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Discussion Starter #123
Added Reochem OEM Premium Extended Life Green Coolant info.
 

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Transmission Filter Discussion

Hello guys,

This is my first official post to this forum. However, I have been an admirer of the forum for years as many of the members/posts have gotten me through some DIYs on all 3 of the toyotas at my house.

I want to make this post about the various brands of transmission filters available for our camry's 5 speed auto (I wish manuals were available). The 5 speed in my camry is mated with the 3.3L 3MZ-FE motor for anyone wondering why I think a manual would be nice. Back to the question, though- out of all the brands that offer transmission filters for our car, which do you guys prefer and why? Also, is there any reason that anyone pays close to $50 dollars for the OEM filter from toyota versus the readily available wix, fram, atp, hastings, etc that can be had for around $20? From your experience, which transmission filter do you think is the best and why?

Hope to read some insightful answers.

Thanks for reading!
 

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Discussion Starter #125 (Edited)
Hello guys,

This is my first official post to this forum. However, I have been an admirer of the forum for years as many of the members/posts have gotten me through some DIYs on all 3 of the toyotas at my house.

I want to make this post about the various brands of transmission filters available for our camry's 5 speed auto (I wish manuals were available). The 5 speed in my camry is mated with the 3.3L 3MZ-FE motor for anyone wondering why I think a manual would be nice. Back to the question, though- out of all the brands that offer transmission filters for our car, which do you guys prefer and why? Also, is there any reason that anyone pays close to $50 dollars for the OEM filter from toyota versus the readily available wix, fram, atp, hastings, etc that can be had for around $20? From your experience, which transmission filter do you think is the best and why?

Hope to read some insightful answers.

Thanks for reading!
I moved your post to the maintenance thread.

As to your questions.

The OEM filter is made by Filtran. It is a very high quality filter and is basically the standard for the industry in transmission filters. I'm pretty sure that most, if not all, OEM Toyota filters are Filtran.

Everyone else either reboxes the same aftermarket filter. I have used Beck Arnley, PowerTorque, Duralast, Napa, etc. for these cars and found them to be the exact same filter in a different box. So between the aftermarket, there isn't any difference. The choice is between OEM and aftermarket.

I couldn't find a difference large enough to justify ordering the OEM filter, gasket, and o-ring separately. It's worth the risk to hit Rockauto, Advance Auto, or Amazon and get a filter in 2 days that has worked fine for every vehicle I have used them on. With that said, I have lots of good experience with Beck Arnley in pretty much everything. So I tend to stick with that brand when possible.
 

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I want to add some information I have culled from recent reading into the synthetic motor oil manufacturers' claims of cleanliness.

Some of these are quoted in the OP in this thread: e.g., Pennzoil Platinum "is dubbed as one of the cleanest oils claiming to be 8% cleaner than Mobil 1, 17% cleaner than Valvoline, and 20% cleaner than Castrol." Pennzoil product literature currently claims Platinum "keeps pistons 40% cleaner than the toughest industry standard" (footnote cite says "Based on ILSAC GF-5 and Sequence IIIG piston deposit test"); for Ultra Platinum the claim is "65% cleaner"; and in its latest magazine (sent to Preferred Customer subscribers), Amsoil now claims Signature Series oil "prevents piston deposits 93 percent better than required to meet the latest API standard" (footnote cite says "Based on independent testing of Amsoil Signature Series 5W-30, in ASTM D7320 as required by API SN specification").

The current API quality grade (SN) is partitioned into two tiers--plain-jane SN and SN Resource Conserving. The requirements for SN Resource Conserving are identical to those for ILSAC GF-5. The Sequence IIIG test is required for certification under ILSAC GF-5 and some earlier versions of the ILSAC standards, including GF-4. ASTM D7320 lays out details of the test procedure, which calls for a reference engine (currently a GM 3.8 L V6) to be charged initially with 5.5 L of the oil being tested and then run for 100 hours under conditions of heavy load and high heat: 3600 RPM, oil temperature of 155° C (310° F), coolant temperature of 115° C (240° F), load of 250 N-m. Then the engine is disassembled and oil consumption, oil viscosity increase, valve train wear, and piston deposits are measured according to a standardized protocol. The results are then compared to the pass criteria for the applicable ILSAC standard.

Weighted piston deposits (WPD) are reported according to what is called a "merit" system in the literature. The possible values, which are dimensionless, range from 0 to 10 and correspond to the surface area of the piston that is clear of deposits. A sparkling clean, brand-new piston has a WPD value of 10. The higher the weighted piston deposit value, the better.

ILSAC GF-4 required a minimum WPD of 3.5. The draft version of GF-5 called for a minimum of 5.0, but in the final version this was watered down to 4.0 because the bulk dino oil refiners (who supply the iffy-lube shops) were having difficulty meeting the higher criterion.

It is my inference that the marketing claims made by Pennzoil, Amsoil, and others are based on percentages of the ILSAC GF-5 WPD pass criterion of 4.0:

Pennzoil Platinum--"40% better"--5.6
Pennzoil Ultra Platinum--"65% better"--6.6
Amsoil Signature Series--"93% better"--7.7

There are a couple of key observations to make here. First, any motor oil with wide commercial availability, no matter how good it is, will leave piston deposits under Sequence IIIG conditions. Second, these conditions are quite extreme, corresponding to about 6000 miles of hill climbing with coolant near boilover, and are hardly ever seen in an engine with good oil temperature control (such as later versions of the 1MZ-FE with VVT-i, but perhaps not the 2007-2011 2AZ-FE with the oil consumption problem).

In my reading I found a couple of additional items. First, someone on BITOG has quoted a WPD value of 5.5 for at least one member of the Mobil 1 family. (I do not know if this comes from an authoritative source or if it refers to current Mobil 1 formulations.) Second, a biosynthetics vendor (apparently trying to break into the motor oil industry) has cited a test WPD value of 8.46 for estolides in API Group III basestocks ("surpasses the piston deposit ratings of full synthetic formulations currently available in the market").
 

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Discussion Starter #128
Major update in Engine Oils includes:

Change Pennzoil to Pennzoil Platinum
Added Pennzoil High Mileage Line
Added Pennzoil Platinum Euro, Euro Diesel, and Racing Variants
Fixed Broken Pennzoil Platinum Product Data Sheets
Fixed Outdated Pennzoil Oil Grade Information
 

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P0776 Fail on 2005 Camry XLE

I bought this car new in early 2005. It has had a shifting problem since day one but Toyota says it is "NORMAL". It always happens when slowing to about 20 mph and then reaccelerating. The car staggers and stumbles and I have to manually shift to 3rd which seems to work perfectly. I don't know if it is stuck in 4th or won't downshift to 3rd. The car has about 160k miles and runs like a top except for this ever worsening issue. Any one with a solution can make my day with a fix. The P0776 says S2 is stuck. I also need to know if I can replace the 1 solenoid or what. I am on Social Security and have 2 handicapped people in my house so there is no money for me to get someone else to fix it.
Thanks ahead of time!!!
David:frown:
 

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Discussion Starter #130
Added Valvoline Full Synthetic with Maxlife Technology to the oil section.
 

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I am really in a bind, I desperately need the part # for the front passenger turn signal bulb socket for a 2002 Toyota Camry LE... Because I found some on Amazon.com cheap, however when I use their fit check option it tells me that it will not fit...

I found two part numbers that look exactly like the part I need one part number is 90075 - 60028, I actually ordered this one already... And the other one is 90075 - 60060, yeah I used the test fit option on both of these parts and both of them said it will not fit a 2002 Toyota Camry... So I really hope someone can help me out and provide me with the correct part number. Thank you in advance
 

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Discussion Starter #134
@hardtopte72 I was wondering how you feel about the new Mobil 1™ Annual Protection Synthetic Oil, especially concerning older cars? It costs $49.99 at Walmarts.
After reading this post, I set out to do research on this oil. It's very very new and sites like bobistheoilguy had no data on the oil. I went on the Mobil 1 website and watched the propaganda video. From the video, it looks to be very good oil, as most are. Lots of points are vague and of note was the fact that they specifically pointed out good cleanliness in all 3 engines, testing for all 3 engines, and that they tore down all 3 engines, but specifically only mentioned the Lexus when talking about low/no wear in the crank and bearings. They did this is in the video and text, which sort of leads me to believe the other engines showed signs of wear, considering they made the video and weren't on a set time slot.

I was really interested in the hot oil behavior they mentioned in the shaft test, where they super heat a part and spray oil on it. Any discoloration left behind was caused by the oil burning and leaving varnish or deposits. It obviously did the best in that category, which is interesting.

As for whether I would use it, I probably would. Considering I don't do 20K per year on my vehicles, don't use a filter designed for 20K, and already see excellent cleanliness in my vehicles from use of Synthetics at half the price, I'm not a good candidate for once a year oil/oil changes.

If you do a lot of extended range driving or simply lots of driving (i.e. work in sales), then it may be a good fit. I will try to add the oil to the sticky within the next few days.
 

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After reading this post, I set out to do research on this oil. It's very very new and sites like bobistheoilguy had no data on the oil. I went on the Mobil 1 website and watched the propaganda video. From the video, it looks to be very good oil, as most are. Lots of points are vague and of note was the fact that they specifically pointed out good cleanliness in all 3 engines, testing for all 3 engines, and that they tore down all 3 engines, but specifically only mentioned the Lexus when talking about low/no wear in the crank and bearings. They did this is in the video and text, which sort of leads me to believe the other engines showed signs of wear, considering they made the video and weren't on a set time slot.

I was really interested in the hot oil behavior they mentioned in the shaft test, where they super heat a part and spray oil on it. Any discoloration left behind was caused by the oil burning and leaving varnish or deposits. It obviously did the best in that category, which is interesting.

As for whether I would use it, I probably would. Considering I don't do 20K per year on my vehicles, don't use a filter designed for 20K, and already see excellent cleanliness in my vehicles from use of Synthetics at half the price, I'm not a good candidate for once a year oil/oil changes.

If you do a lot of extended range driving or simply lots of driving (i.e. work in sales), then it may be a good fit. I will try to add the oil to the sticky within the next few days.
And concerning the filter, I went to Walmart's to get a filter for my daughter's '02 Kia Rio and the only Mobil 1 filters there were the above new filters. I'm wondering if these filters could be worthy of going through several oil changes via the oil that you currently use. In other words, you can change your oil at least 2 times in six months w/ the same filter.
And its the Mobil 1 site where I 1st seen this (looking for my daughters filter and oil). I always try to do as much of my homework as possible before coming to you experts:smile:.
 

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Discussion Starter #136
Made the following updates:

Updated Purolator Filter line to include Purolator Boss and current model names/numbers.

Updated Mobil 1 oil section to include Mobil 1 Emission System Performance and Annual Protection oils

Added a note concerning the "A" and "T" (i.e. IFR6A11 and IFR6T11) designations present on some NGK Laser Iridium Plugs.
 

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Added Gen 2 Solara info to the sticky for all sections (including suspension).

I also added a quick Generation guide at the beginning of the thread.
 

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After reading this post, I set out to do research on this oil. It's very very new and sites like bobistheoilguy had no data on the oil. I went on the Mobil 1 website and watched the propaganda video. From the video, it looks to be very good oil, as most are. Lots of points are vague and of note was the fact that they specifically pointed out good cleanliness in all 3 engines, testing for all 3 engines, and that they tore down all 3 engines, but specifically only mentioned the Lexus when talking about low/no wear in the crank and bearings. They did this is in the video and text, which sort of leads me to believe the other engines showed signs of wear, considering they made the video and weren't on a set time slot.

I was really interested in the hot oil behavior they mentioned in the shaft test, where they super heat a part and spray oil on it. Any discoloration left behind was caused by the oil burning and leaving varnish or deposits. It obviously did the best in that category, which is interesting.
The big unanswered questions for me had to do with acid buffering and TBN, since these are the real constraints on extended drain in a healthy engine that has no special lubrication issues, e.g. the 1MZ-FE V6 with all the post-2002 upgrades to improve oil temperature management, but not the 2AZ-FE oil-burner. Mobil 1 AP is clearly positioned as an Amsoil Signature Series killer but unlike Amsoil, Mobil's marketing literature does not give a maximum number of operating hours--just a maximum length of time (1 year) and a maximum mileage (20,000 miles). TBN might well hold up over 20,000 mostly highway miles accumulated over a year, but not if the 20,000 miles includes a lot of idling. As an economic proposition, extended drain is tenuous since you go into the hole on lab testing ($35/sample at Blackstone before quantity discount) to establish a robust drain interval before you start saving on a reduced per-mile oil cost.

Pennzoil Platinum is fairly typical of a budget-priced full synthetic ("Walmart synthetic") that supports reliable clean operation if changed at the factory intervals. BITOG has a thread giving results for it at about 10,000 mostly highway miles in a Toyota (Highlander, I think) with the 2GR-FE V6. Blackstone lab results showed zero shear but TBN down to 1 (the minimum acceptable value--it is widely thought that Blackstone's TBN measurements are more conservative than other labs'). This is what I rely on for a margin of error if an oil change falls due when I am hundreds of miles away from home base. (I don't use iffy-lube places or haul oil change equipment on roadtrips anymore, and don't use conventional oil at all because it shears down fast and has bottom-of-the-barrel sludge resistance.)

Returning to Mobil 1 AP, I really liked the visuals from the thin-film oxidation test too, but when the car is 500,000 miles old and looking like a junker, and the cam covers come off for the first time, does it really matter whether the lubed parts look silver or gold-colored?
 

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The big unanswered questions for me had to do with acid buffering and TBN, since these are the real constraints on extended drain in a healthy engine that has no special lubrication issues, e.g. the 1MZ-FE V6 with all the post-2002 upgrades to improve oil temperature management, but not the 2AZ-FE oil-burner. Mobil 1 AP is clearly positioned as an Amsoil Signature Series killer but unlike Amsoil, Mobil's marketing literature does not give a maximum number of operating hours--just a maximum length of time (1 year) and a maximum mileage (20,000 miles). TBN might well hold up over 20,000 mostly highway miles accumulated over a year, but not if the 20,000 miles includes a lot of idling. As an economic proposition, extended drain is tenuous since you go into the hole on lab testing ($35/sample at Blackstone before quantity discount) to establish a robust drain interval before you start saving on a reduced per-mile oil cost.

Pennzoil Platinum is fairly typical of a budget-priced full synthetic ("Walmart synthetic") that supports reliable clean operation if changed at the factory intervals. BITOG has a thread giving results for it at about 10,000 mostly highway miles in a Toyota (Highlander, I think) with the 2GR-FE V6. Blackstone lab results showed zero shear but TBN down to 1 (the minimum acceptable value--it is widely thought that Blackstone's TBN measurements are more conservative than other labs'). This is what I rely on for a margin of error if an oil change falls due when I am hundreds of miles away from home base. (I don't use iffy-lube places or haul oil change equipment on roadtrips anymore, and don't use conventional oil at all because it shears down fast and has bottom-of-the-barrel sludge resistance.)

Returning to Mobil 1 AP, I really liked the visuals from the thin-film oxidation test too, but when the car is 500,000 miles old and looking like a junker, and the cam covers come off for the first time, does it really matter whether the lubed parts look silver or gold-colored?
Little OT, but do you have a link listing the post-2002 updates to the 1MZ? Wondering because my newest one is in an '02 Sienna.
 

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Discussion Starter #140
The big unanswered questions for me had to do with acid buffering and TBN, since these are the real constraints on extended drain in a healthy engine that has no special lubrication issues, e.g. the 1MZ-FE V6 with all the post-2002 upgrades to improve oil temperature management, but not the 2AZ-FE oil-burner. Mobil 1 AP is clearly positioned as an Amsoil Signature Series killer but unlike Amsoil, Mobil's marketing literature does not give a maximum number of operating hours--just a maximum length of time (1 year) and a maximum mileage (20,000 miles). TBN might well hold up over 20,000 mostly highway miles accumulated over a year, but not if the 20,000 miles includes a lot of idling. As an economic proposition, extended drain is tenuous since you go into the hole on lab testing ($35/sample at Blackstone before quantity discount) to establish a robust drain interval before you start saving on a reduced per-mile oil cost.

Pennzoil Platinum is fairly typical of a budget-priced full synthetic ("Walmart synthetic") that supports reliable clean operation if changed at the factory intervals. BITOG has a thread giving results for it at about 10,000 mostly highway miles in a Toyota (Highlander, I think) with the 2GR-FE V6. Blackstone lab results showed zero shear but TBN down to 1 (the minimum acceptable value--it is widely thought that Blackstone's TBN measurements are more conservative than other labs'). This is what I rely on for a margin of error if an oil change falls due when I am hundreds of miles away from home base. (I don't use iffy-lube places or haul oil change equipment on roadtrips anymore, and don't use conventional oil at all because it shears down fast and has bottom-of-the-barrel sludge resistance.)

Returning to Mobil 1 AP, I really liked the visuals from the thin-film oxidation test too, but when the car is 500,000 miles old and looking like a junker, and the cam covers come off for the first time, does it really matter whether the lubed parts look silver or gold-colored?
The available Product Data Sheets were very scaled down and neither grade had a listed Viscosity Index and other data points. I was surprised I couldn't find a VOA and UOA on bobistheoilguy.
 
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