I have recently bought a 89 Supra MK III with 100.000 km. It is runing very good and I am pleased.
But I whant to start modifying. In Romania are a few Supra end there is not much knowlege about this car. Can you help me whith some tips on Rims (I am intrested in 17' wheels), how to upgrade the turbo etc.
Also, I whant to specify that I have Eibach Springs and Koni shock absorbers with electri control.
Excuse my english. It is not very good. :respect:
First I whant to upgrade the turbo and a flash-tuning. I understand that the original turbo can suport up to 400 hp. I whant to know what I am suposed to do for this upgrade: to change the turbo or to modify the existing one.
Also I think I need whide wheels on the back to keep up with the power.
You cannot flash tune the ECU of a Mk3 Supra. They are not flashable. You have to use a standalone or start using piggy back devices (S-AFC, eManage, etc.).
If properly tuned, I've seen people push the stock turbo to 400hp, but it's not worth doing it.
To get to 400hp, you need:
- Fuel Tuning
- Boost Control
- Wideband O2 (suggested)
- Upgraded Fuel Pump
- Bigger Fuel Injectors (you push the limits of the stock fuel system getting to 400)
- Wider Tires
from what i've noticed, 7m's get a little sensitive around the 400mark. i would suggest running a fairly high octane fuel, or have some sort of meth/water injection system to lower those combustion chamber temps. here its either 91 octane which is good for about 1bar of boost, or 100 octane. its twice as much for 100 but i dont have forged internals, so, i dont like to gamble. if you can keep the pistons from cracking, you can get a lot of hp out of the 7m 500hp+ that one guy on supraforums got 650 i think on a stock motor.
It could be the centre bearing. When they wear, the driveshaft can move around causing vibration and noise. Often the first sign is a clunking sound when you first let out the clutch from a stop.
The 7M is well proven to around the 500hp mark on stock components (except of course the turbo). People having problems at 400 either don't know what they are doing, are paying someone who doesn't know what they are doing, or are modifying worn out engines, and that really relates back to not knowing what they're doing. Properly done, there should be no issues.
The bearing is one piece, and the driveshaft is mounted in it before it is put in the car. You might take the opportunity to make sure the shafts are balanced while you have it apart, just to make sure that is the problem/that is the only problem.
There are steering stops on the hub that may need adjustment depending on rim fitment, but generally you don't even need to worry about them. Most people don't have them attached anymore as they were nylon caps on the end of bolts.
Yes, The rims Were balanced but now I see that the stearing fluid is coming from the top of the reservoir, from uder the cap. I also see that when the engine is runing, if I rev it a little, the power stearing is working perfectly. If I don't rev it, it is not working.
You have a clogged reservoir screen. You can remove the reservoir and clean it out, and while you are doing it you might as well change bleed the fluid from the rest of the system. I find brake cleaner and a smaller round paint brush (1cm, 1/2 inch) will get in there to dig into the debris caught by the screen.
To change the fluid, put the reservoir back on and don't attach the return line. Fill the reservoir with clean fluid and have a friend turn the steering wheel. This forces the fluid out, and you can continue to fill up the reservoir until you see new fluid coming out the open return. It's messy, but works.