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new whiteline swaybar install questions

2648 Views 22 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  kenratboy
okay picked up the sway bar at the post office couple days ago

now i noticed the yellow bushings that came with the sway bar dont have the metal brackets on/with them...
example: Click Here to see sway bar install thread.. about 12 posts down you'll see the picture between the gen4/solara and the gen3 bushing/brackets

is this because its my responsibility to get the brackets or can i reuse the stock ones for the stock sway bar(does my car even have a stock sway bar to begin with)?

sorry for reposting this from the group buy thread, but im having a friend help me install this tomorrow and kinda need an answer asap.. thanks guys
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You can use the stock ones.
awesome, if everything goes well, i should have it installed by tomorrow afternoon.. ill post results
looking forward to seeing ur pics, and also be sure to note how much better the handling went as well... :D
holy shit what a catastrophe!

a 45 minute job to change the rear sway bar turned into a whole day job.. everything that could of went wrong, went wrong
considering my car is 14 years old and everything underneath is rusted.. needless to say, one of the bolts to the bracket that goes around the sway bar bushings broke off inside the bracket bolted into the frame

went to strauss and bought a broken bolt removal kit, which are actually drill bits but the threads are reversed

anyways, i used a drill bit to drill into the broken bolt to start a small hole for the bolt removal bits.. then guess what, the drill bit broke inside the bolt... back to square 1 again.. so then we(friend helped out) used a bigger bit and started to drill into the bolt to help smooth out the top so we can start over

after we grinded down the top part of the broken bolt, we then used another drill bit to start a small hole into the broken bit & broken bolt... bingo got a hole! soo now we popped in the bolt removal bit and started drilling... guess what THE BOLT REMOVAL BIT BROKE IN [email protected]#$

anyways, to make a long story short.. we broke the small drill bit and 2 of the bolt removal bits.. so then i went to kmart and purchased Titanium coated drill bits and started drilling away.. needless to say, we had 3 broken drill bits drilled into each other inside the broken bolt... which made it very difficult to drill into even though we got stronger bits this time

anyways, we gave up after 6 or so hours of this never ending battle, left the broken bolt inside.. bolted the bracket back to the frame.. eased the new sway bar in there, put the polyurthane bushings on with lots of grease, bolted the one side of the bracket of the passenger side(the side where one of the bolts broke off) and used twistie ties to help secure the otherside plus the 3rd bolt to the vertical control arm.. bolted the 3 on the driver side.... and then took it for a test drive to see how it holds up with only 2 bolts on passenger side(i was going to temporarily keep it this way til i get it to a shop where they can drill it out for me or see if the dealer has a replacement bracket that holds the bushing up on tuesday because i dont know if there open tomorrow which is memorial day)

anyways, after driving around, it was fine for 5 minutes until it started clunking
surprisingly the twistie ties held up but not the one side of the bushing bracket, it bend the whole thing and almost straightened it out

so what we then did was cut all the twistie ties off, wrapped a towel around the sway bar on the passenger side where its clunking against the fuel tank and used twistie ties to keep the towel from moving
then used a loose twistie tie to the control arm so it doesnt move around much

its fine if i drive around carefully and take turns slowly.. but on tuesday(or monday if anyone is open which i doubt) im gonna take it to a local shop or the dealer(if they have the part in stock) and either replace the bracket or get someone to drill it out for me i had enough of this shit already

this project would have been great if that god damn bolt didnt break..
Lession to all of you with older cars and rusted bolts.. be very VERY careful not to break them off! what a pain in the ass

okay now let the laughing begin cuz i know some of you are probably laughing your asses off at me :(
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HAHAHHAHAHAHA. You should of waited for me to come online because thats the exact same thing that happened to me, and I still got the bolt out but it still makes the clunking noise. Actually i havent noticed it lately, but my car is really low. You cant mess with those bolts, thats y im never buying a whiteline sway bar.
Aww that sucks dude. :(

I hope the shop has better luck than you did with the bolt...
yea ive pretty much fucked that bolt to hell and back
i drilled through 3 bits in the center of that bolt, all of which broke off inside of each other after drilling through

but i still did not make a hole all the way through

so i can either buy a new bracket in which the bushing bracket bolts into or find someone that can fix this one for me
i just know that driving around with the passenger side of the sway bar with only the end link bolted with twistie ties on the top of it is NOT good
i pretty much have to drive like a granny, take turns at 5~10mph taking it easy so the sway bar doesnt clunk or twist.. oh and forget about bumps in the road :(

i gotta get this fixed asap, hopefully i can find someone open tomorrow, a dealership, local shop, junk yard, whatever, but something tells me my bad luck has yet to reach rock bottom.. then again, after everything that has happened, i just keep expecting the worse to come...

LebaneseCam: how'd you get the bolt out?
Sorry to hear that man...that sounds like's times like these where DIY jobs really gets to be a pain in the ass. I tried installing my swarbar on my driveway...I got everything off except one endlink (with the hex bolt on there), and I had to put the stock stuff back on. Went to the mechanics, he did it for $30.

As for your bolt, if you get a bit stuck in there, can you try to take a pair of vise grips actually remove the bolt? Like clamp the visegrips on the drill bit, and try to remove the bolt? Spray in some rust remover or WD-40 or something.
now, tell me you did use lots of penetrating oil right? Or at least WD40..something.....and you let it soak in for a while.
Same thing happened to me when I was doing a DIY install for my TRD rear sway bar in my driveway. Two of the bolts that hold in the bushing brackets snapped on me... So i said fuck a few times, and decided to just take everything out (endlinks and all) and run without a swaybar (which had no negative effect on driveability) until I could get the car to my mechanic who could extract the broken bolts and install everything quicktime with power tools. So I did, and about a year later Im still happy as hell with my swaybar.
yea i soaked all 6 bolts with silicone penetrating lube after i jacked the car up onto stands and before i took the tires off

hey ratko, how much your mechanic charge to do it all?
and also, are the endlinks easy to take off? cuz im thinking about taking off the sway bar completely for now, its too unstable with one side bolted and the other side endlink bolted/w twistie ties
damn, now you got me running scared. In context, seems like a difficult DIY. I am still waiting on my bar and shocks, wonder if I should shop it out?
well the project would have been easy if the damn bolt didnt break.. other than that, it shouldnt have taken more than 30-45 minutes to unbolt and take out the old sway bar and then put in the new one

if your bolts are in decent condition, then you could probably DIY
if there rusted, then maybe you'll want to take it somewhere in case it breaks, or maybe they can use a torch on it before unbolting
installation of rear sway bar is quite easy, took me all up about 1.5hrs. you just need to plan it out and take it easy. Seriously, a rear sway bar can be one of the best easy mods to do.

I remember my bolts werent that rusted, but i sprayed heaps of CRC onto the bolts, left them there, and removed anything else i needed to. by the time i got back they slid out nice and easy...

dont get freaked out by one or two mishaps, you just gotta take ur time, and sometimes you cant avoid badluck like reddog69 here

When you encounter rusted bolts you gotta be careful and take your time. Soak them with some penetrating lube and/or heat them up and then try removing them. You think the bottom of a car is bad, you should try removing some of the rusty, salt infested stuff i deal with on boats :)
Wow, I got so damn lucky!

My 97's install went well, too well, but it was fine.

I was scared to death something would break. I like working on cars, but this car is my 'get me to work and school' car, and it needs to be running, and a issue like that would not be cool.
okay here's an update
i used a torch to torch the shit out of the welded nut on the topside part of the bracket, then used a tapper with a hammer and knocked the nut out.. to my assumption, the broken bolt came off with it

soo i then went to home depot and matched the 2nd bolt for the bushing bracket with one there and bought a matching nut with washers

rubbed some lock tite juice inside the threads of the nut, eased it into the small space above the opening, pushed the bushing bracket flush against the top sway bracket, and screwed the bolt into the nut on top.. i then used a wrench to hold the nut while i tightened the bolt from the bottom

i sure hope i dont have to take this sway bar off again, because getting the bolt to blindly align with the nut on top is a pain

anyways, all is good, dont hear squeaky or clunking and i think its all good
only problem was its been pouring raining all day so couldnt really test its true potential, when i do i just hydroplane :)
^ looking forward to your "handing results test.exe" :D
results... hmmm well, after all the shit ive been through to get it right, i dont think it was worth all that trouble
if the bolt didnt break for me and it only took an hour or so then definitely yes it was worth the trouble
in any case.. the handling is noticably better, even when i jerk the wheel to make fast lane changes doing 65~mph the whole car feels like a "whole" car and doesnt feel like the rear lags responding to the front.. mostly because theres less body roll when turning

taking long curved turns all 4 wheels feel more gripped onto the road, especially at higher speeds to that point just before they start screeching.. i can also accellerate sooner coming out of the turns

all in all, not a bad upgrade, i just had a bad experience

some rims + tires + front strut bar would definitely be a great addition
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