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Discussion Starter #1
first off, thanks, in advance, for any help y'all can give. i bought a one owner '98 avalon xls for my son w/ 55,000 (fifty-five) miles. he's had the car for about 3 months and it seems the car is running great...except for the dreaded check engine light that just came on. i told him to take it to auto zone and find out what the error code is pointing us toward. az determined the error code was PO135...and printed out the definition as follows:

HO2S11 heater condition (heated oxygen sensor bank 1 sensor 1. it goes on to say the powertrain control module monitors the oxygen sensor heater...etc. etc.

az gave a parts quote for two part numbers (Bosch 15733...$68.00 for universal fit & Bosch 13355...$99.00 for exact fit.)

after reading through a few posts on oxygen sensors for the avalon, it appears i may be heading down a dangerous and costly path by thinking i may be able to fix this problem myself and thereby saving $$$. seems there is more than 1 o2 sensor and i could end up changing the wrong one...or...i could have other problems in addition to the o2 sensor. i've also read where there is a sensor near the firewall that can be a real bear to get at....requiring special tool....or needing to be marinated with some sort of penetrant as it is very difficult to remove. so....here are my questions.

1. should i attempt to fix this myself and be confident (sure) i am really replacing a bad sensor? i hate to throw away good money/parts if i get it wrong...or if it's really something other than the sensor. oh yeah, how do i reset the check engine light after the repair?

2. what if i take it to the toyota dealer??? any thoughts on how much this will cost? if i take it to toyota, at least i should be confident they have identified and fixed the real problem the FIRST time.

again, thanks for your input.

p.s. anybody care to suggest a relatively inexpensive approach to getting new wheels?? these alloy wheels are really an eye-sore as they have peeled, corroded, etc.....and now i have one that won't allow for a good wheel to tire bead seal and loses air.
 

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Bank 1 sensor 1 is definitely the rear bank; closest to the firewall. That is *almost* certainly what's wrong, based on my own experience and from what I've read on this board. I had this same code on my '95 Avy a while back. I replaced the O2 sensor; problem solved. I got the new one at Rockauto.com. It's hard to beat their prices.

In my case, it wasn't too difficult to replace. Go after it from underneath. I put the car on ramps. It was a little tight quarters getting a wrench on it, but not ridiculous. The potential difficulty is that the old one can be bound up quite tightly, making it impossible to get it unscrewed.

I'd say before you order/buy a new sensor, see if you can crack the old one loose. If you can, tighten it back up & order a new sensor. If you decide it's too difficult to even get a wrench on it, then take it to a shop.

I'd guess a dealer would charge for about an hour of labor to do it. So somewhere around $120 for labor + $160 for the sensor, so around $300 total.
 

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30YRTOYOTAPARTSEXPERINCE
04 Camry; 09 Sienna
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Bank 1 Sensor 1. PM sent regarding some helpful information. It shouldn't be to hard to do, but if the sensor gets stuck, don't mess with it, let a professional do it.

I do offer TN members 30% off MSRP on Genuine OEM Toyota parts and I only charge actual shipping costs plus $1.00 - $2.00 for materials, etc.

If you have any questions, don't hestiate to contact me.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
thanks bmr, toyotapartsman, csaxon.....great info and very nice of y'all to answer my call for help. much appreciated!!!

i'm now tempted to tackle the job myself....and i emphasize the word "tempted". i'm still not sure i have the confidence. first off, how likely is it that auto zone accurately diagnosed my problem? they give 3 probable causes (1) o2 sensor defective (2) poor connection at o2 sensor (3) check circuit-fuse. keep in mind, the car seems to be performing just fine and has been for the 3 months i've had it.

second, if auto zone is right about it being directly related to bank 1, sensor 1, is the picture posted by csaxon accurately pointing toward THAT specific sensor? no offense, just trying to be sure since i'm learning there are more than one of these o2 sensors and i'd hate to get it wrong.

third, if i do buy a new sensor, i've read where it's best not to re-use the "plug" from the old sensor. if this is true, does the denso 234-4622 come with a new plug??? is there a better sensor choice than denso??? which one?

based on what i'm learning, it sounds like a good idea to spray some type of penetrant on the sensor before trying to remove as apparently they can be somewhat difficult/stubborn. is this true? for those who have actually removed/replaced bank 1, sensor 1, just how difficult is the procedure? how long did it take? what tool(s) are required??? seems i've read there is a special socket to be used.....is this true and if so, where do i get one?

again, thanks ALL who have helped me out.
 

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30YRTOYOTAPARTSEXPERINCE
04 Camry; 09 Sienna
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thanks bmr, toyotapartsman, csaxon.....great info and very nice of y'all to answer my call for help. much appreciated!!!

i'm now tempted to tackle the job myself....and i emphasize the word "tempted". i'm still not sure i have the confidence. first off, how likely is it that auto zone accurately diagnosed my problem? they give 3 probable causes (1) o2 sensor defective (2) poor connection at o2 sensor (3) check circuit-fuse. keep in mind, the car seems to be performing just fine and has been for the 3 months i've had it. Can't speak about there diag, but I did send you info on the P0135 code that narrows it down to B1 S1. Given the nature that this is fairly common, I'd say that the high percentage is in favor of the sensor failing.

second, if auto zone is right about it being directly related to bank 1, sensor 1, is the picture posted by csaxon accurately pointing toward THAT specific sensor? no offense, just trying to be sure since i'm learning there are more than one of these o2 sensors and i'd hate to get it wrong.

The picture that csaxon posted is B1 S1 and is in the correct location.

third, if i do buy a new sensor, i've read where it's best not to re-use the "plug" from the old sensor. if this is true, does the denso 234-4622 come with a new plug??? is there a better sensor choice than denso??? which one?

Denso is actually the OEM manufacturer, I don't know about the aftermarket sources, but the made for Toyota does come with the plug.

based on what i'm learning, it sounds like a good idea to spray some type of penetrant on the sensor before trying to remove as apparently they can be somewhat difficult/stubborn. is this true? for those who have actually removed/replaced bank 1, sensor 1, just how difficult is the procedure? how long did it take? what tool(s) are required??? seems i've read there is a special socket to be used.....is this true and if so, where do i get one?

I can tell you that you should use PB blaster on that and do so a couple of times. As far as the rest goes, you'll have to get the expert advise from those who actually do the work, I am not a tech so here is where I have to defer to someone who is more qualified than me.
again, thanks ALL who have helped me out.
Remember, if you do decide to go OEM, I offer 30% off MSRP and I only charge actual Shipping costs.

Good luck
 

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i'm now tempted to tackle the job myself....and i emphasize the word "tempted". i'm still not sure i have the confidence. first off, how likely is it that auto zone accurately diagnosed my problem? they give 3 probable causes (1) o2 sensor defective (2) poor connection at o2 sensor (3) check circuit-fuse. keep in mind, the car seems to be performing just fine and has been for the 3 months i've had it.
Yes, those are all possibilities. for (2), you could try disconnecting the sensor (the connector is at the end of about a foot of wire) and seeing if it's corroded or broken. Maybe try just mating/demating it a few times just in case it just needs to make better contact. For (3), you could just check the fuse?... Can't help you there, I don't know which fuse nor where it would be. But like I said earlier, 9 times out of 10 it's the sensor. BTW, here's a link with a more descriptive explanation of that P0135 code. The heater in the O2 sensor isn't working; a very common failure mode for O2 sensors.

second, if auto zone is right about it being directly related to bank 1, sensor 1, is the picture posted by csaxon accurately pointing toward THAT specific sensor? no offense, just trying to be sure since i'm learning there are more than one of these o2 sensors and i'd hate to get it wrong.
Yep, csaxon is showing you the correct sensor. The other bank's, bank 2 sensor 1, is on the front of the engine, near the radiator. It's sticking out in plain view, can't miss it. The 3rd sensor (bank 1, sensor 2) is downstream from the catalytic converter.

third, if i do buy a new sensor, i've read where it's best not to re-use the "plug" from the old sensor. if this is true, does the denso 234-4622 come with a new plug??? is there a better sensor choice than denso??? which one?
Yeah, I've read that too. I've almost always re-used the plug and never had a problem. Just do a good job of soldering the wires, and use heat shrink tubing to cover the joint. It'll be fine. Now, if the connector is all screwed up from corrosion or damaged, then yes, definitely get one with the connector.

From what I've read, Denso is the OEM for most of Toyota's O2 sensors. So that's the safest choice, IMHO. Some people swear by(at) Bosch, saying they just don't work well with Toyotas. I used one once, didn't have any issues.

According to Denso's online catalog, that 234-4622 sensor *does* come with the plug. The "universal" sensor, 234-4209, does not. Same sensor, just plug Vs no plug.

based on what i'm learning, it sounds like a good idea to spray some type of penetrant on the sensor before trying to remove as apparently they can be somewhat difficult/stubborn. is this true? for those who have actually removed/replaced bank 1, sensor 1, just how difficult is the procedure? how long did it take? what tool(s) are required??? seems i've read there is a special socket to be used.....is this true and if so, where do i get one?
The difficulty is entirely dependent on how "stuck" the sensor's threads are. Mine wasn't bad at all. I didn't use any penetrant, but it couldn't hurt to do so. Took me 30 minutes or so. I used a box-end wrench. There *is* a special socket for them, but the need for that depends on how difficult access is to the sensor. Any auto parts store should be have them for sale.

Hope that helps, and good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I guess I'll try to replace it myself. From what I'm reading, a 22mm wrench will need to be used to remove/replace. Since this is my son's car and he has it with him at school (80 miles away), this is a "sight unseen" situation. Therefore, can anybody give me some tips that will help make this "difficult to get to" job a little easier???

Is disconnecting/re-connecting of the wiring the most difficult??? Any tips for doing this?

Can I EASILY remove something that would make access to the sensor/connector easier??? What (specifically) would it be? Pictures anyone???

Anti-seize material needing to be applied????? Will this come with a new sensor?

Once (and if) I'm successful in replacing the o2 sensor, will the CEL automatically turn off...or will it have to be reset??? How do I reset?
 

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I guess I'll try to replace it myself. From what I'm reading, a 22mm wrench will need to be used to remove/replace. Since this is my son's car and he has it with him at school (80 miles away), this is a "sight unseen" situation. Therefore, can anybody give me some tips that will help make this "difficult to get to" job a little easier???

Is disconnecting/re-connecting of the wiring the most difficult??? Any tips for doing this?

Can I EASILY remove something that would make access to the sensor/connector easier??? What (specifically) would it be? Pictures anyone???

Anti-seize material needing to be applied????? Will this come with a new sensor?

Once (and if) I'm successful in replacing the o2 sensor, will the CEL automatically turn off...or will it have to be reset??? How do I reset?
The connector has a latching feature to it; it has to be pushed or pulled (don't remember which) to allow the connector halves to separate. Sometimes they're a bit balky, but normally it's pretty easy.

I doubt there's anything that can easily be removed to make access easier. I didn't have much trouble with mine so I didn't really look for anything like that.

Anti-seize might come with the new sensor. I think mine did. If not, any auto parts store has it. Just tell 'em what you're doing and they'll know what to sell you. I think I've seen it in little ketchup-packet-like containers so you don't have to buy a humongous tube that'll never get used up. It's a good idea to use it for the next person who has to replace the sensor 100k miles from now.

The check engine light will go out by itself. If I remember correctly, mine stayed un-lit immediately after replacing the sensor. I *think* the computer stores the code for a while and then eventually deletes it.

If the CE light doesn't go off by itself, it can be reset by pulling and reseating the EFI fuse. On my Avalon, it's in the fusebox under the hood right next to the battery. There's a label on the underside of the lid showing which one is the EFI fuse.

Edit:
Oh, one more thing, in case it's not obvious. Let the engine cool down before working on this. Things get REALLY hot down there!
 

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The connector has a latching feature to it; it has to be pushed or pulled (don't remember which) to allow the connector halves to separate. Sometimes they're a bit balky, but normally it's pretty easy.
I fail to seperate them. Would you please give me more details?

By the way? Is the Bosch one OK? Or nees I buy a denso OEM one.

Thanks.

Figure of the connector:

http://www.mitbbs.com/article_t/Automobile/32443901.html
 

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words of wisdom...

Here are some words of wisdom from experience:

Skip Bosch and buy Denso. Denso is the OEM.
Try loosening the sensor with 7/8" (22 mm) wrench.
Spray w WD-40
Be sure engine is cooled off.
If Ok, unplug the connector.
If Ok, go out and buy new sensor. You are capable of doing the job your self.
 

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words of wisdom, continued

oops I forgot, the Denso pn is 2349007
Good Luck. It would be wise to keep bandaids nearby.:Bruce:
...in case of scratches.
 
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