....enough to call the digital readout as being accurate enough. There is a certain error in the filling the fuel tank method also, due to pump shutoff from one fillup to another.

As for tires, you can get really good "low rolling resistance" tires that are really good without getting the "ultra high mileage" tires that don't last as long. /for example, Michelin has "green X" designation for their low rolling resistance tires. The OEM Michelins for my year can be gotten in "Green X" designation (note that all sizes may not have the "green X"). Michelin does have a ultra high MPG tire for my car, but the tread life rating is not very high. Even the Michelin X-ice 3 winter tire had a "green X" designation. So all else being equal, it is good to look for mpg rated tires. Again, the ultra low rolling resistance ones may not meet the other criteria you are looking for, like wet road traction, etc.
 
#27 ·
Getting within 1mpg with the 2 methods is pretty close.....enough to call the digital readout as being accurate enough. There is a certain error in the filling the fuel tank method also, due to pump shutoff from one fillup to another.
Unless someone is topping off and damaging those fuel components on their vehicle, most if not all of the gas stations I have been to the pump has shutoff properly without spillage or underfilled.
 
#29 ·
Situational awareness means looking forward much further than most drivers. Acceleration should be at 80% of max engine load, that is fairly brisk, about what normal traffic does. THE SECRET is how you slow down and how often you stop, touching the brakes is poison, drive like they are not working at all. Your objective is to reach every traffic light when it has turned green and you don't even have to slow down for the traffic moving away from the light. I once drove through 62 traffic lights and never had to stop for one, over a distance of 35 miles. My Echo will do over 100MPG on a deserted road with dedicated hypermiling, 20 years old with 174k miles. It did drop off significantly when I changed the Bridgestone tires to more performance oriented tires, on 12 pound 5.5X15 inch rims.

I generally average close to 25% over highway ratings in day to day driving, but I have studied inertia conservation for decades and have been driving for 54 years.

If you are on the highway with tires at 40 PSI ( I run higher) then follow the flow of traffic, preferably following a large truck with 3 stripes separation (about 130 Feet). Under those circumstances at speeds below 70 MPH average you should get close to 40 MPG.
 
#30 ·
I drove smooth the last 2 tanks and got 31 in mixed driving. Tried to do Eco mode as much as possible.

I would love to get 35.

Ran fuel injector cleaner in the tank.

Tires at 37 psi.

Still have to see about spark plugs and throttle body cleaning.
 
#31 ·
31 in mixed driving is excellent! That easily translates to 35+ in highway driving. I wouldn't worry about the spark plugs until 120k miles if you're getting mileage like that. My 2006 Camry I changed right at 120k. Could have have waited until 150k. Keep up the maintenance and address any issues ASAP; you'll easily reach 200k. Don't create issues that aren't there. Enjoy and worry about other things.
 
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#32 ·
That is fair.
I will wait on spark plugs.
The TB--should I wait as well? Trying to get it as optimized as much as possible. Got the car a month ago--you don't know how prior owners took care of it. 95k on these at purchase is like getting a domestic with 45k!
 
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