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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Long story short truck was stolen came back with blown head, motor was rebuilt at home mostly by neighbor, steering column replaced plus much more, and there is no spark. Neighbor has been using what he knows and primarily utube for guidance. First issue solved was to sand off some of the added, bomb can paint in the engine compartment to get ground; semi-ish assume ground has been adequately established but he was looking at steering column (?ignition switch/? Some sort of safety neutral switch) was the first approach. Second problem was the coil pack(s?) As there was no voltage coming out of it; he did more steering column looking.

Question Set 1: Are there any wires, or is there any electrical connectivity, between battery/from battery and steering column/dash before the coil? Are there any wires, or is there any electrical connectivity, to the steering column/dash between the coil and the distributor?

Question Set 2: Again, I'm not a mechanic - The battery sends out 12v. What kind of reading should we be expecting leading into the distributor from the wire that comes from the coil if all is functioning? What/how should we be looking at surrounding the distributor. Is it wrong to think that power goes into the distributor and comes out of the distributor via the cap wires? The cap wires plug in therefore one should be able to remove a wire and get a reading from the distributors side of the cap?
Not sure if this has been tested but it seems I've seen it done before on other vehicles. Is it possible to have power coming out on one/some but not all of the distributor cap plugs?

It is a low energy, regular cap which is new; I'm gathering this is the difference between an r22 and an r22 it. The points are new but am not convinced they were gapped. The spark plugs are new and came pre-gapped and my bet is the gap wasn't checked because they were pre-gapped; even so im told there is no spark (electricity) coming into the plugs.

Question 3: Are there any wires, or connectivity, in or off the distributor back and forth from the steering column, ignition switch, or dash that are required for the distributor to function? Anything that would allow power into the distributor from the coil but prevent power from functioning within the distributor?

1995 T100 2WD & 1993 MR2
5,957 Posts
Lots to digest there! Suggestion, you'll get more replys if you ask specfice questions than tell a story unless your explaining the problem to preface the question you have or to say what you've tried in an attempt to rectify a problem.
So, Truck has a 22R or 22RE? Automatic Transmission or manual? What did the steering come out of?
I'll do what I can with what you asked.

Question 1: Yes! But since a new column was installed that's the best I can offer. Wire, fuses, key, junction boxes, solenoid, harness ground wires. Just to name a few.

Question 2: Which wires are you taking readings to and from. And no you can't get a proper reading by pulling plug wires and checking at the cap. Yes it is possible some plug wires fail to get power, usually due to a bad distributor component like the cap. Concerning "Gaps" if the points aren't gapped correctly the spark either can't make the leap or if to close the points will fry. Plug gaps from the manufacturer are usually close enough that even if not right" on", the truck would still run.

Question 3: See answer to #2

Welcome to the Neghborhood, we'll do what we can for ya!
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