Some cheapo aftermarket converters are junk. Most are a fraction of the size of the original converter and therefore cant clean up the exhaust enough to keep the check engine light off. If the code is still for converter efficiency then that aftermarket cat is more than likely the problem. This is becoming more of a problem on newer cars due to the software in the computer having stricter tollerences for whats acceptable. If you want no more problems go with the dealer part. If you dont want to spend that much then shop around for a brand name direct fit part from a well known manufacturer that will offer you a warranty on it.
I had the codes checked. It basically said my catalytic converter is not working properly.
I looked under the truck. It's obvious that a muffler shop cut the stock CAT out with a torch and welded in a generic one-size-fits-all CAT. Obviously, the ECU doesn't like it.
The Toyota CAT is $800 or so. Have any of you had any luck with any certain brand of aftermarket CAT? I am going to get a bolt in replacement. Not one that is just welded in and isn't for any particular make or model.
Either way when it comes to converters your rolling the dice with any after market ones. We generally just recomend the OEM ones these days to avoid any issues and agravation for us and the customer. Dont know if it will make you feel any better but some of these OEM converters are thousands of dollars. Some aftermarket suppliers are Bosal, Walker. If you go aftermarket definatly go for the direct fit/bolt in type.
I cut the cats outta my 03 2.7 and they are in good shape just no pipes on them at all just the catz. I will let you have em for $110 shipped. US shipping only . I got a simulator from www.empirepao.com. In Oklahoma we dropped the inspection so I dropped the catz and installed a high flow. yes you will have to have the cats welded in.