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asyriuscamry
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I may be imagining things but i swear it feels like its shifting differently now. Havent noticed any leaks so far, only been a couple days though. Im almost scared that it could be leaking out the rear seal and somehow getting into the tranny or torque converter somehow. . . God i hope thats not it. Keeping an eye on the levels. Could it be the lower resistance from the oil making the engine just respond quicker ya think? Idk i only switched to synthetic because on cold mornings the engines rather noisy and it worried me.

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I also just switched over to synthetic at high mileage (275k), hoping I don't start seeing lots of leaks. So far no difference but only about 700 miles in.

Can't one simply switch back to conventional if more leaking occurs with synthetic?

BTW I only switched because I'm now living in a colder climate and the morning temps are quite low. Otherwise the cars always been happy with conventional oil with proper OCI.
I switched to full synthetic on my 02 Rav4 with 222K and noticed that the car was burning more oil between changes. So the next oil change I used full synthetic but this time High Milage oil and this time the car was burning much less oil between oil changes and no leaks in any case. I also live in cold are, Chicago and definitely full synthetic oil helped during morning starts. I went with full synthetic only because the Rav4 engine is VVT-I but on my 99 Camry I went back to semi-synthetic High Milage oil to get the least oil burning between oil changes, maybe half a quart needed. During the upcoming spring and summer months I will be changing back to conventional high milage oil on both cars for least possible oil consumption.
 

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asyriuscamry
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Ok, i was nervous about it but my camry is a 2000 (kinda old, i get it) one owner with 168k miles. Everything on it seems straight, prolly doesnt even need synthetic. It just sounded like it had a light knock on cold start up on cold mornings. Luckily from what everyone has told me, switching back is no big deal so at least theres that.

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short-throw dipstick
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I also just switched over to synthetic at high mileage (275k), hoping I don't start seeing lots of leaks. So far no difference but only about 700 miles in.

Can't one simply switch back to conventional if more leaking occurs with synthetic?

BTW I only switched because I'm now living in a colder climate and the morning temps are quite low. Otherwise the cars always been happy with conventional oil with proper OCI.
You know, that would be something to try out...every time one of my or a client's cars started leaking after synthetic, I/they had me reseal the engine.

I did the Blackstone Labs spiel when I switched one of my favorite cars to a different synthetic (Saab 9-3 Viggen, switched from Amsoil to Mobil1) and they said I could push 15k on an oil change. I didn't want to risk it on the Viggen, what with the PCV issues, so I decided to try it on my '95 (Mobil1 or Pennzoil full synthetic 5W-30 only). My OCI is 15k with mixed city and highway driving, everything's been working fine for three changes so far \o/. I'll post a pic of my valves when I get a chance, no sludge to speak of...although that's probably more due to highway mileage (vs. city-only).

I may be imagining things but i swear it feels like its shifting differently now. Havent noticed any leaks so far, only been a couple days though. Im almost scared that it could be leaking out the rear seal and somehow getting into the tranny or torque converter somehow. . . God i hope thats not it. Keeping an eye on the levels. Could it be the lower resistance from the oil making the engine just respond quicker ya think? Idk i only switched to synthetic because on cold mornings the engines rather noisy and it worried me.

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It would have to be leaking REALLY bad for that to happen. Also, the lower flexplate cover has a little opening: if it was leaking badly enough to affect the torque converter, you would see it dripping out there. Also #2, the torque converter is fed from the trans fluid pump and there's a shaft seal that should prevent oil getting in. If you could get oil in the torque converter, then trans fluid would also be dripping out.

Oh my god what kind of paranoia did I induce with my comment :surprise:. I dunno, I think you just feel better about having syn in it...if it's noisy (sewing machine) on startup, or even while running, it may be time for a valve clearance adjustment.

I switched to full synthetic on my 02 Rav4 with 222K and noticed that the car was burning more oil between changes. So the next oil change I used full synthetic but this time High Milage oil and this time the car was burning much less oil between oil changes and no leaks in any case. I also live in cold are, Chicago and definitely full synthetic oil helped during morning starts. I went with full synthetic only because the Rav4 engine is VVT-I but on my 99 Camry I went back to semi-synthetic High Milage oil to get the least oil burning between oil changes, maybe half a quart needed. During the upcoming spring and summer months I will be changing back to conventional high milage oil on both cars for least possible oil consumption.
You know what, I've seen oil burning go down with synthetic usage but I think I'm the outlier here. I know the high mileage stuff is supposed to help with burning...how're your valve stem seals/piston rings?
 

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short-throw dipstick
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Not sure but to my ear things sound OK, no knocking or anything. No problems with compression, cars drive great so far.
Cool. If valve stem seals are shot, classic symptom is blue smoke from the tailpipe on startup or taking off from idle.
 

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Cool. If valve stem seals are shot, classic symptom is blue smoke from the tailpipe on startup or taking off from idle.
I think I am OK as my smoke in the morning is more of a greyish/white. Since new, I've been changing oil every 3-5 K/Mil so I would expect for the engine to be in an OK state. In the end these are Toyotas so anything less would be unacceptable to me, lol.
 

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asyriuscamry
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If it makes you feel better, i was super paranoid about switching anyways. My mom and dad have both gotten over 300k miles on multiple toyotas and it was all on regular conventional pennsoil and fram or purolater oil filters. So it took alot for me to even consider synthetic in the first place because, well ive seen how good conventional oil can be.

Not to mention ive been a creature of habit for years, always change the oil at the same intervals, check the same stuff, use the same brands. So i definitely stepped out of my comfort zone haha. I will note that it still "knocks" a lil on cold mornings but it goes away quicker and is not as loud. I'll feel 100% better if when i put an oil psi gauge on it, it says its doing fine.

Converesely, do you guys know what the minimum acceptable oil psi is for those cars?

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short-throw dipstick
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If it makes you feel better, i was super paranoid about switching anyways. My mom and dad have both gotten over 300k miles on multiple toyotas and it was all on regular conventional pennsoil and fram or purolater oil filters. So it took alot for me to even consider synthetic in the first place because, well ive seen how good conventional oil can be.

Not to mention ive been a creature of habit for years, always change the oil at the same intervals, check the same stuff, use the same brands. So i definitely stepped out of my comfort zone haha. I will note that it still "knocks" a lil on cold mornings but it goes away quicker and is not as loud. I'll feel 100% better if when i put an oil psi gauge on it, it says its doing fine.

Converesely, do you guys know what the minimum acceptable oil psi is for those cars?

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Honestly, I use synthetic in everything I have now, but there are some cars where I would never use anything but (like my Northstar-powered DeVille...the carbon build-up problems would get much worse with conventional). My uncle's '95 5S-FE gets 5-7.5k oil changes, but he exclusively drives in the city. Everything else is anywhere from 10k (my '95) to 20k (2013 Corolla).

Specs for oil pressure for 5S-FE:

At idle - 4.3 PSI or more
At 3k RPM - 36-71 PSI
 

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asyriuscamry
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Honestly, I use synthetic in everything I have now, but there are some cars where I would never use anything but (like my Northstar-powered DeVille...the carbon build-up problems would get much worse with conventional). My uncle's '95 5S-FE gets 5-7.5k oil changes, but he exclusively drives in the city. Everything else is anywhere from 10k (my '95) to 20k (2013 Corolla).

Specs for oil pressure for 5S-FE:

At idle - 4.3 PSI or more
At 3k RPM - 36-71 PSI
At idle (well warmed up) i got 15-17 lbs and at 3k i got close to 70. Interestingly it was actually at 20lbs at idle (warm) and it dropped to about 15-17 when i put it in gear then when i put it back in park it didnt really go back up. It stayed at 15-17.

I have noticed it leaking a bit more but still not much. I think i read on here somewhere that the high mileage synthetic helps that. Ill try it out next time maybe and see how it helps, noticed on Amazon prime today that they sell mobile 1 synthetic HM for 25 bucks and toyota filters for 7, ay grab that for next time.

Thanks for all the help guys, I'm a bit of a hypochondriac when it comes to cars and coming here usually eases my mind a good bit.

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short-throw dipstick
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At idle (well warmed up) i got 15-17 lbs and at 3k i got close to 70. Interestingly it was actually at 20lbs at idle (warm) and it dropped to about 15-17 when i put it in gear then when i put it back in park it didnt really go back up. It stayed at 15-17.

I have noticed it leaking a bit more but still not much. I think i read on here somewhere that the high mileage synthetic helps that. Ill try it out next time maybe and see how it helps, noticed on Amazon prime today that they sell mobile 1 synthetic HM for 25 bucks and toyota filters for 7, ay grab that for next time.

Thanks for all the help guys, I'm a bit of a hypochondriac when it comes to cars and coming here usually eases my mind a good bit.

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Yeah I think HM oil has a lot more seal swellers/conditioners added. About filters, I stocked up on Denso First Time Fit ones on my last RA auto, about half the price. I bet the Toyota one is a rebranded Denso.
 

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I do not understand what the author means by "Taurus Upsize" when referring to oil filter part numbers. I know that Ford makes a car called the Taurus, but that is the only automotive reference I am aware of, so I wonder why a ford product is being referenced in a Toyota thread.

I am the new owner of a gen4 Camry with a 265,000 mile 5sfe, & about to change its oil after flushing out a batch of oil that was contaminated with brake cleaner, and re-sealing the oil pan. I need this car to last me a long time, so any knowledge that can help me keep the oil and the engine internals cleaner than average, & extend the life of this engine (& drivetrain) will help!

So, can anyone clarify this "Taurus Upsize" thing?
Late reply but...

The "Taurus" filter is the filter originally designed for the Ford Taurus 3.0 OHV Vulcan V6. This filter is significantly larger than the Toyota options, has the same internal pressures, and seals against a Toyota engine without any problems. It's larger size allows significantly more dirt holding capacity and increased oil system capacity. It also costs the same as the other filters. It's basically better at everything with no drawbacks. The holding capacity is especially important as the filter will likely never go into bypass from clogging (which results in unfiltered oil going through the engine).

Basically as you move down the list from 5SFE to Taurus, the filter gets larger.

An example of all filters by brand that fit a particular engine (say a 1997 5SFE) by size would be the following:

Purolator PureOne:

1. PL14476 - Specified Filter - Smallest available
2. PL14477 - 2AZFE Specified Filter - Upsized version of the above
3. PL10241 - 1MZFE/3VZFE Specified Filter - Upsized of PL14477
4. PL20195 - Taurus 3.0 Vulcan Specified Filter - Upsized filter compared with both the 1MZFE/3VZFE Spec Filter and even the Toyota V8/Large 6 (2UZFE, 1GRFE, 1FZFE, etc.) 90915-YZZD3 Filter

My Sequoia with its 2UZFE V8 uses the Taurus Upsized and so does my Corolla with its 1ZZFE that originally specified the tiny 5SFE sized filter.

Hope that clears things up.
 

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Ijust got 92 camry 5speed 200k even slight grinding what's the best gear oil for it also, other day it was trying to stall in between shifts, and was jerking like a bad o2 sensor n it has new o2 sensors,check engine light came on and web back off after shifting very weird. Anyone figure this out??
 

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short-throw dipstick
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Ijust got 92 camry 5speed 200k even slight grinding what's the best gear oil for it also, other day it was trying to stall in between shifts, and was jerking like a bad o2 sensor n it has new o2 sensors,check engine light came on and web back off after shifting very weird. Anyone figure this out??
I have an '88 Hilux with a Aisin W46 4-speed trans, and I recently switched to Redline MT-90 GL-4. Such an awesome change...everything is much smoother, little grind is gone. Bit expensive though, think I paid $55/gal on Amazon for two gals, have some left over after the diff.

I heard GM Synchromesh MT fluids help with synchro issues in Toyota trans of this vintage. Haven't tried it.

You should short the TE1 and E1 pins on the underhood or underdash connectors to get the CEL to blink out the codes.

EDIT: Forgot, https://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=46&pcid=7
 

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short-throw dipstick
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Dave in KCMO
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Clarification - this refers to the 2003 Camry

Yes it does. Open the glove box and reach behind it - you can remove it without disassembly. I have replaced mine in the past.
Went to a Speedy oil change place, they asked if I wanted to change it, I said, "Show me what it looks like", then declined and got a cheap one online = 30 second job.
 

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short-throw dipstick
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No. But I know there is one in the lexus es300, and you can modify the gen 4 camry to accept the filter and use it!
gen3 has the door clipped in, so if you open it you can slip in the ES300 filter and let the good times roll. I think gen4 has the "door" molded, so you would have to Dremel it out. Not sure if it can be upgraded. When I have some spare time at the junkyard I'll cut one open and see.

Yes it does. Open the glove box and reach behind it - you can remove it without disassembly. I have replaced mine in the past.
Went to a Speedy oil change place, they asked if I wanted to change it, I said, "Show me what it looks like", then declined and got a cheap one online = 30 second job.
Didn't they move to the glove-box air filter in the gen5?
 
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