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Super Moderator
2005 Corolla CE
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Discussion Starter #101
So, I just was able to upgrade from my old Avalon to a newer, '11 Camry, V6. Looking thru the book, it still recommends dino oil at a 5k OCI, which I was surprised at. I thought by then, they be recommending synths and 10k.

Would it be OK to go with the synths and the longer OCI? I'd rather not pour thru all that oil if it isn't needed.
If you are out of warranty, yes. If you are in warranty, do what Toyota says.
 

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Super Moderator
2005 Corolla CE
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Discussion Starter #102
Working my way through, so far seems a good start, At least getting a lot of parts names and types I really do need, and thanks for that...really a superior effort.
Late reply but thank you.

marcopolish said:
But I have one question, so far: I stopped cold at the engine oil section when you said changes at 3000 is a waste, that is now turning out to be pretty much ill informed
It is not ill informed. Here's why:

1. It wasn't a general statement on oil. At the very least, I am SPECIFICALLY discussing synthetic oils. Synthetic oils are superior in nearly every metric compared to their non-synthetic counterparts. This includes shear stability, additive stability, additive package, viscosity index, and overall life. These oils clean better, last longer, and work in more environments than even the modern SN conventional oils, which themselves are not even in the same league as the older oils.

2. The 3K mile oil change myth is heavily discussed online. A quick google search of the terms "3K mile oil change myth" will yield a mountain of info on how wasteful a 3K mile oil change is, even on modern conventional oils. Waste of oil versus perception of good is up to the individual to decide. However you would have to provide overwhelming information to convince me that unless you are under the absolute extreme conditions, ANY modern oil is worn out by 3K miles. Here are some quick examples:

http://www.edmunds.com/car-care/stop-changing-your-oil.html
http://www.nytimes.com/2010/09/11/your-money/11shortcuts.html?_r=0

3. While also contributing to this forum, I was a dealership technician, military vehicle mechanic, maintain all my own vehicles, and currently maintain around 16 other vehicles as a personal mechanic. My views are nearly always based on my verified experience, and when not based on experience I almost always explicitly state so. I never recommend something I didn't try myself.

marcopolish said:
You see, a whole generation of cars now with those extended oil change intervals are turning out to have loads of clogging varnish and other gunk, leading to later time failures, as a result of outlasting the all-important cleaning/conditioning and metals additives that really do start to run out at 3000-3500, much less the 5000 and 6000 and 10000 intervals and longer,
This statement makes a LOT of assumptions without any supporting information. I would love to see a modern engine with a modern oil that has "loads of clogging varnish and other gunk" from going over 3K miles. All my vehicles ran conventional oil changes until being swapped to synthetic and all have absolutely SPOTLESS engines. You really have to see under the valve cover of my Corolla to appreciate how immaculate it is underneath. It looks like a brand new engine and has 138K miles. This is from consistent use of high quality oils, at reasonable intervals. Does this mean I put 50K miles on my Pennzoil Platinum? No not at all. However a 5K - 10K interval has been time and time again to show zero effect on engine wear with this relatively inexpensive synthetic oil.

You should check a forum like bobistheoilguy.com and search for UOA (used oil analysis) results from various engines. Some owners are running oils to 10K miles and more without a hiccup. Now are you going to take that $2 quart of SL based Texaco oil that sat on your garage shelf and run it to 10K miles? Absolutely not. The point is that nearly every modern oil is good for a minimum 5K mile oil change and even higher when going to synthetics. Most vehicles running 10K mile oil change intervals have modern engines with synthetic oil only recommendations.

Here are some oil UOA results:

2008 Highlander with 11K on Pennzoil Platinum -

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=3116956

GM 2.4 with 12K on oil -

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B9lR6_sgEHpdWWJYVXVKUzZvX3M/edit?pli=1

2006 Tacoma with 7K on Mobil 1 0W30 AFE -

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2948065

Subaru Forester 2.5 with 12K on Mobil 1 AFE -

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2782894

85 Corolla with a 240K 4AC engine runnin 5W20 Pennzoil for over 5K miles -

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2672883

01 Suburban Mobil 5000 over 5K -

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2773727

These show consistent across the board good results with over 5K intervals on all engines types. Synthetics are out of this world in comparison.

There is no way any modern oil additive is worn out by 3K miles.

marcopolish said:
and also, what about all those shavings that continue to circulate over all the engine parts instead of getting removed at the next oil change?
Part of a high quality oil change includes a high quality oil filter. Good oil cleans the engine and a good oil filter picks it up. In general, if it passes through a high quality filter, it isn't harming your engine.

marcopolish said:
So where are you getting your information on that? So I'm not sure what to think about that sweeping idea about forget about the basic 3K change.
Research and experience. The 3K mile oil change ship sailed long ago for me. I haven't done a 3K oil change since 2007.

marcopolish said:
Really not sure I'd want to risk it, also don't want to risk buying something that's already been subjected to those long OICs from having been leased or people taking literally the "oh, it's no problem" OEM recommendations
Your choices are your choices. The overwhelming data and research will show that longer intervals save money on oil changes, avoid dumping perfectly good oil, and your engine won't know the difference.

With that said, I do not blindly accept manufacturer recommendations. I am a major advocate for getting a UOA for your engine and oil change interval. I also use reasonable intervals based on the research I have done and my experience. That is why I like 30-60K transmission fluid replacement, 60-80K coolant replacement, and 3yr P/S and brake fluid replacement. None of it is arbitrary.

marcopolish said:
which seem to me designed to answer the problem of all those leased cars where the person has no incentive to get their scheduled maintenance on time (which is why I think so many of leases now offer free oil changes), or the consumers who just don't want to bother, and try to get you into a new car instead of making your current one last. One way to do that is to lure you into trashing doing your scheduled maintenance.
There is nothing new about this. The same arguments came out when platinum plugs came out and people didn't want to leave plugs in an engine for 60K miles, then the same when Iridium came out and people didn't want to leave them in for 100K miles. Cars get more low maintenance as time progresses. Cars used to have points ignition system and now have COP. Cars used to need cable adjustments and now transmissions are fully electronically controlled. Some of the manufacturer recommendations are to lower cost of ownership. However some of them are just fine. It is up to you to decide what is best. How good someone does or does not maintain their vehicle is irrelevant of what the recommended oil change interval is. If your interval is 3K miles, someone can still do a 10K mile oil change. If you want to purchase a high quality car, ask for maintenance history.

Customers wanting to move into a new car is more an issue with our society and economy than the manufacturer recommend maintenance interval. I doubt you could show me one 2010+ I4 Camry that got consistent 10K synthetic oil changes with ANY oil related failures.

You are free to maintain your vehicle how you see fit, however I disagree with your assertions on this topic.
 

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2009 V6 Camry SE Owner
2009 V6 Camry SE
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12 Posts
I sent a PM about this earlier, but for anyone interested in an explanation here it is.

The Gen6/6.5 2GRFE PCV Valve part number is listed in original post as being 12204-31120. However, on paper, this is the part number for Gen6.5 only.

I ordered the 12204-31120 PCV Valve from a dealer, and they shipped me 12204-31040 instead because it is what matched my 2009 VIN.

12204-31040 was replaced by the 12204-31120 sometime in 2010, but they are interchangeable for 2GRFE engines :)
 

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MyBruthasKeepa
2010 Toyota Camry X
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4 Posts
Excuse me, Im new.

Question:
I have a 2010 Camry XLE 4 Cyl 2.5 L i recently had a mechanic replace my struts all the way around w/ stabilizer links. . Long story short, I went to him because money is hard to come by even with 2 jobs, so i couldnt have the repair done at the shop at a reasonable price, nor could I purchase the parts piece by piece and bring them to any shop here.

I researched the parts online, and purchased Monroe Quick struts and Moog stabilizer Links for the front and rear. I sat and watched the mechanic replace them to make sure he wasnt taking any short cuts, and asked questions along the way. However, the replacement still has not restore the ride back to anywhere near original. And it seems just as bad, what else could it be?
 

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Moderator
2015 4 Runner SR5
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3,611 Posts
Excuse me, Im new.

Question:
I have a 2010 Camry XLE 4 Cyl 2.5 L i recently had a mechanic replace my struts all the way around w/ stabilizer links. . Long story short, I went to him because money is hard to come by even with 2 jobs, so i couldnt have the repair done at the shop at a reasonable price, nor could I purchase the parts piece by piece and bring them to any shop here.

I researched the parts online, and purchased Monroe Quick struts and Moog stabilizer Links for the front and rear. I sat and watched the mechanic replace them to make sure he wasnt taking any short cuts, and asked questions along the way. However, the replacement still has not restore the ride back to anywhere near original. And it seems just as bad, what else could it be?
Hi Ben, welcome to the site.

Quick struts are not the original, so you may not get the original ride back by going to those. Not sure what the 2010 XLE OEM strut is, but my 2009 SE strut is different than the LE/XLE variants, due to the SE. As such, if I changed those for, say, Monroe struts, I would get a different ride feel.

What prompted you to change all the struts? Just curious. Many folks at this site have indicated quick struts are not great, and inferior to what the car came with from the factory. But I am sure others have good experiences. Main thing is: OEM gives you OEM ride. Aftermarket struts will probably be different.
 

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Super Moderator
2005 Corolla CE
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14,605 Posts
Discussion Starter #106
Added info on Denso Iridium Twin Tip plugs.
 

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Super Moderator
2005 Corolla CE
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14,605 Posts
Discussion Starter #108

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Top TN contributor
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3,480 Posts
Clarification request please:

The underlined option for Monroe struts is the model ID# listed on RockAuto...but what is the OTHER option you've listed here....?

FYI....There is a rebate available now, Feb. 29 through May 31, '16 for up to $100....that's more than 25% off (better than "buy 3 get one free") of all 4 that is about $320+ shpg....good deal
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Monroe: Generally good reviews from the OESpectrum line listed below.

Front Strut Only -

Gen 5/Gen 5.5:

2002-05/2004 US and Japan Built I4, 2002-08/2003 US Built V6, and 2002-06/2003 Japan Built V6: Left - 71491 and Right - 71490

06/2004-2006 US and Japan Built I4, 09/2003-2006 US Built V6, and 07/2003-2006 Japan Built V6: Left - 72206 and Right - 72205


Rear Strut Only -

Gen 5/Gen 5.5:

2002-05/2004 US and Japan Built I4, 2002-08/2003 US Built V6, and 2002-06/2003 Japan Built V6: Left - 71493 and Right - 71492

06/2004-2006 US and Japan Built I4, 09/2003-2006 US Built V6, and 07/2003-2006 Japan Built V6: Left - 72208 and Right - 72207
 

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Super Moderator
2005 Corolla CE
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14,605 Posts
Discussion Starter #111
Clarification request please:

The underlined option for Monroe struts is the model ID# listed on RockAuto...but what is the OTHER option you've listed here....?

FYI....There is a rebate available now, Feb. 29 through May 31, '16 for up to $100....that's more than 25% off (better than "buy 3 get one free") of all 4 that is about $320+ shpg....good deal
-----------------------------------------------------
Monroe: Generally good reviews from the OESpectrum line listed below.

Front Strut Only -

Gen 5/Gen 5.5:

2002-05/2004 US and Japan Built I4, 2002-08/2003 US Built V6, and 2002-06/2003 Japan Built V6: Left - 71491 and Right - 71490

06/2004-2006 US and Japan Built I4, 09/2003-2006 US Built V6, and 07/2003-2006 Japan Built V6: Left - 72206 and Right - 72205


Rear Strut Only -

Gen 5/Gen 5.5:

2002-05/2004 US and Japan Built I4, 2002-08/2003 US Built V6, and 2002-06/2003 Japan Built V6: Left - 71493 and Right - 71492

06/2004-2006 US and Japan Built I4, 09/2003-2006 US Built V6, and 07/2003-2006 Japan Built V6: Left - 72208 and Right - 72207
I don't understand your question.

The 1st underlined option is the front for the date range listed and the second is the rear for the date range listed.
 

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Top TN contributor
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Palm slap to the head required here....I now understand that 06/2004 means JUNE, 2004....
Don't know why that eluded me....
 

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Super Moderator
2005 Corolla CE
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Discussion Starter #114

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MyBruthasKeepa
2010 Toyota Camry X
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4 Posts
Hi Ben, welcome to the site.

Quick struts are not the original, so you may not get the original ride back by going to those. Not sure what the 2010 XLE OEM strut is, but my 2009 SE strut is different than the LE/XLE variants, due to the SE. As such, if I changed those for, say, Monroe struts, I would get a different ride feel.

What prompted you to change all the struts? Just curious. Many folks at this site have indicated quick struts are not great, and inferior to what the car came with from the factory. But I am sure others have good experiences. Main thing is: OEM gives you OEM ride. Aftermarket struts will probably be different.
I went to a shop to get it inspected because i was hearing a rumbling sound and friend suggested i may need struts. So, I asked who could look at them, and was referred to a repair shop near my job. They charged me $20 to look at the car to see if they could find any problems (i didnt tell them what was needed).

After about an hour, they came back and told me i needed struts and stabilizer links in the front and back.

As far as Original toyota parts, I looked online, and the only place that receives them that I could find is a toyota dealership. The closest one to me said they wont sell them, they have to do the install.
 

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2015 4 Runner SR5
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@hardtopte72
Do you know how many motor mounts gen6 2009 camry le i4 have?
Not Hardtopte answering you here, but I can tell you that there are 4. One on each side (engine, trans), one in the front, and the "dogbone". That is if it is auto trans. I believe Hardtopte has the part numbers listed, and I think I have a thread that has the same.
 

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Registered
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Not Hardtopte answering you here, but I can tell you that there are 4. One on each side (engine, trans), one in the front, and the "dogbone". That is if it is auto trans. I believe Hardtopte has the part numbers listed, and I think I have a thread that has the same.
Thanks!!!
 

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Super Moderator
2005 Corolla CE
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Discussion Starter #120
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