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I'm helping my kid buy a new corolla. She lives in NH. Before I put out my OTD offers to a few dealers, can someone tell me what the average "dealer" fee we can expect. Also, no tax in NH, but what other fees are we looking at... Title and registration.. Any others and about how much?

I was going to try $500 under invoice before fees and before cash incentive and recent college grad money.
Here in NY, it's easier since dealer fee is capped at either 75 or 100 and I have good idea on NY dmv fees.

But I won't be with her to buy it, so I want to make sure I have solid numbers for her.

Thanks in advance.
 

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I don't know the answer to the dealer fees question, but True Car is one of the best tools currently to find out what the bast deals being had are. Use the website then start $500 or $1,000 below that number. Having been in and around the industry for 30+ years I can tell you there has been such a shift in back side money to the dealers that invoice simply doesn't mean anything anymore. Websites that claim to be able to tell you all of the buyer and dealer incentives that exist on a car simply cannot accurately tell you that because much of that money is tied to volume across all models rather than a single model, so the dealer may be getting $1,000 a car back from Toyota because of a volume tier they hit or one they are sure they will hit if they make their next few deals. It's one reason that the last few days of the month continue to be the best time to buy. The dealer is either still trying to make a particular tier and needs 1,2,3 sales or has already made it and has the money secured, but additional cars are worth that extra money.

As for getting dialed in on the fees just gets quotes from 3 or more dealers in writing and you'll see if they are all the same or if one or more is playing games. Put your quote requests in via internet rather than walking in once you know for sure the model and trim you are settled on. If she went to her closest/most convenient dealer for a test drive first to confirm what she really wanted then give that dealer "last look" with the opportunity to match the best deal and remember that the selling dealer will typically be your strongest ally in the rare case you get a problem car. That's why I always give my most convenient dealer the opportunity to get my business if at all possible.
 

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Title, plates, inspection, and registration are the only legitimate costs to put a car on the road in NH.

Inspection generally runs around $45

Cost for title is $25.

Plates are $8.00.

There is a town and state fee for registration, see RSA 261:141 for state and RSA 261:153 for town.

State is based on weight and will probably be $43.20.

Easiest way for the town part is to call the town hall where she lives and ask for an estimate. Typical on a new "non exotic" vehicle is a few hundred dollars (it is based on age and list price)

The prices will be prorated based on the number of months she is registering for, which is based on her birthday.

Not sure how much they will mark this stuff up but let us know, I'm curious...
 

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Please define what you mean by "dealer fee". Your reference to the NY cap is correct, but that applies to the dealer charge for the convenience of handling the registration/plates for you, saving you the trip to a DMV office. You can save the charge by DIY... if the office has reopened. Everything else is just passed along to NY government agencies. Sales taxes, new tire fees, state registration fees, county registration fees, new plate fees. While not merely passed along, even the inspection sticker on the windshield costs them about half of what they can charge. Gotta' pay my pension somehow, LOL.
 

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I don't know the answer to the dealer fees question, but True Car is one of the best tools currently to find out what the bast deals being had are. Use the website then start $500 or $1,000 below that number.
He aint wrong. TrueCar had a deal through my work on the 2019 SE when it first came out and i basically stole the thing before taxes compared to what their asking price was. as a bonus i got a $1000 rebate after from the dealer that I didn't even know they had as part of the deal.
 

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Suggestion: When using True Car or other such services, use different zip codes reflecting how far you are willing to travel to save. By moving my indicted zip 75 miles west, I found a small town Toyota dealer willing to go $1000 lower. They ordered exactly what I wanted, I spent a few hours driving there and back, I never set foot in the place until pickup. And they took my personal check. I liked their attitude and treatment of me as a customer I'd buy from them again for an price equal to the three local dealers.
 

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Suggestion: When using True Car or other such services, use different zip codes reflecting how far you are willing to travel to save. By moving my indicted zip 75 miles west, I found a small town Toyota dealer willing to go $1000 lower. They ordered exactly what I wanted, I spent a few hours driving there and back, I never set foot in the place until pickup. And they took my personal check. I liked their attitude and treatment of me as a customer I'd buy from them again for an price equal to the three local dealers.
That works as long as you don't leave your "region", not that it will always matter. When you contact the dealer make sure you give them your real zip code in case incentives are different than where the dealer is located. In most cases if you aren't crossing state lines it's not likely you are crossing region lines. A dealer can sell across region lines no problem, but when they enter the deal with your real zip it will correct the incentives if there is a difference.
 

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I've always thought the manufacturer offers were based on dealer location, not my home address. And this language, from a current offer, seems to support that:
Cash from Toyota Motor Sales U.S.A., Inc. on select models of the new 2020 Camry from participating dealer’s stock and subject to vehicle availability. Cannot be combined with TFS APR Cash, TFS Lease Cash, APR, Lease, APR Subvention Cash, Lease Subvention Cash. Offer available in CT, NJ, NY; void where prohibited. Expires 09-30-2020. See your participating Toyota dealer for details.

What am I missing?
 

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I've always thought the manufacturer offers were based on dealer location, not my home address. And this language, from a current offer, seems to support that:
Cash from Toyota Motor Sales U.S.A., Inc. on select models of the new 2020 Camry from participating dealer’s stock and subject to vehicle availability. Cannot be combined with TFS APR Cash, TFS Lease Cash, APR, Lease, APR Subvention Cash, Lease Subvention Cash. Offer available in CT, NJ, NY; void where prohibited. Expires 09-30-2020. See your participating Toyota dealer for details.

What am I missing?
Everything is clearly laid out other than it's not clear the way that it is worded whether the dealer or the buyer has to be in CT, NJ, & NY, but trust me, it's where the buyer resides.

Notice all the incompatibilities listed of incentives that don't work together? Probably 15-20 years ago dealerships were having trouble with their managers keeping everything straight as to what programs could be combined and which ones couldn't. Every deal gets reviewed by the manufacturer and if the dealer incorrectly combined 2 or more programs then the manufacturer would "charge back" the dealer. Let's say you're selling 100 cars a month and you muck up 10 of those deals and claim incentives incorrectly at an average of $1,000 a car. Poof...$10K gone. Some enterprising individuals recognized this and created software that would guarantee all appropriate incentives would be applied with no mistakes and the dealers subscribe the same way you might subscribe to Office 365. Each and every deal gets loaded in including the buyer's info and the dealer immediately knows exactly what his cost is and that all applicable incentives are applied according to the buyer's address.
 

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Everything is clearly laid out other than it's not clear the way that it is worded whether the dealer or the buyer has to be in CT, NJ, & NY, but trust me, it's where the buyer resides.
So, are you saying that if I go buy from a dealer in California, this rebate applies, regardless of whether such an offer is currently being made in Cali?
 

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So, are you saying that if I go buy from a dealer in California, this rebate applies, regardless of whether such an offer is currently being made in Cali?
If you use an address in CT, NY, or NJ yes. Manufacturers decide what incentives to use in each market because each market is different. In some markets Toyota may be getting enough pressure from Hyundai or Kia that they have to be more aggressive, but in another market they don't have to so they won't.
 

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I guess I didn't mention I live in NY.

It seems odd as a practical matter that Toyota would develop an incentive to sell cars in, say, NY (presumably to move NY inventory) and pay it to me even if I buy and reduce inventory in California, where inventory might actually be lower than desired.

Toyota does have that unusual pair of relationships with Southeast and Gulf States, which can lead to some of the disclaimers.
 

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I guess I didn't mention I live in NY.

It seems odd as a practical matter that Toyota would develop an incentive to sell cars in, say, NY (presumably to move NY inventory) and pay it to me even if I buy and reduce inventory in California, where inventory might actually be lower than desired.

Toyota does have that unusual pair of relationships with Southeast and Gulf States, which can lead to some of the disclaimers.
Think of it from a marketing perspective. The frequency of NY residents choosing to buy in CA would be extremely low, but if you do there is no price advantage to motivate you to do so, and because the North East market has it's own competitive characteristics the incentives are tailored to it. If it were based on the dealer location people would frequently travel just to buy at a better price, especially those who lived close to another market. Look at gasoline or alcohol. Happens all the time when people live near a state with significantly lower taxes on those items.
 

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Does NH have a vehicle excise tax or any other yearly registration taxes? Here in Texas we have to pay a yearly inspection and registration fee.
 
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