[John M]

after the horrible weather that people are experiencing, and having the car sit for over a week, I started it up.

Started up fine. Very cold outside. Went to go drive it, and the tachometer and engine temperature gauge were out. Also, the power windows didn't work, and those annoying, retarded automatic belts would not move [a plus].

I traced it to the 7.5amp fuse in slot 1, that would be top row slot, closest to the driver's door. I put in another 7.5amp fuse, and it blew within a minute. I put in a 10amp fuse and it didn't blow.

But, as I was replacing the 7.5amp fuse the first time, I noticed the brake light warning light was going on. I asked someone in the lot to look at the brakes as I mashed them, and they did not go on. Car on, or off.

I checked the 20amp fuse in position 3 labelled STOP, which I assume is for the brake lights, and it was and is fine. I checked all other fuses in that impossible to access (unless you are a midget) fuse block near the driver's door. They were all ok.

The brake lights do not work. The switch must be working, as it's not until I start the car then mash on the brakes, that the LIGHTS warning comes up on the dash. So the switch is triggering the box in the truck. Can I just bypass that piece of garbage? I want to put LED lights in anyway, and I know it doesn't work with LED lights and always throws a useless error.

After reading all the threads on here I could find, my suspicion is the poorly-engineered brake warning light box failed. Any ideas?

 

[Orange22RE]

after the horrible weather that people are experiencing, and having the car sit for over a week, I started it up.

Started up fine. Very cold outside. Went to go drive it, and the tachometer and engine temperature gauge were out. Also, the power windows didn't work, and those annoying, retarded automatic belts would not move [a plus].

I traced it to the 7.5amp fuse in slot 1, that would be top row slot, closest to the driver's door. I put in another 7.5amp fuse, and it blew within a minute. I put in a 10amp fuse and it didn't blow.

But, as I was replacing the 7.5amp fuse the first time, I noticed the brake light warning light was going on. I asked someone in the lot to look at the brakes as I mashed them, and they did not go on. Car on, or off.

I checked the 20amp fuse in position 3 labelled STOP, which I assume is for the brake lights, and it was and is fine. I checked all other fuses in that impossible to access (unless you are a midget) fuse block near the driver's door. They were all ok.

The brake lights do not work. The switch must be working, as it's not until I start the car then mash on the brakes, that the LIGHTS warning comes up on the dash. So the switch is triggering the box in the truck. Can I just bypass that piece of garbage? I want to put LED lights in anyway, and I know it doesn't work with LED lights and always throws a useless error.

After reading all the threads on here I could find, my suspicion is the poorly-engineered brake warning light box failed. Any ideas?

You probably have a short to ground somewhere on the vehicle. Short to ground results in a lot extra amperage that blows your fuse.

 

[John M]

Thanks @Orange22RE

Now, my blower turned off, along with my dash indicator fuse blowing again (labelled #1 / GAUGE) as before. I'm pretty sure my blower operated last time. I just had the heat on due to the weather sucking. High, heat, recirc.

I'm not working on anything tonight. It's far too cold and gets dark way too early.

also, what is the secret chinese puzzlebox method to get the two plastic fasteners off that hold the rear center taillight cover on? I just broke them off. Are they supposed to be pushed in on the center? I don't have patience for chinese puzzlebox b.s.

 

[Orange22RE]

Thanks @Orange22RE

Now, my blower turned off, along with my dash indicator fuse blowing again as before. I'm pretty sure my blower operated last time. I just had the heat on due to the weather sucking. High, heat, recirc.

I'm not working on anything tonight. It's far too cold and gets dark way too early.

Sure seems like a short. Wet weather will exacerbate a short. Electricity wants to find a ground and does so more easily with wet weather. You may have a frayed wire somewhere along you chassis It the wire touches metal this will cause a short. It will cause your care to behave in all kinds of crazy ways.

If you have a wiring diagram to your vehicle you may be able to trace the problem circuits. Also look for water intrusion in wire connections, loose or poor connections on ground points. Cars have several ground points. You blower and brake lights may share the same ground. If you have a wiring diagram that will tell you where they are. Commonly they are in the engine bay or in the kick panels inside your vehicle.

 

[white90dx]

also, what is the secret chinese puzzlebox method to get the two plastic fasteners off that hold the rear center taillight cover on? I just broke them off. Are they supposed to be pushed in on the center? I don't have patience for chinese puzzlebox b.s.

Yes, the center pops in about 1/4", then the inner and outer sections slide right out.

-Charlie

 

[white90dx]

I traced it to the 7.5amp fuse in slot 1

That's the 'GAUGE' fuse, so that makes sense with what was out. It powers a ton of different little things.

The rear light failure sensor box can be easily bypassed. First unplug it and see if the fuse still blows with the correct value - make sure that's the issue.

To bypass the rear light failure sensor box:

• Remove box (hopefully obvious)
• Connect the Green-White and Green-Red wires together
• Connect the Green and Light Green wires together
• Leave the Yellow, Yellow-Green, and White-Black wires alone

-Charlie