[EH96T100]

New to the forum. Must say the registration for this forum was
Somewhat of a hassle.
I recently purchased a 1996 T100 4WD with a 3.4Liter engine.

Truck runs Great and I love it. Shortly after I bought it the check engine light came on and I ran a diagnostic on it. I got the 02 sensor error/running lean and cylinder 2 misfiring. Sometimes it idles rough and other times it's fine. However after this came on my acceleration dropped. I am also noticing rust issues in the frame as it came from New York where they salt roads. I can deal with the rust as I have done body work a lot in the past. I ordered a cold air intake and new spark plugs and wires. Any input?

 

[punk_and_goth]

When you do the plugs and wires if it still misfires try swapping the coil packs if the code changes then you will see if you have a bad coil

 

[EH96T100]

Popped the hood again and checked everything out. A couple of the spark plugs wires were crossed and it caused some arching?. I just got my new
Plugs and wires in the mail and will change them tonight. Hope that fixes it

 

[EH96T100]

My truck. On the back window is some ak47 stickers, grateful dead and peace love and harmony stickers along with some Garcia stickers. Ironic? I know. Came with the truck

 

[EH96T100]

Think I will wait a few days til I get the cold air intake to replace it all at once. Seems pointless to me to remove the stock oem air filtration system to put new plugs and wires in. Just to remove them
Again for the cold air intake. What is odd
To me though is that aside from the lack of acceleration from about 35-50mph and the slight cab vibration. I can't notice a misfire. And my throttle response from 60mph on up is awesome. Which is much different from other people's posts. Also when I first fire the truck up it runs smooth and as soon as the fast idle turns off... It vibrates... Should I turn up the idle? Bam I heard you are a pro in this department. Waiting for your response.

Keep in mind it's an automatic and spins the tires off the line with ease.

 

[noahrexion]

You'll have to fill us in with more details such as:

- Mileage
- maintenance history on truck that you know about
- what happens after your plugs/wire install
- whether or not you notice any of the COP (coil on plug) boots worn torn...etc when you're changing plugs
- do you have a scanner and/or scangauge
- Did you clear the CEL and did it come back on?
- circumstances around which you notice the code? after rain (I'm in Oregon too and we've obviously had some cool wet weather recently), after it heats up...etc
- does the cab ONLY vibrate from 35-50 when accelerating?

Many times a misfire will trip your P0420 code inefficiency code - though not a lean condition if you're actually misfiring. You can certainly prematurely wear your cat if left untouched. Swapping coil packs is a good start as suggested. Not installing a cold air intake is another good idea - perhaps your wheel spin is sufficient and the money you can save on returning your pipe and filter that won't give you any gains can be better spent on maintenance and rust repair. Have a look on here, custom tacos, toyota forums...etc for proof that intakes and the 5VZFE do not do anything but make noise and not filter as well - and quite possibly prematurely destroy MAF sensors (oil and debris).

Along the topic of rust you should really inspect the vehicle very well before investing too much. Frame, inner fender, gas tank/straps/fuel lines, exhaust/manifold, all load bearing mount points for axles/suspension...etc Not to mention paint/body if thats important to you. If you do intend to keep it and fix rust issues than kudos to you.

 

[EH96T100]

The boots aren't worn. I did notice a slight difference after I uncrossed the wires. Maintenance has been maintained regularly on the truck. Has full history and receipts all the way back to 96 in the glove box. Including the original owners manual and original dealership price tag. Which is 26,899$. I did clear the CEL. The first time it came back on after 200 miles and it was the P01071 code. The 2nd time it came back on it had that code plus P0302. After clearing these codes they both came back on after just a couple miles. The cab vibration happens at idle. Between 35-50mph. And now randomly at other speeds. Happens less now that none of the wires are crossed. Haven't got to changing the plugs and wires yet. At the beach with the family.

Most of the wires had been replaced already that were rusted out. Body as far as rust goes is already almost taken care of. Tackling the frame soon. Gas tank was replaced and has a plastic cover.

My mileage is lower than rated at about 13-15mpg

Most of the lines have been replaced also. I will have to replace the rear brake lines probably. The rest have been done. I have had the truck inspected by several mechanics. And metal is free for me. I have connections. May also put in another cross member. Just for the extra support. Not that I think I will need it.

I really need to replace the front passenger side brake rotor. It's all fuct up.

 

[noahrexion]

You might also consider checking fuel pressure (can rent gauge) if you don't have one - this could easily be a vacuum leak and/or fuel injector as well.

Your codes may be unrelated as well if your plug wires are connected to the proper coils. The 171 is for lean condition on bank 1 which is your passenger side (same bank as cylinder #1) and your 302 code is obviously a cylinder #2 misfire. If you're still getting both of those codes and you're hooked up correctly - which is 1-4, 2-5 and 3-6 then I'm guessing you may have two separate issues.

I'd certainly start with plugs/wires (when were they last done), fuel filter and maybe a MAF cleaning considering your codes. Check for vacuum leaks, fuel pressure issues and then suspect fuel injectors (which are common enough to go sour on higher mileage toyota's).

 

[EH96T100]

Hmm interesting. Didn't think to check the fuel pressure. I do have an odd thing going on where when it sits for a day and I turn the truck on. It takes up to 5 minutes of run time before the fuel gauge reads
Correctly.

Do you guys recommend getting the injectors cleaned? Or just replacing them completely. Seems to be about the same price.

 

[SC T100]

Welcome! Nice to see another black 4x4 extra cab!

 

[EH96T100]

I absolutely love the truck. Has already helped me tremendously. Just out-towed my friend in his 2016 Nissan Frontier going uphill towing identical boats

 

[dnshady]

Hmm interesting. Didn't think to check the fuel pressure. I do have an odd thing going on where when it sits for a day and I turn the truck on. It takes up to 5 minutes of run time before the fuel gauge reads
Correctly.

Do you guys recommend getting the injectors cleaned? Or just replacing them completely. Seems to be about the same price.

Cold air intakes do zero for our trucks, and also there is no way of adjusting the ECU to compensate for the cold air intake as have been proven that in order to see any difference one would have to properly tune and dyno a cold air intake, btw, the way our air box is set up, we pull colder air through a vehicle, than you would with a Cold air intake (which is pulling air from both outside and from the engine bay) and unless you are constantly above 3600-4800 rpms you wont see a difference in power because, that is when the engine is taking in most of its air because that is its peak power curve, if you plan i dragging this truck on a track do it but realize you will have to modify your air/fuel mixture to see any difference, our air intake is pulling directly from the fender where no engine heat is affecting it, just trying to save you money in the long run, other than that advice i love. The look of your truck, body is super clean!
New set of nice alloys on it would be sick

 

[EH96T100]

I absolutely love the truck. Does everything I need it to and more. Will keep you guys updated with the rust before and after pics


I also realized this after I purchased the cold air intake shady. But oh well. I'll keep it laying around and use it some day for something. Yes the body is really nice and the inside. Just got both of the differentials inspected and someone took really good care of that at least. I'm still floored at how much power the damn thing has. My parents have an f150 with a towing cam and a fresh rebuild and my truck seems to have just as much if not more power and they got the 5.0

 

[EH96T100]

Okay I need some help on this. I have read in other forums that it is not all that uncommon to have cab shakes on most
Toyota trucks. I have mine still happening just not as bad as it was. Seems to only happen between 40-55ish mph. Also only happens when I have my foot on the gas and sometimes it doesn't happen at all. I had a mechanic friend ride in it with me today to see what he thinks and he thought maybe a u-joint. Input ?

 

[fourwd1]

There a lot of things that can cause vibrations at a specific speed and a bad u-joint is one. Also an out of balance tire, bad drive line angle from a suspension lift, worn suspension or steering joints and bushings, etc.

 

[punk_and_goth]

Now keep in mind that the 3.4's use dual electrode plugs

Failure to use the correct plugs makes them do very very odd things

 

[EH96T100]

That's the first thing I changed. It had singles and I used doubles and it made a night and day difference

 

[BamZipPow]

Welcome to the forums!

Shoot some video and post it. Make sure all yer noise makers are off so we can hear any issues.

The cab should NOT shake significantly.

When the fuel tank was replaced, was there any fuel related issues at the time? Why was the fuel tank replaced? Was the fuel pump and pump sock filter replaced at the same time? Was the fuel filter replaced? Were any of the fuel lines damaged and "fixed" instead of replacement?

Any vacuum leaks? Lean condition codes can be caused by vacuum leaks. Have you tested fer any vacuum leaks using an unlit propane torch and the engine running to see if the engine revs up which is an indication of the propane gas being sucked up by a vacuum leak? A careful inspection of all yer vacuum hoses would be a good start. Replace any that have cracks or isn't pliable.

 

[EH96T100]

Did all that and the fuel pump, sock filter and tank was replaced because of rust and I'm not sure I can get a good video of it because you feel it in the seat and the floors and only sometimes. Not idle but I will give it a shot.

I'm excited though because I just found my exact truck at a wrecking yard. Frame and engineering components are almost prestine. From appearance that is. Keep in mind this truck was owned and driven for 180k miles in a place where they salt the roads every few weeks. So odd thing and question. This cold air intake was made by Toyota and has all the fitting to match the old air box set up. Still think I shouldn't install it?

Also to add. It's weird but the inside part of the frame is still solid as a rock and I towed a 78 nova today over rough roads for almost 100miles. It did great. Other than the cab shake that is annoying the crap out of me. If it helps the cab shake doesn't happen much when floored going up a hill. I do think these trucks should have been geared lower though.

 

[BamZipPow]

The cold air intake probably wasn't made by Toyota but for them. You've already bought it so you might as well see what it can or can't do by installing it. If you have an OBDII scanner, I'd be curious on yer intake air temp with and without the CAI.

Since yer T-100 has been in a rust belt environment and you've replaced a significant amount of rusted components, I'm wondering if yer body rubber mounts might be hosed. Post some piccies of the underside, if you don't mind...